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Newbie with Question

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Siren ,WI (NW)
Hello all I am new to this forum and my first post is a long one but here goes.................OK i've made up my mind i think, i am planning on doing a s-10 bastard pack but i have a few questions. keep in mind that my xj is a daily driver and it will only see mild trails, mud, and maybe some mild rocks, i also plan on driving very long distances.I have read a few write ups but did not get the info I was looking for. so my main question is, will it work? ok
1. how many or what placement for a good hight for 33s?
2. will it effect my highway/interastate driving with rear sway removed or not?
3. will i need a sye?
4. will i need any kind of a wedge to change my pinion angle?
any other info would be much appreciated thanks
 
1.may have to experiment with the amount of leaves from the s-10 pack. to clear 33's, you will need atleast 4" and will need to trim fenders unless you add longer bumpstops. what are you going to do about the front?
2. no need for rear sway bar. 33's will kill the performance of the 4.0 engine unless you regear.
3.SYE, maybe
4.wedge/shim, most likely.
 
1 I don't know about that

2 No I can't tell any differance at all without the rear swaybar

3 If you want to run33's you'll need 4.5 of lift with fendertrimming and more without. SO yes SYE or at very least Transfer case drop. Tyr that fist as it itt is much cheaper and every jeep is differant. Mine has 4.5 with no SYE my buddy went 3 and had to have it. Also you'll want a wheel with 3.5-4 in backspaceing (not stock)

4 ya a wedge shim. Not sure what angle search on here you'll find that I did but have since forgot.

GOOD LUCK
 
i do plan on doing a t-case drop.
the front i will get lift spings and spacers if needed.
my main cocern is bastard pack vs highway interstate and tire rubbing

with the correct bumpstop length and the correct rim backpacing, you should not rub. if you rub, than you will need to trim the fenders. 33's are bigger than the wheel well openings so if you have any up travel, they may rub, unless you trim.

bastard pack or new packs, lift is lift and what determines if they will rub is how much you lift, rim backspacing, bumpstops, tire size
 
89xj said:
with the correct bumpstop length and the correct rim backpacing, you should not rub. if you rub, than you will need to trim the fenders. 33's are bigger than the wheel well openings so if you have any up travel, they may rub, unless you trim.

bastard pack or new packs, lift is lift and what determines if they will rub is how much you lift, rim backspacing, bumpstops, tire size
x2:woohoo:
 
go with a 3" in and 31's.
that might sound biased because it's what my setup is, but its good for DD. I think once you get bigger than 3 or 3.5" you have to do ALOT more stuff= SYE, gears, rear axle angles, stuff up front with steering, GAS MILEAGE. From what I've seen a 3 with 31's can do alot of stuff, even better with lockers, if you've got the budget for that.:firedevil
 
some thoughs, would this be a good setup?

Rusty's 4.5 cront coils
Rusty's adjustable trac bar
Extendes brake lines
4.5 leaf pack or Bastard pack
T-case drop
33's or maybe 35's with some trimming
shackles
shocks
homwbrew disconnects

What else would i need to complete this lift? if i need lca's i was just thinking about making them. would i nedd uca's?
 
You will need LCA's and most people say people will say @4.5 you need Drop brackets or Long arms. I didn't do it but can really tell the diffeance in ride. Also with 33's or 35's you'll want to regear if you do a lot of highway driving. For power and Fuel milage. I only get about 12-13 MPG with 33's and stock gears(3:55)
 
Ok..

You don't need that much lift with 33s and proper trimming and bumpstopping.

I would get the rubicon express 3.5 inch with the full pack. Trim, tcase drop . 4.56 gears are a must. What rear axle do you have? Start asking the more important questions. 33s put alot of strain on the drivetrain, especially if you have a Dana 35 say hello to expl0d.

anywho wow its late.

night
 
A much better ride!!!
 
so what does it do for a better ride
It returns the angle of the control arm to the stock position (close anyway) parallel to the ground. In turn makes the springs and shocks take the bumps instead of the bushings on the control arms.

By the way if you search and spend sometime reading on this site you'll learn all this for yourself. It has been covered dozens of time in the last year or so.
 
oh ok i will do some searching again i did some but didnt find the specific info i was looking for.
thank you
I wasn't trying to be rude. We are all here to help eachother and to learn. But most of the info we have was learned here. At least in my case.
Keep asking questions.:laugh3:
 
If you go with a 4.5 inch lift, forget the extended brake lines, put that $$ into something else like a locker. The stock steel brakelines bend down plenty far to clear the travel. I'm running the 4.5 inch Rusty's lift and have never needed them.

I have an older model '88 so i did not need the SYE kit, but i did drop the t-case an inch, i believe you should be fine with that.

As far as tires, I am running 33's with the 3.55 gears, and it's a dog on hills man. I might consider going with the 31's for a bit until you can get the 4.56 gear ratio that is correct for that size tire. 31's are SURPRISINGLY good on the trail, look decent on the Jeep and you won't have to fender trim. Besides, they are cheaper LOL. Good luck man, I hope all goes well!
 
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