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ROFL for blocks!

KI4KWF

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alabama
got a closer look under my uncle's xj today, the rear has blocks that were probably 2.5"-3". The leaves were practically flat!
rough country shocks, spacers up front, new LCA's, and non-quick sway bar links.
just had to say this, cause i think its gonna be funny in a few thousand miles when his springs are all curved. :eek:
oh, and his rear sway bar is still in place, so i already have better flex than him. :clap:
 
the springs may or may not have problems. blocks will give you more problems the larger they are.The rear sway bar is a myth in my opinion.youdo not need it but it is a skinny little thing. When my rear bar was disconnected I got less than 3/8" more flex.
 
i have heard on here that blocks are bad if they're bigger than 1-1 1/2". i was expecting this one to be that way, but i looked and WOW that things 2 or 3 inches!
:doh:
 
I ran 3 inch blocks on my 89, I added a full length aal, and another stock spring for over a year, no problems whatsoever.
My bro ran 2.5 inch blocks on a stock pack and buggered it fast!!!
 
we sut up my buddies jeep with a 5 inch block and each leaf pack was doubled with another set of leafs giving him about 9 inches of lift and he doesn't have much problems with axle wrap
 
I've run 1.5" solid steel blocks and RE 4.5" spring packs for 2 years with no problems, and have a 2" set ready to go in when I do my D44 swap.I know Goatman ran blocks taller than mine at the BOTW runs as did Porchpuppy.The key is we all run ladder bars.

original.jpg
 
cloudswimmer said:
I've run 1.5" solid steel blocks and RE 4.5" spring packs for 2 years with no problems, and have a 2" set ready to go in when I do my D44 swap.I know Goatman ran blocks taller than mine at the BOTW runs as did Porchpuppy.The key is we all run ladder bars.

original.jpg
Where did you buy your 1.5" solid steel blocks? I cant seem to find any website that offers them. The reason i ask is because im trying to fit 35's without trimming anymore on my RE4.5 w/ full packs, and already have longer shackles. Thanks- Travis

BTW, your pm inbox is full
 
I have some for sale. slightly used. from RRO...

DCP_0842.jpg
 
cloudswimmer said:
I've run 1.5" solid steel blocks and RE 4.5" spring packs for 2 years with no problems, and have a 2" set ready to go in when I do my D44 swap.I know Goatman ran blocks taller than mine at the BOTW runs as did Porchpuppy.The key is we all run ladder bars.

original.jpg

What's up with your e-brake cable...?
 
OK...
since I've seen that blocks are relatively OK under 2"...
I want to add about another inch lift on mine, since it seems i can do it on a budget using blocks and spacers.
Does the size of the block correspond to the actual amount of lift or is it different? > 1"block= 1"of lift, or 2" block=1"lift? I didnt know because I'm kinda confused on how the geometry would work out with the axles and leaves and whatnot.
 
KI4KWF said:
OK...
since I've seen that blocks are relatively OK under 2"...
I want to add about another inch lift on mine, since it seems i can do it on a budget using blocks and spacers.
Does the size of the block correspond to the actual amount of lift or is it different? > 1"block= 1"of lift, or 2" block=1"lift? I didnt know because I'm kinda confused on how the geometry would work out with the axles and leaves and whatnot.

A 1" block lifts you 1", a 2" block lifts you 2", etc.But a word of caution, a traction bar is highly recommended if you are going to offroad the vehicle with the blocks.I watched my RE springs start to wrap while spotting by bro in my rig with the 1.5" blocks.After that run I installed a modified Sam's Offroad ladder bar and now wrap is not an issue, but its not a budget lift anymore either :)
 
i don't do much offroading. the only real flex it sees outside the driveway is water bars on logging roads, that don't limit it out. would even this be a need for a traction bar?
 
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