1998 opinions

I was hoping 98 owners would give me thir reviews on that year. The one I am hoping to look at is a 6cyl auto loaded Black in color with 95k on it. Don't have picks but it sounds good. Jeepkid91 is my son and he has a 95 XJ that he will be driving in June. My fun vehicle is a 77 J10 pickup. Thanks for any opinions as always!

i love my 98 except for the door hinges, its gunna be a lil harder to take the doors off this summer. other than that its pretty much what i wanted.

Is yours loaded and auto trans?

Now, I might be talkin outta my ass here... but here goes

Pros:
-Good head on the motor, IIRC, the 99 and up head is prone to cracking
-better door hinge design- less prone to sagging
-high pinion non-CAD front 30 with the bigger 297 style joints
-29 spline 8.25 rear
-if its like the TJ (I dunno yet), the 97s were shit for wiring harnesses... seems chrysler was still trying to figure it out or something
-metal hatch instead of fiberglass
-redesigned interior
-no vent windows- get a normal size roll down and harder to break in
-shares more interior molds with later ones... between my 97 and 98, there are a few (albeit slightly) different interior trim pieces
-bigger sideview mirrors
-better HVAC (compared to the earlier models I've owned)

Cons-
-didn't get the high flow intake of the 99 and up
-manual trans is an AX15... not 3550 like later
-light grey interior (personally, I'd much rather the darker one of later years)
-no power/leather/(to my knowledge) heated seat options
-uncomfortable front seats (as compared the upper level seats of 96 and earlier years)
-airbag module under driver seat which can result in premature airbag deployment and/or airbag light coming on in the dash (I think they changed this in 99= check if there is a recall for the 98 you are looking at)
-some parts are harder to come by if junkyard shopping (gas tank skid, tow hook brackets, tail lights all come to mind)

-Washes (things that fall hard on personal preferences)
-distributor style ignition, as opposed to the distributorless of later years)
-soundbar that shares design with later years (again, my 97 as an example, its got the earlier version)- this means shitty cargo area light, but ability to fit larger speakers
-airbags
-plasticized dash

HTH

OH, mine is loaded and auto trans.

So Over2land do you LIKE it overaLL? Good review!!

Yeah, overall I do.

And, about the head thing, I might be talking out my ass... but way I see it, its easier to swap an intake than a head.

Also, I'd personally rather the distributorless setup... but with all the misfire code issues I've been seeing people getting... maybe I'm better off.

Oh, and mines got almost 200K on it now.

over2land said:

-airbag module under driver seat which can result in premature airbag deployment and/or airbag light coming on in the dash (I think they changed this in 99= check if there is a recall for the 98 you are looking at)

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All modules get moved. If yours did not, go to a dealership and they'll move it.

-some parts are harder to come by if junkyard shopping (gas tank skid, tow hook brackets, tail lights all come to mind)

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Errr...tow hook brackets are same for all years (give or take one hole which is an easy fix).

-airbags

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How's that a downside? They don't blow unless they need to. I rolled mine at slow speed and they did not blow.

Anyways, I had a 98 XJ Sport with a manual tranny and it had every bell and whistle that I think was available in the Sport model. I've owned it since new and if it wasn't for a stupid tire I'd still own it.

The downside that noone mentioned is the fog light switch. It will burn out unless you install a resistor harness from the dealership and that harness is EXPENSIVE. Or you can get a different switch and use that instead

Thanks for the input. Airbags can be scary. Is there a switch to turn the passenger side airbag off?

Jeepkid91 said:

Thanks for the input. Airbags can be scary. Is there a switch to turn the passenger side airbag off?

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You can get a kit from the dealer, but let me ask you this: WHY? New airbag controllers are really good and they prevent accidental blows.

98, 4.0, auto, loaded here.
Problems i've had:
The window lock switch is garbage and on mine, it prevented passengers from controlling the window themselves. Easy enough fix, I jumpered a couple wires with the help of info from this site and it all works.
Speaker connections apparently not soldered / rattles adjust speaker functionality
Rear hatch has an easily-frozen latch on it which requires the occasional use of PBlaster. The latches have a variety of failure modes but after a long soaking of PBLaster mine has been going strong.
During deceleration downhill and at altitude or off-road maneuvers at 1500 RPM or so, the check engine light comes on and stays on for a few stops and starts. The PCM thinks the manifold absolute pressure sensor is off. It isn't - the 98 model year still had some programming glitches that I'm too broke to have the dealer update.

