• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

t&t long arm question....

V

v dub krazy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
stockton
hi everyone... i'm going looking at buying the t&t lift i'm just not sure on what size to buy... they make either the 5.5 or 7.5.... can you guys give me an idea and what size tires to run... thanks, dustin
 
welcome to NAXJA. Try searching around a little on here, youll find A LOT about TnT and their products....

but remember, the bigger tires you run the more modifications you have to do. with the 5.5" you should be able to fit 33s no problem and 35s with some fender trimming. but once you looking at that big of tires, your stock axles (at least the rear) is gonna have to go...

your also going to have to address steering issues once you go with that big of a lift, not to mention an SYE, and CV driveshaft...

just search around theres A LOT more to a lift then just a lift.

good luck...
 
5.5 defiently. you can run anything if you trim but I would reccomend going with 33's. You are going to need to regear your differentials to run any decent sized tires. And anything over 33's will most likely take larger axles, unless you have the 35 rear then your going to need a new axle if your running over 31's.

Do some searching and you will be able to figure it out.

-Alex
 
5.5 keeps the center of gravity down. Some like 4.5 and cut more to keep the cog down. I went 5.5 tnt long arm, 33x12.50 mtr's, 4:56/arb's in both. It accelerates good, its not bad on gas. It spins just a little faster then stock but thats good because of the extra weight its carrying. Its not a race car but it will still get up and go. I drive 60 on the fway. I consider that its a modified vehicle and drive it that way. Just like adjusting for the weather conditions. Going through the mountains will dog it way down but ya cant have everything. Its a 6, not a v8. :) I need a cruise control now, it sucks without it.
 
i decided to run 6.5"s. i sourced my own coils (RK 6.5") and ran their OTK steering and trac bar, truss, etc. then for the rear i ran 3.5" RE springs, 1.5" Shackles, and 1" UBEs that = 6.0" and then i got an extra .5" outta my 8.8". Im planning on running 35/12.50/15s on this setup.
 
if i run 33s what do you recomend for gearing? and i want to run a locker in the back and an air locker up front kuz i don't want it locked all the time.... would that work?? an sugestions? thanks, dustin
 
v dub krazy said:
if i run 33s what do you recomend for gearing? and i want to run a locker in the back and an air locker up front kuz i don't want it locked all the time.... would that work?? an sugestions? thanks, dustin
Click to expand...
what year and rear are you running?

I have a full carrier detroit in the back and love it, waiting to install the ARB up front.....
 
i would swap both axles!!! your front is a LP (low Pinion) dana 30, and your rear is a dana 35. i would find a 97 to 99 with a high pinion and 29spline 8.25". or a rear dana 44 out of a OLDER (late 80's with a tow pkg)
 
depends on the rear...if its a c8.25 it has 29 splines which is good....the front yes..it has the HP D30 with the x297 which is the best flavor of the D30
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

E
Steering Redo.... Questions before I dive in.
2
Replies
28
Views
1K
RCP Phx
R
M
Test fitting RC 4.5" long arm on 2000 XJ
Replies
10
Views
4K
RCP Phx
R
H
Wondering what Axles for build
2
Replies
29
Views
7K
RCP Phx
R
K
How does backspacing affect handling? 3.75 vs 4.5 backspacing for 31 x 10's?
Replies
11
Views
4K
XJEEPER
XJEEPER
K
Shop rebuilt front differential failed on first test drive, trying to figure out why?
Replies
4
Views
3K
xcm
xcm
Back
Top