Portland, OR - R&P Assistance

[Strictly.Offroad]

Hey guys, I've been searching for awhile, one for time and two for a book to show me how to set them up properly, I haven't has much luck so I turn to people I know, know jeeps. I want to learn how to properly set up gears. I've blown up two R&P's in the past 8 months, so I think its about time for me to learn to fix it my self. I'm swapping my tcase this saturday and I'd like to have matching gears by Spring time. I bought a set of 3.55 GG with a master install kit. Are there any good "How to's" available or a shop that would allow me to watch while they put the gears in? Or is there any local jeepers that would be willing to teach me to set up gears in my 8.25 that is out of my rig? Any and all help would be awesome. I'm not entirely stupid about things but, I could definatly use some assistance with some things. I am slightly new to jeeping and the whole 4x4 community.

[WheelinJR]

Mistake #1 - Buying Genuine Gear. I assume that's what you're referring to by GG. They're known to have manufacturing flaws and often come warped right out of the box. Also I've been told by a few locals that they're a terrible pain in the ass to get set up properly.

If you're getting tired of swapping out gears, I wouldn't be installing that R&P.

[Strictly.Offroad]

Okay good advice. I just saw on Craigs List a 8.25 29 spline with a factory lsd and 3.55s for $150 so I am thinking of just picking that one up and it will give me the right gears and a limited slip where I am currently running open diffs front and rear now. Good Idea?

[DrSockMonkey]

This is for a D44 but still good place to start. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90711

[2xtreme]

Okay good advice. I just saw on Craigs List a 8.25 29 spline with a factory lsd and 3.55s for $150 so I am thinking of just picking that one up and it will give me the right gears and a limited slip where I am currently running open diffs front and rear now. Good Idea?

Excellent choice and price. Very good axle will work well for you up to 35" tires.

Not certain if you want the LSD in that axle though? Does it make it more difficult to add a full locker later?
Michael

[WheelinJR]

Not certain if you want the LSD in that axle though? Does it make it more difficult to add a full locker later?
Michael

IIRC correctly, the carrier won't be lunchbox locker compatible.

But a new carrier, or any locker that replaces the carrier will work.

[fubar XJ]

Excellent choice and price. Very good axle will work well for you up to 35" tires.

Not certain if you want the LSD in that axle though? Does it make it more difficult to add a full locker later?
Michael

Why go with the factory 3.55 gear ratio? No plans for bigger tires? Rule of thumb, factory LSD = no to limited options for lunchbox lockers. IIRC, the Powertrax No-Slip makes one for LSD carriers, not sure about any others. Any full-case locker (Detroit, ARB, etc) will require re-setting the R&P.

[Blkxjkrawler]

IIRC correctly, the carrier won't be lunchbox locker compatible.

But a new carrier, or any locker that replaces the carrier will work.

I have a No Slip in a 29 spline LSD carrier in the rear of mine, but the ONLY option for a lunchbox locker is the No Slip.
-Ryan

[Ba-Riedo]

Wait the powertrax is considered a lunchbox? I thought it was like a detriot.

-Alex

[Strictly.Offroad]

Should I just be looking for a D44 and just be done with it? I'm running a d30 with 355s up front and a 8.25 with 307s in the back. I can't go wheeling, because of the huge diff in gearing, with out tearing apart the tcase.

[CanMan]

Id snag up the 8.25, wheel on it for a while, save for a gear'd and lock'd D44, resell the 8.25 for around the same price you bought it for, and be done with it.

[Strictly.Offroad]

I have one 8.25 with 307 gears, one 8.25 with no gears installed and a set of Genuine Gear 355 gears to put into the empty housing. I have one offer to buy a 8.25 with 355s for $100 and a offer for an 8.25 with 355s and a factory lsd for $150. What would be my best option: regear, drive in 2WD until I can afford a d44, Buy the non locked 8.25, or buy the locked 8.25?

[CanMan]

Buy the one with more splines, and the LSD. Better resale, IMO.

But if you already have gears, install them in the housing with no gears, find a used locker, or weld it for the time being.

Either way will work. Its just up to you, the amount of work you want to do.

[Strictly.Offroad]

Thanks guys!

[2xtreme]

If it were me, I would buy the 8.25 with LSD and 29 spline (it will work great up to 35's and you could lock it later if you want to.

Sell everything else and keep it till you NEED something larger or want a project ;)

It would help us if we know what size tires you are running and what your plans (now and future) included also.

