Why not JK Rubicon front 44?

Looking into upgrading my front axle and possibly building up a 70's ford HP D44. Recently I have seen some stuff on the JK Rubicon D44 and it seems to be an awesome axle.

Advantages:
-Full high pinion D44 (unlike older rubi axles with 30 outers)
-Factory electric locker
-30 spline inner shafts
-32 spline outer shafts

Disadvantages:
-General consensus is not bolt in...oh well, if you're building up a front 44 theres no bolt in anyways. Cut off the mounts and build or buy a bracket kit or TNT truss.
-Slightly wider 61.9 WMS...sounds like a good width to me. Throw on some adapters on the rear to match width and 5 on 5 bolt pattern. I'd have to buy new wheels if I built up a front ford 44 anyways (5 on 5.5)

Price is 1500...comes complete with locker. Add on TNT truss or bracket kit and 225 for new gears (if needed) and buy/build some 1 ton steering...done.
Seems to be quite a bit cheaper then building up a Ford HP44. My shopping netted me with about 3000 dollars in just parts, let alone finding the axle, prepping it, narrowing it, and dealing with rebuilding an old axle (seals, etc.)

Thoughts, opinions?

This is tempting. Trying to make the same decision myself.
Can't forget the high steer arms
Large double piston calipers. Should be Akebonos (sp??)

why stop there?

go for the rear too while your at it, i would.

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/axles-complete-rear-dana-axle-assemblies-c-800_871.html
:wave:

A matching set would be sweet. What kind of electric locker do they use? Auburn ected? other?

I´m very interested in that topic. Got a somewhat built 8.8 in the rear, so only the front axle would be interesting.

• Are there any exact figures how much wider that new axle is?
• Could I just use the T&T conversion kit (http://www.tntcustoms.com/webV5/Dana44Swap.asp) or are there any things different between the D44s ?
• What do I need to operate the JK locker? Just some power and a switch or is there any special electronic involved?

BlueGerbil said:

I´m very interested in that topic. Got a somewhat built 8.8 in the rear, so only the front axle would be interesting.

• Are there any exact figures how much wider that new axle is?
• Could I just use the T&T conversion kit (http://www.tntcustoms.com/webV5/Dana44Swap.asp) or are there any things different between the D44s ?
• What do I need to operate the JK locker? Just some power and a switch or is there any special electronic involved?

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I think the axle is right about 5" wider with overall track width. I was under the impression it was less, but...

Wondering the same thing with the TNT kit.

I'm pretty sure all you need is a seperate switch and a power/negative to activate the locker. I'm sure there is two more wires down there, but for an indicator light in the cab on the rubicons. You could hook it up this way if you wanted.

here is a thread about someone swapping front and rear into his tj...he's still in the process though...
http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863249

isnt there some wierd speed controls on the jk front axle?

I believe the rubicons will only lock in low range. Don't know if you wired them with 12 volts is all it would take?

It's just a wiring thing which you wouldn't be using anyway.

The JK HP44 electric locker is an odd ball. It takes an intermintant varried pulse generated by the pcm. It is not a specific voltage, and it is not something that could be duplicated by having someone on pass side flipping a switch on and off. The carrier and gears have a differant bolt pattern and size as well. There are no locker/carrier options out that will match bolt pattern and size. So there is no replacing the electric locker with like an ox or aub. The only thing I could think of is getting a locker, drilling out the bolt holes for the ring gear. And no carrier/locker would fit as a bolt in on the center section alone. So far the only way to get it to work would be to pull the pcm out of the rubi as well. Already had this talk with a shop tech. Now 5" wider, realy. @ 61.9" and the front axle is wider on stock xj then the rear, and my xjd44 is 60 3/4". Only if 5" is this long ___

Well I'm sure the aftermarket will have all the lockers, limited slips and other upgrades they have for existing axles out soon. I'm thinking about going this route too, some day.

praetorian said:

Well I'm sure the aftermarket will have all the lockers, limited slips and other upgrades they have for existing axles out soon. I'm thinking about going this route too, some day.

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I'm looking on almost a daily basis for a 44 for the front. I got a xjd44 rear, and rk 8" super plus and a set of eagle usa rims (@5 on 4.5). I don't want to gold plate my hpd/turdy. I don't want the locking hub hanging out the center of my rim. I have an old 295amp buzz box and the selector is broken, and an angle grinder. Not a weldor. The rims came from my best friends jeep. I had stock with brand new meat, and he had bald tires. He wanted to go on a wheeling trip with his jeep, mine had a whole in block and busted rod. We went, he died on trip from an 80' fall while hiking. I kept the rims, dealer got the jeep back with my stock rims. Building up jeep in his honor, how do I get a d44 on front, using the rims I have, and not having to buy a shop and take classes for fab work? One day I will find something. And I want it to be a HP44 not a lp44.

mikeNtucson said:

I'm looking on almost a daily basis for a 44 for the front. I got a xjd44 rear, and rk 8" super plus and a set of eagle usa rims (@5 on 4.5). I don't want to gold plate my hpd/turdy. I don't want the locking hub hanging out the center of my rim. I have an old 295amp buzz box and the selector is broken, and an angle grinder. Not a weldor. The rims came from my best friends jeep. I had stock with brand new meat, and he had bald tires. He wanted to go on a wheeling trip with his jeep, mine had a whole in block and busted rod. We went, he died on trip from an 80' fall while hiking. I kept the rims, dealer got the jeep back with my stock rims. Building up jeep in his honor, how do I get a d44 on front, using the rims I have, and not having to buy a shop and take classes for fab work? One day I will find something. And I want it to be a HP44 not a lp44.

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The only way I know of is to narrow a HP D44 as needed and use '75-'79 dodge knuckle, hubs and brakes they have a 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern.

They aren't known for being very strong. The hub bearings fail pretty easy, but that was on a 1/2 ton truck with a built 360 and 15X10 rims with 33's.
That is the only D44 that has the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern that I know of. They don't have lockouts.

I've seen posts of putting 44 knuckles and outers on a 30 and putting the 30 knuckles and outers on a modified 44. But puts me back into the "not a weldor, don't have shop equipment" catigory. My best bet so far would be finding a 44 that someone has built for their xj, and swapping in a 60. Had a chance to get a '79.5 44 out of a bronco, but to do it ment cutting down to waggy width and using waggy shafts, but the drivers side of the 44 was already like 1 3/4" narrower than the waggy. Arn't the lp44 rubi axles just a 44 center with 30 tubes and knuckles? If so, couldn't I just press the 30 tubes into like a dodge 44 center? With the rk kit, only need uca mount on center section. And I can have a shop do the press.

The Dodge parts are as strong as the D30 parts and have way better brakes. They can also be swapped out at a later time for the 5x5.5, 5x5.5 an the 8x6.5 patterns. This will make the axle mor valuable if you ever sold it.

If you plan on using D30 ends you might as well keep the D30...

TNT said:

They aren't known for being very strong. The hub bearings fail pretty easy, but that was on a 1/2 ton truck with a built 360 and 15X10 rims with 33's.

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With a modified 4.0, 15x8 and 36-37" tire, what would be my weak point?

Axles/u-joints and hub bearings.

With a D30 they would be axles/u-joints,unit bearings, brakes, R&P strength, housing strength and ball jounts.

Heres some guy that swaped them in front and rear http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=866339