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Check my Steering Geometry?

StylerG

StylerG

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oklahoma City
Can you guys check on my steering geometry, i have an RE 3.5 sitting exactly at 4 inches. Seems to be off in the front end (meaning loose, almost like a bumpsteer), considering drop brackets or the JCR steering, but from what i see, my steering geometry looks pretty good and my jeep should be riding great...ive searched for a couple of months and havent really found an answer (not my dd) and finally thought i would ask!
Jeep is a 2000 and has...
RE 3.5 full leafs, spacers in front even 4"
RE HD Trac bar and Mount
plus all the fun stuff that i doesn't relate to this at all
Thanks!
DSC00506.jpg
 
seems to really be attracted to bumps, steering wheel doesnt re-center very well, its like a mix of bump-steer and a jeep thats out of alignment
i cant figure it out, because during the process ive checked the alignment, its fine, steering wheel is centered when parked and with only 4" of lift i wouldnt think my control arm angles are that bad
 
how long have you had the lift installed?

did it just start happening?

did you get an alignment recently (after the lift was installed)?
 
what's your caster angle? Looks like you're running stock UCA's. I just lifted my MJ about 5", and had to go to adjustables to get the caster back, and be able to put the front DS in. Tried it with 1" longer fixed LCA's and stock uppers, and the pinion angle was not happy at all, nor the caster.

Jeff
 
id love to tell you the caster, but im a few hours away from it right now. From yuccaman's website my lower control arms should be 16.33 inches, the RE fixed ones i have are 16 eye to eye and i put a .25 inch alignment shim in, it also says my uppers are fine at 15" stock.
The lift has been on over a year now, just dont drive it much and have been continually tracking this problem down..hence the HD trac bar and mount.
 
only reason I bring it up is by eyeballing your pic, your knuckles look as rotated as mine were. I'm running just about the exact same setup as you (right down to the JKS discos even). If you weren't running the TB drop bracket, you would have geometry issues.

Mine tracked straight like that, and had a tiny bit of bumpsteer, but the return to center was fine. My big problem was the driveshaft, though.

Jeff
 
Your steering geometry is off some. The draglink is on a steeper angle then the trackbar. A ZJ pitman arm would correct this.

I would also replace the axle control arm bushings and get some adjustable UCA's. It looks like your passenger side UCA is bent... Then make sure your alignment is is perfect.

On a side note you might want check to see if your shocks bottom out before the bumpstops hit. I would thing you should have about 2" bumpstop extentions. This will prevent you from destroying the shocks.
 
I think his steering geometry is just fine. you dont compensate for the bend in the track bar - you go from mount point to mount point, and if you draw a line there, its damn near perfect....
 
thanks for the help guys!
zj pitman arm is the first ive heard about going that route on a rig that is lifted at my height...is that a 1" drop? that would seem too much
So no need for the drop brackets and JCR 1-ton steering??
 
JNickel101 said:
I think his steering geometry is just fine. you dont compensate for the bend in the track bar - you go from mount point to mount point, and if you draw a line there, its damn near perfect....
Click to expand...

I was gonna say the same thing. Put a straightedge up intersecting both mount points on the TB, and it's dead-nuts parallel to the DL.
 
I just checked it and you are correct it is almost perfect. From what I have seen the HD trackbar lowers the pivot point about 1" which is why I suggested the 3/4" drop ZJ pitman arm. It was early and I didn't take it to paint to check it...

The upper control arm bushings are probably original and the adjustable UCA's will replace the bent UCA also allowing for any needed caster adjustment. Worn upper control arm bushings deflect under load. This and the alignment could cause most of his problems.
 
I'd check caster and toe. Move them to the high end of the factory prescribed range if it isn't there already. Take it for a spin and see how it goes.

I hate Y links. The drag to the driver's side should be parallel to the ground to minimize undesired deflection with wheel bump/jounce.
 
TNT said:
I just checked it and you are correct it is almost perfect. From what I have seen the HD trackbar lowers the pivot point about 1" which is why I suggested the 3/4" drop ZJ pitman arm. It was early and I didn't take it to paint to check it...

The upper control arm bushings are probably original and the adjustable UCA's will replace the bent UCA also allowing for any needed caster adjustment. Worn upper control arm bushings deflect under load. This and the alignment could cause most of his problems.
Click to expand...
The RE bracket DOES NOT have any drop to it,the centerline of the joint is the same as the centerline of a factory bracket a tre!
 
How are the TREs on the draglink and tierod?

A lot of my front end slopiness cleared up when I replaced worn out TREs
 
ive been told by a mechanic that the front end checks out to be in great shape, one of my first thoughts in this whole process was to overhaul the front with all new stuff....but didnt want to go down that route if not necessary. From the sounds of things, i just need to go ahead and do that.
It also sounds like at minimum i need some adjustable upper control arms, if i want to improve the ride drastically ill order some drop brackets. One thing at a time, if that doesnt work....ill be asking some more and looking into the JCR steering!
Does that sound like a great plan? On the front if i go to replacing the TRE's and ball joints, is it worth the money to go ahead and upgrade to the JCR setup? Do i need to look at replacing anything else, such as hubs with 225,000 miles? I really like the if its not broke dont fix it idea
 
All new steering runs about $200.

JCR is about $230.


Don't trust a mechanic that everything is ok, though. Everyone has their own view of 'ok', and what is 'ok' on a 87 ford escort is not going to be 'ok' on a lifted xj.. more modified = tighter tolerances.

I have a VERY strong steering setup, but I still end up replacing all of my tie rod ends at least twice a year because I start to get a little bit of play, and with 35x12.5 tires, that gets exaggerated on the freeway really quickly.

Lifetime warantee replacement at autozone is great. Takes me 30 minutes to overhaul the front end and costs me a 15 minute drive to the parts house.
 
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