The upshots, of course, are that you get the best available drivetrain for reliability. The XJ didn't get any more reliable than it was in 98. The 98 4.0 had the older head style, can gain significant power from a relatively inexpensive intake swap, AW4 is pretty stout for the application etc etc.

All in all I love my 98 and the more I learn, the happier I am to have the 98 model as opposed to any other.

Kejtar said:

All modules get moved. If yours did not, go to a dealership and they'll move it.

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Even on the 01? My understanding is that they figured it out by 99... and the module was under the console from the factory. Also, I had to argue with the service writer about replacing the unit (since the airbag light was on already) and if I didn't have my laptop with me and internet access he was going to make me pay for a new module if they found it faulty. Go here and plug in the last 8 digits of your VIN to see whether there are any recalls, and see what recalls may or may not have been applied to your particular Jeep.
http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/index.jsp?screenName=recall
Then, if there is a recall, do yourself a favor and print it out to take with you when you go to the stealership, just in case.

Kejtar said:

Errr...tow hook brackets are same for all years (give or take one hole which is an easy fix).

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The bumper bracket, which is welded to the tow hook bracket is different for the later years. At least it was for me, comparing my 88 and 89 to my 97 and 98. I find early tow hook brackets (with welded on bumper brackets) in the junkyard. I've never seen a later model one in the junkyard with tow hooks. I made my early brackets work with my late bumper by cutting off the early bumper mount brackets and welding on the later ones.

Kejtar said:

How's that a downside? They don't blow unless they need to. I rolled mine at slow speed and they did not blow.

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Meh... I don't trust them. Just like I don't trust ABS, and don't like ESC on the new Jeeps either. Wear a dang seatbelt. Draw the line where you like, but I'm sure most of us on here have some new-fangled safety thing that they don't like. Mine starts with ABS and Airbags.

Kejtar said:

The downside that noone mentioned is the fog light switch. It will burn out unless you install a resistor harness from the dealership and that harness is EXPENSIVE. Or you can get a different switch and use that instead

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Very good point. On both the 97 and 98 the switch was melted inside. I pulled both of them apart and then set out to repair the one that was less melted... cleaned contacts, stretched spring, etc... played around till it made contact again... mainly looking to see if the rest of the system even worked (yeah, I used a jumper wire to see.... but at that point it was the point of it). I'm planning on adding a relay underhood so that switch is just turning a relay on and off. From searching on here, it seems that the relay doesn't actually send power from the battery to the lights... but serves some other purpose. By omission, sending the amperage from the lights through the switch. I'm sure Remi will jump back in here with a real description, since I've not torn into it (aside from R&Ring the switch).

over2land said:

Even on the 01? My understanding is that they figured it out by 99... and the module was under the console from the factory. Also, I had to argue with the service writer about replacing the unit (since the airbag light was on already) and if I didn't have my laptop with me and internet access he was going to make me pay for a new module if they found it faulty. Go here and plug in the last 8 digits of your VIN to see whether there are any recalls, and see what recalls may or may not have been applied to your particular Jeep.
http://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jeep/index.jsp?screenName=recall
Then, if there is a recall, do yourself a favor and print it out to take with you when you go to the stealership, just in case.

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I pulled up with my 99 to the dealership about 2 weeks ago to check on the recalls. They pulled them up by the vin and proudly announced that they will relocate my airbag module for me.

The bumper bracket, which is welded to the tow hook bracket is different for the later years. At least it was for me, comparing my 88 and 89 to my 97 and 98. I find early tow hook brackets (with welded on bumper brackets) in the junkyard. I've never seen a later model one in the junkyard with tow hooks. I made my early brackets work with my late bumper by cutting off the early bumper mount brackets and welding on the later ones.

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I remember helping folks fit them between the years and don't remember having to cut and weld anything, but then again they might have had a weird variation during one of the years.

