Is there ever too much?

So i am talking about suspension travel. Long arm kits awesome! but when is a long arm too long? Im not talking about kits you buy online like rusty's or TnT customs, i'm talking custom i am in an advanced chassie and frame fabrication class where i have to build a link system of some sort and i want to make my own three think system on both front and rear. So what is to much? If i have to put limiting straps in is that to much, i mean i only want 7" of lift with 35's and to cut all the sheetmetal i have to(less sheet metal=less rockrash). Coils only go so far then they fall out and ive seen it done on simple aftermarket kits. In theory they would meet at the center of the jeep and be equal lengths for the front and rear for max articulation. Most kits are at the crossmember is that the universal mount and a good place to start or is shorter better? This is a very opinionated question but i hope that some advanced fabricators can share some insight. I like the high clearance, long wheelbase, low center of gravity rock crawling rigs with full belly skid plates and thats what im going for. Also a NP231 doubler is in the works right now, shop tools and materials on the schools dollar, possibilities are endless!

As far as suspension travel, for the most part once the coil unloads, further droop will do you no good.

I run 6.5" of lift (5.5" coils and the upper half of an acos with a rubber isolator) with drop brackets. I have 7" of uptravel and 5" of downtravel with 35's. When my shock maxes droop I can just fit a finger above the coil.

As far as length of the arms go, longer probably is better but theres a point where its no longer practical. That would be a question for the advanced fab forum probably.

It said i am not allowed to post there and this will be a DD so i like your numbers, i have the skills, tools, time, and know how to build my own lift i can't bring myself to spend $2,000 on a lift that is only part of the equation and i know i can build it for less.

Yes, to post there you need to be a forum supporter or member. Its not that expensive and well worth it (both in keeping the site running financially and some people will take you more serious as a supporter).

I don't think I've seen a lift kit that costs that much money. By all means build your own kit, but before you do, go and look at the Rubicon Express 5.5" kit's enclosed parts list. Make sure that in your project you address everything in that list - they put it there for a reason.

cool thanks for the advice i really like TnT customs setup with the stock upper mounts meeting the lower bar solving axle roll issues and the upper tracbar centers the axle, very simple very easy to adjust castor and really efficient

research Radius arms, tnt didn't invent it. Track bar centers the axle

Yes, there are a lot of good setups. TNT's Y-link is my favorite radius arm setup. I also like the RK 3-link but not on a daily driver. I run the RE drop brackets as it was the natural progression from a 4" short arm lift - and it has treated me so freaking well that I'm not ready to give it up.

Drop brackets, for what the the control arms? i just know my buddy has a 5.5" RE short arm and when he hits a rock to crawl up the jeep crawls up first then the axle follows the rear wheels push the axle further back because of the severe angle of the LCA'S, not good

94XJ2door5speed said:

cool thanks for the advice i really like TnT customs setup with the stock upper mounts meeting the lower bar solving axle roll issues and the upper tracbar centers the axle, very simple very easy to adjust castor and really efficient

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Thats funny as sh!t.No stand back for a year or 2.You might even want to crawl under your Jeep and see how it "actually" works!!

Im running the T&T Y-link set up. It is a very good set up, its held up to everything ive thrown at it. My only complaints are, #1. the high clearance is too high and leaves your drive shaft exposed to rocks. #2. the geometry of long arms causes the Jeep to dive pretty badly in the front.


You can make long arms pretty long, but there comes a point where you have nothing to attach them to, and too much stuff obstructing the long arms travel. Making the arms themselves longer after a point becomes unnecessary and causes more problems. I have seen scissor links and thats bad ass, but you have to have a custom chassis for that.

Why, might I ask, does a long arm set-up cause a Jeep to drive badly in the front? Can't say that I hear that very much...?

He said DIVE,

lowrange2 said:

Why, might I ask, does a long arm set-up cause a Jeep to drive badly in the front? Can't say that I hear that very much...?

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You need some sleep

damn! I do need some sleep. lol

Take a look through this...it has all the dimensions and specs for my current suspension setup. I have more vertical (down)travel at the wheels than is healthy for most people.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=630589&highlight=suspension+design

Then realize:

1) Arm length and suspension travel are NOT directly related.

1.5) Radius arms are their own little subset of real suspension design.

2) Unseated coils are not bad.

3) Knowing what you want from your suspension is KEY.

I can elaborate tomorrow if you want, when it's not 1:27 in the morning.

That is a trick setup, the CAD is cool your jeep is way more overboard than i want, well actually exactly what i would want for a dedicated trail rig but the suspension is sweet i had a different idea for the three link but yours works real good so thanks for the visual!