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need REAL info on exhaust wrapping please

B

Beezil

Member #Nay
NAXJA Member
Location
Indiana-Missouri
I am needing to re-route my entire exhaust due to my suspension project....I may run the exhaust down the driver's side, and move the fuel lines to the p-side, or I might go above the floor boards and run it down a channel...the last time I looked hard at things, there might be a way to sneak it down the p-side, but it will need to run VERY close to the tranny, almost hugging it....

whichever way I do it, heat will be a major concern, therefore, my qustion is, is there any reason why i can't wrap the exhaust with insulated exhaust tape, until I at least clear the sensitive areas, right before the cat inlet?

what would be some reasons why not?

if it is okay to wrap, can anyone suggest a certain type of wrap to use?

thanks.
 
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1351&prmenbr=361

This is supposed to be some great stuff. If you saw how close the exhaust headpipe is to the oilpan on a TJ you probably would be shocked. It goes straight down from the header and loops around the front of the oilpan before going towards the rear. But I know the auto tranny would be a little more sensitive to extreme heat than an engine's oil pan.
 
Beezil, get stainless steel or get your tubing ceramic coated. Then use the exhaust wrap and coat it with the protective spray paint made for that purpose. This way your exhaust will be moisture resistant and in the case of the ceramic coated transmit less heat and the sealant paint will protect the wrap from moisture and rot. Its what I did on the Warrior's exhaust. Jet hot coats the inside and outside I beleive.

XJguy
 
I think KY Chris has some of that Hi Temp rope in stock..... id use that wrapped tight and then cover w/ 2 part epoxy, followed by Duct tape. Works for me

Chewy
 
guy, I don't have time right now to do what you are suggesting, but it sounds interesting....

also, I cannot justify the added cost of such a thing for a rig like mine.

I have a tendancy to rip and snag exhausts, so my stuff needs to be common so it is easily repaired.

thanks for the link sean, I figured you would know where to get .250-wall exhaust wrap!
 
I used the Thermo-Tec on some headers a few years ago. Thermo-Tec has stainless straps to clamp the ends to keep it from un-wrapping, but I just used hose clamps, moderately tight. It's amazing how well this stuff works. With the wrap installed, I could change plugs on a hot engine without using gloves. This would be impossible with bare headers.

The 2" x 50' roll should be enough to do a foot or so of exhaust pipe several times, so you will have spare wrap for repair. I didn't use the protective coating on mine so over time it look a little ratty from rocks and crap flying up from the track. If you're doing a straight section of tube, it would be easy enough to wrap a thin piece of stainless or aluminum over the wrap for impact protection.
 
beezil.. what kind of muffler are you using? one of my buddies is using a magnaflow.. there's no baffles in it so it exits clean and doesnt hold as much heat... thought it might help with regard to heat buildup. ...
 
I'm not too concerned about heat past the tranny, thanks for the lead....if i have trouble fitting a muffler to my design, I'm just going to make my own patterned after a flowmaster....
 
the wrap will cause the tubing to get brittle. I went through 2 sets of headers that way.
FYI, Im running my new fuel lines up through the framerail, as well as wires and a new brakeline. that way you can push the exhaust all the way under the pinch seam.
Ive already run a wire all the way through and it has no walls in there(framerail)
 
The biggest problem with wrapping is mummifiing the exhaust. The wrap will stay as the exhaust rots away on the inside..... imho
 
I am only wrapping from the flange right after the collector (not the manifold) and am only intersted in protecting the things i might have to have the exhaust running closely next to. I was just unsure if there was anything the wrap would do like trick sensors or something wierd that may cause the engine to run funny?
 
OBDII cars may have issues with wrapping only one part. especially if you wrap one of the O2,s and the other is hotter (or cooler) it will trip the ECU into limp mode. I get that all the time with my export pipes.
pre OBDII should be fine sensor wise. The problem with the wrap is they keep all the heat "in there", so it bakes whatever is inside.
If youre only wrapping right after the flange, you should be fine. Also, Flowmaster has that new non seal collector/flange piece thats much smaller than a tri-bolt flange setup. might help clearance.
 
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