Michael

[Strictly.Offroad]

I'm running 31x10.5x15 right now with a 3.5" rough country lift. I want to eventually have a 5.5" RE or TNT LA lift. and run 33" tires. I will be running this set up as a DD until I need can pay down my Tahoe enough to finance another DD. Once I have a real DD then I want to do a wagoneer/f250 D44/D60 swap and 35" and make it a trail rig for fun. I saw this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505981 and wanted to replicate it. I want to make a reliable rig that can take me pretty much where ever I want to go. Any and all help would be useful!

[WaXJ_Skier]

I'm running 31x10.5x15 right now with a 3.5" rough country lift. I want to eventually have a 5.5" RE or TNT LA lift. and run 33" tires. I will be running this set up as a DD until I need can pay down my Tahoe enough to finance another DD. Once I have a real DD then I want to do a wagoneer/f250 D44/D60 swap and 35" and make it a trail rig for fun. I saw this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505981 and wanted to replicate it. I want to make a reliable rig that can take me pretty much where ever I want to go. Any and all help would be useful!

I would do gears before going any higher, you can run 33's with the amount of lift you have.

[Strictly.Offroad]

The reason I'm running 31's is becasue I still want significant flex with the weak stock parts. The 31's rub like crazy when wheeling and turning. They hit the LCAs and the rear body even though i cut away most of the rear fender. I am running about 5" between the fender and the tire in the front and about 2" in the rear. I have a aal in the back with 2" blocks. I know my rear leafs are Arched the wrong way and I have to replace those too. I was thinking procomp 3.5" packs. Check out my pics on myspace. myspace.com/69camaross

The one in the background is what I hope to have my XJ looking like when I am done with my mods.

[mojojojo]

damn! now thats a write up. i'm no welder, but those are some of the purdiest welds i've ever seen!

i don't usually get involved in the high tech stuff, but my take is there is a huge difference between http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505981

and

what yur talking about with a 8.25. my advice....and trust me i've screwed up enough to know $$$$......is save up do it 1 time correctly. if you want to build a monster down the road, start saving and building now. it'll be 10 X's cheaper in the long run.

[Strictly.Offroad]

I dont know if this will work but:

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Okay so embeded HTML doesnt work.

[WaXJ_Skier]

I dont know if this will work but:

:REMOVED:

Okay so embeded HTML doesnt work.

you need to use PHP tags IIRC

[Strictly.Offroad]

I'd love to but as my rig sits right now Its not even driveable. I have to rely on my wife to take me to work and she has to wait for me to be picked up after she gets off. Now thats love.

I need a temperary axle so I can drive my rig and not have to rely on my lovely wife.

After this is fixed I'd like to start building my extreme rig.

[WaXJ_Skier]

I'd love to but as my rig sits right now Its not even driveable. I have to rely on my wife to take me to work and she has to wait for me to be picked up after she gets off. Now thats love.

I need a temperary axle so I can drive my rig and not have to rely on my lovely wife.

After this is fixed I'd like to start building my extreme rig.

you can drive it with different gearing as long as you don't put it in 4wd. I ran 4.10 in front and 3.55 in the back for two months before I got my gearing taken care of.

[mojojojo]

i've got a 35 with 3.55's and LSD for sale. bolts right up.....just ask Joe. :gag:

[WaXJ_Skier]

i've got a 35 with 3.55's and LSD for sale. bolts right up.....just ask Joe. :gag:

See my previous post.

[Strictly.Offroad]

I would like to play in the snow and at wagon wheel OHV park when it opens back up in the spring time. Im not going to be doing any extreme rock crawling or hill climbs but I do enjoy dicking around.

Do you prefer a 231 or 242 tcase. I bought a 231 to replace my 242 but i like the ft 4wd option with my 242. How ever I blew up my 242 a couple of weeks ago and its been sitting at my mother inlaws house since.

I have the 231 rebuilt and have a h&T from RE in my garage, I am thinking of ordering a RE dshaft to eliminate my dshaft vibes. If not I can still use my existing dshaft. since id be dropping like 200 for the shaft now then in a year or so drop another 200 for a new one for my new lift and axles.

is the 242 or the 231 tcase a better case to use. Right now I do all mild wheeling and lots of street driving. Once I get the rest of the parts together I will be driving my rig to the parks/ trails and back. thats about as much street driving that that truck will see. big question then 242 or 231?

[WaXJ_Skier]

go for the 231 since you have it. The DS isn't a bad idea, when you go bigger you can get it lengthened instead of buying a new one.

[2xtreme]

Get the 9.25 with 3.55's and use it till you swap for the Ford stuff.

Either the 231 or 242 are both great TC's. They both have their addvantages and disadvantages but both will work just fine behind what you have planned. 231 has a 4:1 kit and better SYE's, 242 has full time 4wd.

Michael