Tyquan said:
you said the two bolts on top are torx? Their not a 18mm or 17mm? What size torx are they, T40, T45 ect... Also do i really need to drop thr tranny crossmember? I really don't want to do that but if i have to i will. thanks
They are "external Torx" - instead of a socket, they've got a protruding star head. You'll want an "E12" socket to remove them - you should be able to find something like that at Sears (if they don't carry them in their Craftsman brand, you should be able to find them by Lisle tools.) A standard "Torx bit" socket
will not work - wrong sex. You'll want something like this -
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=370
As I mentioned, it's a standard thread under the head, so you can replace them with standard hex head or socket head screws (or even studs, which I did.)
Lowering the crossmember will help you get access, since you'll be able to tilt the rear of the engine downwards to clear the firewall. You need not remove it (unless you're also removing the transmission,) simply unbolt the ends and have a floor jack under it to control lowering/lifting. Remove the top two screws, and then bolt the crossmember back in place - you'll be able to reach the rest of the screws without too much trouble.
N.B. There is sometimes a 'spacer plate' screwed to the back of the engine, with two tapping screws going into the bellhousing. This plate is behind the flexplate, and you will not be able to separate engine and transmission without unfastening that plate from the bellhousing! The screws have standard hex heads - 13 or 14m/m, I think (could also be 1/2", maybe 7/16". Hell, I don't remember - I didn't bother to put them back in. The bellhousing screws will also keep the thing aligned until you torque them down...