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THOR side panel armor write up

53guy

NAXJA Forum User
Location
EnTransit
After much delay I have finally installed my THOR side panel armor and feel that it is definately worth a write up. The fit is exellent, the material is quality, very impressed overall with the product. Anyhow, here it goes.

First off, contact T&A-XJ here on Naxja and purchase yourself a set. He has a few styles so keep that in mind when asking for them. I'm sure he can set them up any way you'd like, but I got mine standard with two holes for a brake light and another for either a turn signal or a back up light. The holes came in a 6" Oval and a 2" circle, so order your lights accordingly. I went with 6" Red LED oval's in the stop, turn, tail light flavor and a set of amber 2" 9 bulb LED for the turn signal.

This is what they look like from T&A

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They come with hex bolts, but I needed longer bolts because of body damage that I had, so I went to the hardware store and purchased phillips head 1" and 2" stainless steel bolts to replace the hex style.

I chose to paint mine flat black, but you can paint them any style you'd like. Its a good idea to paint them before you install them on your Jeep because once they are bolted up, you'll probably not want to remove them as some of the bolts are a pain to get to. Also, when painted, you'll have less of a chance of trapping rust between the armor and the body panel...always a good idea to reduce the rustage.

Step 1.

Assemble all the tools you'll need for the project, make sure you have enough of everything so you don't have to rush back to the hardware store for anything, grab a beverage of your choice and go at it. Here's a list of what you'll need. (note: some installations may be different in the tools you'll need, what you may or may not have to remove, and what style bolts you decide to use. This is on a '99 XJ so your tools and parts may be different)

-THOR guards
-Gloves
-safety glasses
-a drill
-1/4" drill bit
-a punch
-a ratchet strap
-1/4" wratchet with a 4" extension and a 10mm socket
-either a hex driver if you're using the supplied bolts or a screw driver if you use a different style bolt
-a wratchet wrench (or a standard wrench) and a socket for the size nut you'll be using (mine were 7/16")
-a 10mm wratchet wrench or deep well socket
-the supplied bolts and washers or you own hardware
-RTV in your choice of color
-LED's for the turn signals and brake lights
-waterproof, shrink wrapped butt splices
-a razor blade
-wire cutters/strippers
-electrical tape
-a heat source
-a wratchet strap

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Step 2-

Remove the tail lights by removing the three 10mm bolts that secure the lense to the body.

Step 2b-

Remove the light bulbs from the lense by turning them about a 1/4 turn until they pop out. Clip the wires from the bulb leaving about an inch between the cut and the bulb just incase you decide later on to get cold feet and put the stock stuff back on, you'll be able to splice the bulbs back in. When you clip the wires off, make sure you mark the wires and seperate them so that you know what wires go where....ie, bundle and mark the red bulb, the the amber, then the back up light.

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Step 3-

Remove the fender flares if they are still installed. You'll do this by using the 10 MM wratchet wrench or deep well socket and removing the nuts that hold the bolt strip and flare on.

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Step 4-

With the tail light housings removed and the flares removed you can now begin to mark the holes for the armor. Do this by having a friend hold the armor up as you take a sip of your drink and admire how awesome this armor is going to look on your Jeep. Then grab one or two of the 10mm bolts for the tail lights and install them hand tight. Don't tighten them down yet because you'll still need to move the armor around to line it up with the body lines. Grab your wratchet strap and strap the armor from the door latch to the tail light hole and pull it tight. Tighten until you are happy with the placement of the armor on the Jeep. On the drivers side, mind the gas tank door. You'll want to make sure the door is centered in the hole in the armor so it will open properly. Its a good idea to open and shut the door a few times to make sure you got it right.

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Do this to both sides.

Step 5-

With your punch, mark the center of all the holes so that your drill bit does not wander when drilling the holes.

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Once all your holes are center punched, its time to drill them. Its a good idea to remove the interior panels now and make sure you don't drill into any wires or lines, but I didn't and didn't run into any issues that I know of yet.

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Step 6-

With all your holes drilled, remove the armor and finish paint the panels to your desired color.
 
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Step 7-

While the panels are drying, now is a good time to splice the wires into your LED harnesses. Its a good idea to take a look at you Factory Service Manual to make sure you use the correct wires, but my wires didn't match my FSM, so I had to guess.

I decided to wire the turn signal first because it only had two wires. This picture is backwards, but it didn't matter for the turn signal, so from the jeep, green with red is the power, black is the ground. I wasn't paying attention to the harness, but the white wire is ground and had a eye connector on it for a ground bolt that I cut off so I could butt splice them in. First, strip about 1/4 to 1/2" of insulation off of all the wires that you intend to splice. Then slide the butt splices onto the wires and crimp the side that has the wire in it. With the harness connceted to the light, begin by placing the wires where you think they should go (black is ground, green is turn signal/power) and test. If the signal works as required, install the wires from the harness into the butt splices and crimp them. Be carefull with this next step so you don't burn you wires, but heat up the splices until the shrink wrap shrinks and you smell a weird hot glue smell coming from the splices. This lets you know that you've shrink wrapped the splice and the hot glue has melted inside the splice to create a water tight splice. Test the turn signal once more to make sure they still work.

