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Fuel filter direction?

94XJ2door5speed

94XJ2door5speed

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Norwich, CT
Ok so i wanna thank everyone for there advice to my on going skipping problem. Today i was thinking back to what i did and this all started after a complete tune up. The jeep ran great before hand but with 200,000 miles i figured the factory stuff might be getting tired so i replaced it. Well the "don't fix what ain't broke" applied here but o well to late. So i remembered that when i put the new fuel filter in, it was just two barbed ends for rubber hose and no arrow showing fuel direction. Could i have installed it backwards causing it to work harder to pass fuel? Also it was running good but when i pulled the cap, the rotor was bent up at a 45 degree angle and it had chewed through the plastic aroung the electrodes and wasn't actually firing to them but through the plastic. What would cause this to happen?
 
there should be "in" or "out" on one end of the filter, as to the rotor issue you may not have put in on all the way, or like I did on a dakota one time I installed the cap 180 deg's ( it will bolt up but will cause it to sit off center and thr rotor will hit the sides and FUBAR happens
 
iirc, the fuel filter has two different size nipples on it, a 3/8" and a 5/16". you'd have to really work at it to install it backwards. on the other issue, most likely either the cap or rotor weren't seated properly.
 
Ok well the not seated properly issue wasn't me it was the previous owner i had never touched it until i did the tune up, that is when i discovered it, just odd it actually ran better than way then now. And i tried it both ways with the fuel filter and it slid on easy both ways.
 
Ten High said:
iirc, the fuel filter has two different size nipples on it, a 3/8" and a 5/16". you'd have to really work at it to install it backwards. on the other issue, most likely either the cap or rotor weren't seated properly.
Click to expand...
FWIW, I can confirm that the 87 models have two different barb sizes on the fuel filter, so if you install it backwards its very likely to leak on the loose side. Not likely it was installed backwards if the 94 is the same as the 87.

Just curious, but was it the new Cap & Rotor or the old cap and rotor that was fubard?

Edit: never mind I see you just posted the answer, so that is very interesting that it ran better that way, any pictures????
 
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No the cap is back in CT and my Tech buddy and Hotrodder neighbor that has worked on cars longer than i have been alive don't understand it at all. O and checked for play on the rotor shaft, its solid so its not wandering.
 
that's really odd. both my '87 and the '96 had two different size nipples, but i used a mopar replacement filter on both. maybe the aftermarket's are 3/8" on both ends?
 
Ok people are gonna get sick of me so i'm not starting a new thread. I crawled under the jeep today its 15 degrees out and snowing ripped the f****** rubber slash shield out and noticed my O2 sensor plug had been crushed due to me over flexing my stock suspension to the point the front diff yoke hit the down pipe and dented it. Anyways checked the plug it was fint the metal craddle protected it. Bent it away from the block and unplugged it. Check engine light came on and the motor still skipped. This makes sense to me cause the computer doesn't know whats goin on. I then replugged it in, it ran great for 2 miles then began to skip again. Is this my solution a new O2 sensor? So sick of throwing money at this getting nowhere fast.
 
Not necessarily, search for testing an o2 sensor.

The crimp in your downpipe may be the stock one. I can't physically see what you saw, but the factory downpipes did in fact have a crimp built in to them for clearance issues at stock height.
 
I've replaced fuel filters on my 90 & 91, both fuel filters had diff. size hose barbs.
I know that Fram (yuck) has two diff. size barbs and I just checked the shop and I have a Wix and a Purolator, same thing plus both of these have an arrow to show flow direction.
 
Check the distributor shaft for alignment, is it bent? And check the dizzy shaft bearing for any play that might allow the rotor to wobble thus contacting the cap. Did some of the worn cap & rotor plastic and metal drop down into the dizzy synch sensor....???? etc.
 
Ecomike said:
Check the distributor shaft for alignment, is it bent? And check the dizzy shaft bearing for any play that might allow the rotor to wobble thus contacting the cap. Did some of the worn cap & rotor plastic and metal drop down into the dizzy synch sensor....???? etc.
Click to expand...

Nope checked it today all is well with the new one. I learned though that an O2 does nothing till it gets to operating temp, oddly enough my skip only starts when the motor gets up to temp. huh may be it is the problem after all.
 
if that connector actually got "crushed" it could be your issue. i had a toasted 02 sensor (melted harness) that caused a weird rich misfire only after the jeep reached operating temp and entered closed loop. i never had the mil light come on at all.
 
Ten High said:
if that connector actually got "crushed" it could be your issue. i had a toasted 02 sensor (melted harness) that caused a weird rich misfire only after the jeep reached operating temp and entered closed loop. i never had the mil light come on at all.
Click to expand...

Yea i got no check engine light and the skip is at the mid rpm range but it wont skip at WOT or idle.
 
94XJ2door5speed said:
Yea i got no check engine light and the skip is at the mid rpm range but it wont skip at WOT or idle.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a bad TPS, very typical bad TPS. If the problem is still there after disconnecting the O2 sensor, it can not be the O2 sensor, as the computer will stay in open loop and ignor a missing O2 sensor, but it could be a loose O2 sensor connector, dirty connection, or an O2 sensor wiring harness wire to the ECU going bad.
 
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