2X4 rock rails

jeeperjohn · Jan 7, 2008

I made a pair of rock rails for a fellow Socal Jeeper this weekend and I thought I would share some pics. The first step was cutting out the rocker panels.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0016.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0010.jpg
Applying a little rustproofing inside where the rocker panels were.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0019.jpg
Test fitting.

Next came tack welding the rail in place.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0021.jpg
A little detail of the taper at the end of the rails.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0025.jpg
Lots and lots of welding.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0024.jpg
Fabbing up a filler piece for the end of the rail opening.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0026.jpg
The end result, a rail that can take anything you can dish out!

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa231/jeeperjohn/DSCF0028.jpg

IntrepidXJ · Jan 7, 2008

jeeperjohn said:
The end result, a rail that can take anything you can dish out!

if it's not tied into the framerail or a cage, a few hard hits and that rail will be pushing up into the bottom of your doors....

fubar XJ · Jan 7, 2008

Looks pretty sweet. A long tube with support tubes between the ends welded on to the outer edges of that would make a great tree-pivot.

jeeperjohn · Jan 7, 2008

IntrepidXJ said:
if it's not tied into the framerail or a cage, a few hard hits and that rail will be pushing up into the bottom of your doors....

I have a weaker 2X2 rail on mine and have slammed it as hard as you can imagine with no movement at all. The rail is fully perimeter welded to the pinch seam and at the top. The force of an impact is evenly spread out over 56" of metal at the top and the bottom. I can assure you these rails will not bend up.

IntrepidXJ · Jan 7, 2008

jeeperjohn said:
I have a weaker 2X2 rail on mine and have slammed it as hard as you can imagine with no movement at all. The rail is fully perimeter welded to the pinch seam and at the top. The force of an impact is evenly spread out over 56" of metal at the top and the bottom. I can assure you these rails will not bend up.

well, maybe your definition of a 'hard hit' is different than mine. my rails were welded the same way, and attached to an internal cage, and I hit them so hard a number of times they pushed upwards (luckily I didn't run any doors) and buckled the floor and pushed inwards, too

red_01_xj · Jan 7, 2008

i have done mine the same way....i will eventually be adding some tie ins to the frame, how do you recomend doing it without making them drag points

jeeperjohn · Jan 7, 2008

IntrepidXJ said:
well, maybe your definition of a 'hard hit' is different than mine. my rails were welded the same way, and attached to an internal cage, and I hit them so hard a number of times they pushed upwards (luckily I didn't run any doors) and buckled the floor and pushed inwards, too

I think the amount of force you had applied to your was well outside what most guys who are not running some sort of rock buggy will experience. I am not saying that the rails cannot be bent, just that 99.9% of people will never bash them hard enough to bend them up.

IntrepidXJ · Jan 7, 2008

jeeperjohn said:
I am not saying that the rails cannot be bent, just that 99.9% of people will never bash them hard enough to bend them up.

it's not the rails that bent, it's the sheet metal they are welded to that gives

clunk · Jan 7, 2008

This is my next "major" mod, I'm planning on using 2x6x3/16 so they stick out further than the doors and offer a good deal more protection. I'm planning on drilling holes through the pinch weld to do some plug welds (are these also called rosette welds?). I have been doing alot of researching, this thread will go in my bookmarks for even more reference. Thanks!

Metal Thrasher · Jan 7, 2008

Defenitely the way to go. 2 questions:
1. why 2" x 4"
2. Did you weld a 2 x2 on top to fill / brace to the top of the rocker / door sill?

jeeperjohn · Jan 8, 2008

Metal Thrasher said:
Defenitely the way to go. 2 questions:
1. why 2" x 4"

I used 2x4 because the guy I did them for didn't want them to stick out much beyond where the stock rocker panel was and the 2x4 butts up against the pinch seam.

Metal Thrasher said:
2. Did you weld a 2 x2 on top to fill / brace to the top of the rocker / door sill?

When I referred to 2x2, I was referring to my rig and I used 2x2 because I am poor and that's what I had. I will be replacing them on my rig with 2x6 soon.

swbooking · Jan 8, 2008

Looks good John! Nice work, kinda makes me wish i would have replaced my rocker panel as well...

jeeperjohn · Jan 8, 2008

Thanks Allen, I am eager to do some more of these for Socal folks.

swbooking · Jan 8, 2008

I have a couple friends with XJs maybe on the next rockers we do we could hang out and you could show us the steps. My little bros ZJ will be needing rails soon

jwtrapper · Jan 8, 2008

Is there a reason why you did not go through the fenders as well?

xjtrailrider · Jan 9, 2008

Nice work! I built my own last spring but went under the rockers and bolted to the pinch seam then 3 legs back to the frame strengtheners. My next trail rig that I'm planning is going to get 2x6 recessed and legged for more clearance and strength. I like the sliders to stick out some so I can pivot on a tree or rock.

Here are mine, for now, but this XJ is going back to stock in a month or so. I'm picking another one up to beat on and build up. I'm dropping this one down and giving it too my kid.

Finished product;

ColoradoRaptor · Jan 9, 2008

jwtrapper said:
Is there a reason why you did not go through the fenders as well?

X2

OLAK · Jan 9, 2008

Nice job. very similar to what we did a couple years ago http://monkeycage.island4x4.com/showthread.php?t=27431 I ran the 2x4 tube right to the end of the fenders, it involves some butchery to the bottom of the fenders tho. around here you need protection from trees, and the 2x4 doesn't provide enough to prevent caving the doors in, so I added on the 1.75" runners to them. have come down hard in a ditch almost on its side, and was able to power out without body damage or damage to the sliders

over2land · Jan 9, 2008

X3 on the fenders thing.

John- how bout a PM with a price estimate?

I've been between this and bolt on rails for my 98 XJ, the main thing keeping me from doing this is fear of cutting the hell outta the rockers.

But, like I say, X3 on the fenders thing... I'd want em to go from one cut fenderwell to the other.

jwtrapper · Jan 9, 2008

ColoradoRaptor said:
X2

This is the first thing we need to do with that new welder and plasma cutter. Lets try it out on yours first. :cheers:

2X4 rock rails

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