Which fuses for disabling ABS?

I just swapped a C8.25" in in place of a D35 in my '99. I need to kill my ABS but which fuses/relays do I need to pull? I know that fuse #25 in the passenger kick panel is for ABS, but it serves some other things also from what I've read, so I am assuming the crap I need to pull out is underhood.

Its all underhood. There is a black box near your battery. Pull off the cover and remove the ABS fuses and relays. Use the underside of the cover for a reference.

Wow, thanks I am an IDIOT, when I opened the black box earlier this morning I didn't even look on the underside of the cover, haha. I've bled my brakes several times today and they are still mushy, maybe I will try it again after it quits raining again....

I did this on my 2000, same axle swap. I do have a FSM and as my buddy pointed out while we were doing mine, to blead an ABS system, you HAVE to cycle the ABS pump and solenoids using a Factory Diagnostic Unit (i.e. Dealer Only). Without doing this, you will never get the brakes bled correctly and they will always feel mushy, no matter how much fluid you bleed through.

I ended up pulling the ABS pump, made some new lines with a Tee splicing the front two lines together and over to the prop valve and modifying the rear line from the prop valve to go directly to the M/C. Not too hard to do but you better be very good at doing inverted flaire lines in the car. You can get non ABS front lines from the dealer and only modify the rear but I couldn't figure out how to get the old lines out and new ones in with the engine in the Jeep.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

I just recently stripped the ABS from my 97. I replaced the proportioning valve from a non-ABS XJ, then cut, bent and reflared the existing brake lines to fit the new proportioning valve. The tools (tubing cutter, flare tool) are readily available in any parts store. Make sure you get the line nuts with the proportioning valve since they are different.

It's not too bad of a job. I have a mityvac, so bleeding was easy. I didn't like the braking performance I got with just disabling the ABS. It never felt like I had full brakes and were hard to lock up. Now it feels normal. Plus, you save about 20 lbs by removing all the ABS stuff. Good luck.

Or the el cheapo ABS bleed method. Find a dirt road and repeatedly stand on the brakes to get the ABS to cycle. At least that's what worked on my 93 ZJ. :}

I pulled only the ABS system relay, left the ABS pump relay in. WJ brakes up front, D44 drums out back, stops fine. Been bleeding them regularly

ABS hydraulic unit bleed is only necessary if you've been working upstream of it, such as replacing the brake master cyl or the ABS unit itself. Anything downstream like rear brakes has no effect.

I tried bleeding them again and no luck so I disconnected the rear brakes and plugged the line and now my pedal feels fine. Maybe I need a wheel cylinder in the rear.

That or your rear brakes are not adjusted properly :thumbup:

lawsoncl said:

Or the el cheapo ABS bleed method. Find a dirt road and repeatedly stand on the brakes to get the ABS to cycle. At least that's what worked on my 93 ZJ. :}

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That only works IF you have all the sensors connected. Since the 8.25 does not have any ABS hookups, there is no way to make this work as the ABS computer will detect the missing sensors and go into a failed mode.