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np231 won't go back into 2wd without issues

3

330LICIOUS

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NorCal
i have D30 front and 8.25 rear with AA SYE installed for about 10k miles now. i've never driven it in 4Hi for normal driving conditions (e.g. turning on pavement). i've actually only engaged it into 4Hi on several muddy occasions. i don't even think the t/case has seen over 1 mile in 4Hi.

when i am in 4Hi and push the lever back down to 2wd, it won't disengage (the part-time light turns off though). from what i've tested while driving on pavement going straight, it'll go back to 2wd after driving for maybe 1/4mile, or when i drive far enough to reach speeds of +35mph. in this scenario, it goes back into 2wd with a big THUMP, as if someone took a bat to the t/case.

the other way it'll disengage is if i stop, put the tranny in reverse, drive in reverse for a short distance of just 10 feet or so, then put it back into drive. (i don't want to have to keep using this method all the time)

have you guys experienced this or know what the issue may be?
 
Last edited:
my np 242 will usually go into 2wd if i let on the gas for a second, but sometimes I need to do the stop reverse trick
 
330LICIOUS said:
i have D30 front and 8.25 rear with AA SYE installed for about 10k miles now. i've never driven it in 4Hi for normal driving conditions (e.g. turning on pavement). i've actually only engaged it into 4Hi on several muddy occasions. i don't even think the t/case has seen over 1 mile in 4Hi.

when i am in 4Hi and push the lever back down to 2wd, it won't disengage (the part-time light turns off though). from what i've tested while driving on pavement going straight, it'll go back to 2wd after driving for maybe 1/4mile, or when i drive far enough to reach speeds of +35mph. in this scenario, it goes back into 2wd with a big THUMP, as if someone took a bat to the t/case.

the other way it'll disengage is if i stop, put the tranny in reverse, drive in reverse for a short distance of just 10 feet or so, then put it back into drive. (i don't want to have to keep using this method all the time)

have you guys experienced this or know what the issue may be?
Click to expand...


The backup method is generaly the method your SUPPOSED TO DO... its the most effective... another thing you can do is tighten your linkage up, especially if you have a TC drop on... that may help... but reverse is the ticket most of the time.
 
ZacSquatch said:
The backup method is generaly the method your SUPPOSED TO DO... its the most effective... another thing you can do is tighten your linkage up, especially if you have a TC drop on... that may help... but reverse is the ticket most of the time.
Click to expand...

tighten up the linkage meaning how? i dont have a t/c drop, i actually have the TNT belly pan, which gives an extra 1" of clearance. but i'm not sure if that means it's just 1" thinner, or it actually pushes the t/c up 1".

also, i've tried the letting off the gas method, it doesn't work for me.
 
There is an adjuster block in the linkage. You need to free up the bolt that locks the sliding linkage. You may be able to break it free and tap back and forth on the block to get it to slide on the rod. Don't break the bolt off. You may need to disassemble it and heat it up. Your shift lever is probably hitting the front of the slot before it completely disengages 4 high. You need to adjust the rod so that it has a little space at the front when your in 2 high. You should be able to go back and forth between 2 and 4 high with out any tricks. If any of the bushings are worn or broken it wont work well. If it has too much slop in it you cant adjust it properly. This kit is $20.00 from the dealer.






DSC00366.jpg
 
has the little rod that the linkage connects to and sits in the rubber bushing on the side of the TC come out of the rubber bushing? I spent a good hour or so winding up the transmission when it got stuck in 4WD part time.
 
i never noticed any linkage or rod. i'll go under there and take a look. it is inside the transfer case where i'd have to take the cover off? or is it accessible from the outside?
 
Mine usually takes a whack of the throttle to pop out.
 
lube the linkage with some pb blaster.
 
Heres what I do. Works everytime. While still in 4hi put it in reverse. back up a tiny bit and (while still in reverse) shift into 2wd. Then put the shifter from reverse into neutral, and you'll here a little click, when it actuates back to 2wd. I've had to do it on every jeep that been through the family.
 
What's kind of funny, or weird--not sure which, is that I only have to do this with full time on my 242. I've never even heard it click into or out of part time, even though I know it's engaged or not.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
Heres what I do. Works everytime. While still in 4hi put it in reverse. back up a tiny bit and (while still in reverse) shift into 2wd. Then put the shifter from reverse into neutral, and you'll here a little click, when it actuates back to 2wd. I've had to do it on every jeep that been through the family.
Click to expand...

yes, this works... but i don't want to have to do this everytime, and some times i can't back up (if i'm on icey conditions on the road, i can't reverse). just wanted to see if there's another solution besides the reverse method.
 
Mine also switched better when I went from ATF to 10/30 motor oil in the t-case. Its also quiter when its in 4-low.

A local 4wd shop recomended this as well as overfilling it 1qt. Its tough to overfill it but the swap to the motor oil seems to be working great. Glas this thread came up its about time to change it lol.
 
BlueCuda said:
Mine also switched better when I went from ATF to 10/30 motor oil in the t-case. Its also quiter when its in 4-low.

A local 4wd shop recomended this as well as overfilling it 1qt. Its tough to overfill it but the swap to the motor oil seems to be working great. Glas this thread came up its about time to change it lol.
Click to expand...

You'd have to take the tcase out, set it on the ground with the fill hole facing up and then fill it that way I assume?

Sounds like a PITA. Interesting note with the 10/30 though. Mine whines in 4lo. Not a big deal but....now that you mention it..
 
That's what he said.

You know, the transfer case just needs a lubricant. No friction modifiers or clutches in the transfer case requiring Dexron like the AW4 does.

So I could see it possible.
 
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