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and shrink wrapped..
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Next move onto the Stop/Turn/Tail light; this is slightly more complicated, but not by much. Depending on how you set it up, you can use this light for a turn signal as well as a stop light. Be sure to consult your local laws to make sure you can use one light for all three. Because I am using the other light as a turn signal, I decided to just wire it as a stop and tail light. Begin like you did before by stripping 1/4-1/2" of insultion from the wires. Crimp the butt splices onto the wires like you did for the turn signal. With the harness hooked up to the light, again test the different functions that the light will be used for.....for me, I needed to press the brake pedal, turn the head lights on, then press the pedal again. For this it ended up being a white, a brown and a black wire. I had to guess here again because my FSM wasn't right with the wire colors, but it ended up being ground was black, white went to the red wire, and brown went to the black wire. I had to swap the red and the black wires once to get them right, but it took two minutes of testing to figure it out because I hadn't crimped the harness end yet.

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If you decide you need it, wrap the wires in electrical tape and you're done wiring...



A side note here that will be important. LED lights require and electronic signal from the flasher switch instead of the stock thermal flasher. This is because the LED's don't pull enough current to heat up the thermal flasher enough to make it work. You'll know you have a thermal flaher is your turn signal is flashing rapidly. This is a functiom of the turn signal to indicate that you have a burn out bulb in the turn signal....ie, not enough power is being used when the turn signal is on. You can easily find this flasher module at any auto parts store and it should be less than $7 bucks in the same section as fuses. You'll need to take your old flasher so you know how many prongs it is and what electronic flasher you'll need.

Another issue I had was that when my trailer harness was hooked up by the "pro's" at the trailer place when I first got my XJ, they screwed up the install and forgot a ground. Because of this, I had a ghost signal whenever I pressed my brakes or turned my turn signal on. The signals would do weird things like flash both flashers, one brighter than the other, when the brakes were pressed, all the lights would come on to include the turn signals, ect. If you have this issue, I suggest removing the harness and trying it without. That solved my problems and I didn't have to chase that ground wire all over the place. Upon removing the harness I found the ground that was not installed, but because I don't tow with my XJ, the harness went into the trash.


Step 8-


Now that you're done with the electrical stuff, its time to fix your body damage. Start by cleaning the sides of the Jeep with some windex or 409, just something to get the grime off so you can see what's rusted and what's not. I took a bad line a while back and slid into a nasty tree that smashed the passanger side pretty good. Its a good idea to punch out what you can from the inside of the Jeep, but because I can only reach so much I'm going to use the bolts and washers to pull the panel the rest of the way out. Because I had waited so long to fix the side, rust had set in and I needed to sand down to bare metal to get it all out. With the rust out and everything sanded smooth, it looked like this. Throw a bit of primer over it and paint it the color of your body. If you're lucky, the armor will cover the blemish and you wont need to do a great job of painting.

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Step 9-

Now its time to install the armor. The first thing you want to do is put RTV on either the panel or on the Jeep. I chose to put it on the Jeep because I knew I'd be moving the armor around some and I wanted the most sealant to be on the edges of the panel. Do this so that you won't get water pooling between the panel and the Jeep. Make sure to get around the gas tank door cut out and around the THOR letters. I also sanded a bit where I intended to put the RTV so it had something to stick to other than smooth paint.

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Next, begin by placing the armor onto the Jeep like you did when you marked the holes, and install the two 10mm bolts and the ratchet strap. When your drilled holes line up with your holes in the armor, place the counter sunk bolts into the holes. I used the long bolts I purchased on my passanger side where there was the most body damage and there was plenty of threads left to pull the panel out. Next remove the interior panels if you haven't already done so. This will require a phillips head screw driver and a bit of force.

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On the drivers side there is a brace that you may or may not have to remove (its the brace that you can see where my air tank bolts are sticking out of). I have pretty large hands and forearms and could not reach the bolts to install the nuts and washers, so either remove it or have your favorite female helper with tiny hands and arms put the nuts and washers onto those bolts.

Install all the washers and nylock nuts onto the bolts hand tight or until you can't get them on any farther (usually at the nylock part) and begin tightening them down one at a time. Its best to start at the top rear and work forwards and down, but I don't imagine that it'll really matter as long as you've got the panel lined up and the holes drilled correctly. Because I purchased my own bolts, I made sure I could use my drill to tighten them down and it made short work of all the bolts. If you didn't do that or you don't have a hex driver for your drill, you may be at this for a while. When all the bolts are tightend, remove the ratchet strap and tighten the two 10mm bolts. Make sure that the armor lines up where you want it to and that your gas tank door opens and closes as required. When you tighten the panel down all the way, RTV should ooze from the edges of the panel. Wet a finger with Windex or 409 and run it along the edge to smooth out the RTV. The windex helps it not stick to your fingers. I'd also suggest filling in the letters on the passanger side with RTV so that water doesn't get in there as well.