Very good point. On both the 97 and 98 the switch was melted inside. I pulled both of them apart and then set out to repair the one that was less melted... cleaned contacts, stretched spring, etc... played around till it made contact again... mainly looking to see if the rest of the system even worked (yeah, I used a jumper wire to see.... but at that point it was the point of it). I'm planning on adding a relay underhood so that switch is just turning a relay on and off. From searching on here, it seems that the relay doesn't actually send power from the battery to the lights... but serves some other purpose. By omission, sending the amperage from the lights through the switch. I'm sure Remi will jump back in here with a real description, since I've not torn into it (aside from R&Ring the switch).

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I'm trying to remember the details but they elude me. Part of what I recall is that I think that indicator light that the fog lights are on was the problem and I think that's what the new harness with a resistor was for. AFAIK they did not add a relay in that harness, but then again I've never held one in hand either.

Kejtar said:

I pulled up with my 99 to the dealership about 2 weeks ago to check on the recalls. They pulled them up by the vin and proudly announced that they will relocate my airbag module for me.

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That's the 2-door, right? There ya go. I met a dude with an 01 a couple months ago... like right after I found out about that site... we put his vin in there, and it had no recall. No bracket under the driver seat either. <shrug> Its Jeep... YMMV

Kejtar said:

I remember helping folks fit them between the years and don't remember having to cut and weld anything, but then again they might have had a weird variation during one of the years.

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Yeah, on the early ones, the bolts go through the bracket top and bottom, on the late one, top and front, IIRC. I guess you could redrill/relocate goofy nut-things but looking at it, it just seemed easier to plasma off one, weld the other back on... no measuring or drilling of anything.

Kejtar said:

I'm trying to remember the details but they elude me.

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Heh, me too. I know about your bulb crusade... from what I've seen when searching, it really seems to be a personal thing. Almost like a witch hunt to get the devils outta the switch. It seems there are two main camps- 1) the bulbs in the switch itself make it overheat 2) there is no relay to relay power to the fogs, sending full power through the switch. I'm not so fond of the first one, because if that were the case, there would be more burned out rear defrost switches too. Sure its got merit- that stupid thing does get really hot when they run for a while.

I don't use my fogs all the time... so I'm probably not a good gauge. I use my fogs when its foggy... which around here is much less than other places. So far my redneck switch mod is working, and I'll add a relay to that... and I might never know if that really did it, or if it was just cause I don't use them anytime its dark.

OH, Remi, when I started messing with the fog switch, I checked Riverside Jeep for that retrofit harness and while they didn't have one, Moss Dodge down the street had it in stock. I was meaning to go down there and look at it, but never did.

over2land said:

-Good head on the motor, IIRC, the 99 and up head is prone to cracking

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I was told this was 2000 to 01

over2land said:

-light grey interior (personally, I'd much rather the darker one of later years)

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They offer it in different trims...so you dont have to have the light grey just the one you bough is.

over2land said:

-uncomfortable front seats (as compared the upper level seats of 96 and earlier years)

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the classic and the limited come with different trims and have differnt seats, ones that are more comfortable

red_01_xj said:

They offer it in different trims...so you dont have to have the light grey just the one you bough is.

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Ah. I thought 97 and 98 were light grey and 99-01 was dark.

red_01_xj said:

the classic and the limited come with different trims and have differnt seats, ones that are more comfortable

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Ah, the two I have are both Sport Models.

Two other "con" things to look at:If it has ABS,it will be a D35 axle.And 97+ models are prone to driveline issues when lifted.

I love my 98' also, I too had the window lock switch problems but was a simple fix, I also had the power mirrors go out but I fugured it out and was a simple jumper also. Swapping the 99+ intake manifold will give a substantial increase in power, the reason for the manifold change in 99 was because of the restrictive head changes due to emmision constraints to the 99+ heads not only have the cracking problem but are also choked down due to the EPA standards. I'd go for it, it's a great year for the cherokee with the updated interior and exterior stout drivetrain and reliable motor and drivetrain. Definately a good purchase and as far as miles go as long as the vehicle was maintaned properly it will run for 250k+ GO FOR IT!!

RCP Phx said:

Two other "con" things to look at:If it has ABS,it will be a D35 axle.And 97+ models are prone to driveline issues when lifted.

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All jeeps are prone to driveline issues when lifted, that more so depends on jeep to jeep what is needed to fix it

The 97+ is way more likely to have issues(even when NOT lifted,there is even a TSB out for possible fixes).I had problems with mine (2000)from the first mile!