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how many bolts?

Tyquan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Jersey
How many bolts are there that hold the flywheel to the torque converter? Also how many bolts are there that hold the transmission to the engine? It's a 99 jeep cherokee sport automatic. thanks
 
Tyquan said:
How many bolts are there that hold the flywheel to the torque converter? Also how many bolts are there that hold the transmission to the engine? It's a 99 jeep cherokee sport automatic. thanks
Just to let you know someone is going to tell you the automatic version of a flywheel is a flexplate.
(4) bolts hold the flexplate to the torque converter
(2) bottom bellhousing bolts
(2) top bellhousing bolts (e12 torx head)
(2) starter bolts
(4?) 13mm bolts going through inspection cover IIRC
(2) 11mm cps bolts

Now I'm not positive if all the smaller bolts have to be removed, but I always have when separating the engine-trans just because.
 
Its hard to see how many bolts are on top of the bell housing. I know getting to them are going to be a bitch. Do you have any tips that would make it easier getting them out?
 
Tyquan said:
Its hard to see how many bolts are on top of the bell housing. I know getting to them are going to be a bitch. Do you have any tips that would make it easier getting them out?
I agree, it's damn near impossible to see them unless you really know what you're looking for. Drop the crossmember and let the whole engine and transmission tilt. That is the ONLY way to fly. That and about 2.5 feet of extensions to get to the upper ones.
 
90PioSport99 said:
I agree, it's damn near impossible to see them unless you really know what you're looking for. Drop the crossmember and let the whole engine and transmission tilt. That is the ONLY way to fly. That and about 2.5 feet of extensions to get to the upper ones.

Those upper screws should be threaded 3/8"-16 - use a nut and check. They can be replaced with regular hex heads, as long as they have the correct thread and length (since it's a 99, they may be metric - but I'm inclined to not think so.)
 
you said the two bolts on top are torx? Their not a 18mm or 17mm? What size torx are they, T40, T45 ect... Also do i really need to drop thr tranny crossmember? I really don't want to do that but if i have to i will. thanks
 
Tyquan said:
you said the two bolts on top are torx? Their not a 18mm or 17mm? What size torx are they, T40, T45 ect... Also do i really need to drop thr tranny crossmember? I really don't want to do that but if i have to i will. thanks

They are "external Torx" - instead of a socket, they've got a protruding star head. You'll want an "E12" socket to remove them - you should be able to find something like that at Sears (if they don't carry them in their Craftsman brand, you should be able to find them by Lisle tools.) A standard "Torx bit" socket will not work - wrong sex. You'll want something like this - http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=370

As I mentioned, it's a standard thread under the head, so you can replace them with standard hex head or socket head screws (or even studs, which I did.)

Lowering the crossmember will help you get access, since you'll be able to tilt the rear of the engine downwards to clear the firewall. You need not remove it (unless you're also removing the transmission,) simply unbolt the ends and have a floor jack under it to control lowering/lifting. Remove the top two screws, and then bolt the crossmember back in place - you'll be able to reach the rest of the screws without too much trouble.

N.B. There is sometimes a 'spacer plate' screwed to the back of the engine, with two tapping screws going into the bellhousing. This plate is behind the flexplate, and you will not be able to separate engine and transmission without unfastening that plate from the bellhousing! The screws have standard hex heads - 13 or 14m/m, I think (could also be 1/2", maybe 7/16". Hell, I don't remember - I didn't bother to put them back in. The bellhousing screws will also keep the thing aligned until you torque them down...
 
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