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Step 10-

Now that your panels are installed, it is time to install the lights. Insert the grommets into the cutouts and pull the wires through so that you can hook them up to the lights.

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Its also a good idea to gob up the connectors with trailer connector grease or dielectric grease to seal out water.

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Once all the wires are pulled through and lights are connected, push the lights in until they seat in the grommets. Have your helper retest the lights to make sure they work. Reinstall any interior that you removed.
 
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Step 11-

This part is totally up to you; reinstall the flares. You may or may not have to trim the flares and you may or may not need to redrill holes depending on if you moved your flares at all. I had moved my flares up and forwards about an inch and I didn't have any issues and didn't need to trim the flare at all to fit the armor.

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A few Notes

-Make sure that if you are using LED's that they are DOT approved and say on the light somewhere on the lense DOT. Most states require this.
-Check your local laws on LED's and side marker lights, some states are different than others. In VA, it is not required to have a side marker light or have your tail light or turn signal be visible from the side....only visible from the rear is required.
-Some states require back up lights. VA only inspects them if you have them, they're not a requirement. I plan on installing some into my bumper in the near future.
-Make sure to get grommet LED's, not flanged LED's. The holes are cut out for grommets and may not fit the flanged ones.
-Make sure to change your flasher to an electronic flasher if you use LED's.
-Make sure that you use WATERPROOF connectors on your wires as they will be open to the elements now. If you don't, you're only asking for trouble.
-I used a tube of RTV PER SIDE, so you'll need two tubes.


Overall, this is a very simple project to do and can be done in an afternoon. I'd suggest a helper, but it can be done by yourself if needs be. Beer and pizza are great lures of jeepers and they will catch at least one every time. I have yet to test the armor, but have no doubt that they will hold up to abuse for a while.

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Very very very nice

I have been wanting a set of these for a long time, and NEVER knew how to order them. do they have a 2 door version for 84-96 cherokees? (only difference would be the cut for the rear door)

also, What rear bumper is that?

-Tim
 
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jeepnuts311 said:
Very very very nice

I have been wanting a set of these for a long time, and NEVER knew how to order them.

also, What rear bumper is that?

-Tim


Its a Rigid Co rear bumper set up for a tire carrier, but I'm taking the carrier off. Tired of that damned sail of a tire on the back like it had been for a while.
 
jeepnuts311 said:
Very very very nice

I have been wanting a set of these for a long time, and NEVER knew how to order them. do they have a 2 door version for 84-96 cherokees? (only difference would be the cut for the rear door)

also, What rear bumper is that?

-Tim
Its is the same for the 2-doors( i have a 2-door). just cut that front tip off straight.

Sean
 
90exjay said:
Its is the same for the 2-doors( i have a 2-door). just cut that front tip off straight.

Sean


Not sure, best to ask T&A and see if it is or not. Never took any measurments of a two door. I have a feeling though that it's too short for a two door.
 
53guy said:
Not sure, best to ask T&A and see if it is or not. Never took any measurments of a two door. I have a feeling though that it's too short for a two door.
Both are the same. T&A XJ (aka Tim) just updated his site, http://www.thor4x4.com, so take a look. The White 2-dr in the pics on his page are of my rig.

-----Matt-----
 
SOUTHTEXASXJ said:
where did you get the LED you used?


I got all my stuff from http://www.superbrightleds.com/truck_lights.htm
They were great, had my stuff in less than a week around Christmas time. Might be able to find stuff cheaper if you are willing to look, but that was the average price for stuff, so I didn't mind, especially knowing that everything they sold was DOT approved. Here's my shopping list if you were interested:


2 PT series Truck Light $ 19.95 each, Red PT-R56 total: $ 39.90
2 PL-3x Plug $ 1.49 each, Straight PL-3S total: $ 2.98
2 GR-65 Grommet $ 1.49 each, total: $ 2.98
2 M5 series LED Marker Lamp $ 6.29 each, Amber M5-A9 w/o Flange, total: $ 12.58
2 GR-20 Grommet $ 1.49 each, total $ 2.98
2 PL-2S Plug $ 0.95 each, total: $ 1.90



Subtotal: $ 63.32
Shipping: $ 5.00
Grand Total: $ 68.32
 
are those street legal? I thought you had to be able to see tail lights from the side, maybe just cali?
 
oo7ravisXJ said:
are those street legal? I thought you had to be able to see tail lights from the side, maybe just cali?

Some places will get you on the non-reflective part, but you can buy some reflective tape and just stick a little on the side or back.

Sean
 
oo7ravisXJ said:
are those street legal? I thought you had to be able to see tail lights from the side, maybe just cali?

Legal in VA. Lights only need to be visible from the rear. Check your local laws.
 
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