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Upgrading to a d44 rear build thread

L

lapisxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Huntsville, AL
I wanted to start a build thread for the XJ d44 rear that will go in our 96 XJ. I found this axle in a junkyard 87-89 XJ a number of years ago for a steal of $100. I've been hanging onto it since then for the time that we were able to afford the buildup. The original plan was for an Eaton E-locker (since it was driven on the street a good bit), gears, rebuild, disc brakes, blast and paint and new diff cover. The plan has changed slightly due to the cost of the locker and the fact that this vehicle gets less street time due to its poor road manners. I locked the front end back this past summer and the few rides I've taken it on since have shown me that I'm about to the limits of what it will do with no rear locker to compliment the front so it is about time to get to it.

I had thought of locking the 8.25 that is currently in our xj as I have a second 8.25 for spares but it seems like I can go farther with the 44 both financially and physically.

The current plan is the following...
-Lockright
-New 4.56 or 4.88 gears (still undecided for 33's)
-Diff rebuild kit
-New axle wheel bearings
-Rock crusher diff guard (to match the front)
-Rebuild the brakes

Other possibilities include disc brakes, axle truss, raise the shock mounts.

Last night I got a buddy to help pull it out of the shed and then I got started tearing it down. Picts to follow.
 
Last edited:
Here's what it looked like after pulling the cover and brake assemblies.
IMG_6519-800.jpg


Here's the chunk, no real damage but it was a bit on the sludgy side and I discovered that the diff is a limited slip so we'll need to add an open carrier to the list.
IMG_6520-800.jpg


IMG_6521-800.jpg


The wheel bearing end, thankfully the outter race came out relatively easy...
IMG_6522-800.jpg


I used a slide hammer to get the chunk out. The pinion had .035" worth of shims under the inner pinion race. I'll take the bearings off the carrier to figure out my starting point for the new gearset. Here's what it looks like after the chunk was out.
IMG_6525-800.jpg


I pulled the brake lines, knocked out all the races, and wiped it out with brake clener. Overall I spent about 1.5 hours to get to this point. Now it's off to the pressure washer to clean it up and to decide if I want to take it to get sandblasted or to just hit it with the wire wheel and get some paint on. I also need to flex out the XJ to see if I have enough travel to allow me to raise the shock mounts.

BTW don't think that this build is going to happen in a week's time cause it will be more like a couple months. I have a 2 week old baby boy so I'll be sneaking away for an hour here and there to get this built. :shhh:

If anybody has any good truss links please send them my way.
 
Are you positive thats a Limited slip? The carrier looks a bit odd, but it looks open to me.
 
Begster said:
Are you positive thats a Limited slip? The carrier looks a bit odd, but it looks open to me.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure. You can see the clutch pack under the side gear. The picts may not show it that well but they're there.
 
lapisxj said:
I'm pretty sure. You can see the clutch pack under the side gear. The picts may not show it that well but they're there.
Click to expand...

Looks like a trash lock to me. If you are going to replace the carrier and then put a lockrite in it, just save up and get a Detroit.

Definately raise the shock mounts. A truss is a good plan also since it has pretty thin tubes and a light duty housing.

Discs are up to you. The wheel cylinders can be upgraded to give your drums more stopping power then ZJ discs and can overpower the front brakes if you go too big. Then a nice WJ brake swap would balance it out to make it stop great.

My motto is do it right the first time....
 
Well I got the axle cleaned up today spent a few hours pressure washing using simple green to get some of the funk off, then I took a twisted wire cup on a grinder to it to really get it striped down. I finished it off with some engine degreaser on the inside with a scrub brush and rinsed it off one last time. It got dried, wiped with Acetone, and a coat of primer so it won't rust.

I picked up my 2 sets of axle wheel bearings. Timken Set 10. I was unsure of the wheel seals so I'll need to verify that before I head to the parts place again. Bearings cost $40 for both.

IMG_6527-800.jpg



IMG_6528-800.jpg


IMG_6533-800.jpg


IMG_6535-800.jpg


I'm rounding up some numbers for locker options as well as beginning my homework on disc brakes...
 
Look at the Aussie locker. Its no more expensive but seems to be higher quality than the lock-rite.

You were going to have to buy a new carrier to go with 4.56/4.88 gears anyways, right? The carrier break is between 3.73 and 3.92.

Given my experiance over the past several years, and the fact you said this rig takes less daily driving now, I'll throw my 2 cents towards 4.88 gears. The lower gears helps when you have it loaded down for camping, helps on the trail, helps if you end up towing with it, and if its not a DD the few MPH you may lose at the top end won't hurt. Its been my experiance the 4.0 prefers to spin a little faster instead of working a little harder, anyways.

-Cal

PS: your cleanup looks really good.
 
cal said:
Look at the Aussie locker. Its no more expensive but seems to be higher quality than the lock-rite.

You were going to have to buy a new carrier to go with 4.56/4.88 gears anyways, right? The carrier break is between 3.73 and 3.92.

Given my experiance over the past several years, and the fact you said this rig takes less daily driving now, I'll throw my 2 cents towards 4.88 gears. The lower gears helps when you have it loaded down for camping, helps on the trail, helps if you end up towing with it, and if its not a DD the few MPH you may lose at the top end won't hurt. Its been my experiance the 4.0 prefers to spin a little faster instead of working a little harder, anyways.

-Cal

PS: your cleanup looks really good.
Click to expand...

Yea, I am going to need a new carrier regardless since I will be passing the gear break.

Thanks for the input.
 
lapisxj said:
Yea, I am going to need a new carrier regardless since I will be passing the gear break.

Thanks for the input.
Click to expand...

They do make thick D44 gears so you don't need to change carriers.
 
While you have it all apart.. pull that plastic breather valve out and weld up that hole, then take the brake hose bolt and throw it away, then redrill & tap that hole to accept 7/16 so the breather bolt from your 35/8.25 will go right in and hold the brake hose at the same time.. The D44 always leak fluid from those two places... If you need a carrier I have a good 3.92 + up sitting in the garage I will part with...
 
TNT Quote:
Originally Posted by lapisxj
Yea, I am going to need a new carrier regardless since I will be passing the gear break.

Thanks for the input.


They do make thick D44 gears so you don't need to change carriers.

They do make thick D44 gears so you don't need to change carriers.

by using thick cut gears, your axel spines will keep more engagment with the side gears. Does assie make a drop in for the tracloc, I think you can get a powertrax no slip for the TL.
 
Don't worry, I was planning on doing the truss and shock mounts before paint. :D I just needed to get the primer down before it flash rusted.

I know I can get thick gearsets but since I will have to get a new carrier anyway I might as well get the standard set. I don't think any of the lunchbox lockers will fit in a L/S case so my options are to get an open carrier or get a full locker.

The price is better on the Aussie but I've not found anything on their site that says they could go in a L/S carrier.
 
I considered shortening the shock mounts on mine, instead just trussed them across the bottom and an inch or so up the sides. They still dork down, but are stronger and I haven't hit them on anything yet. I was just considering that they'll work with the shocks at stock length that way.

Since you have to replace the carrier anyways, I'd consider a top of the line locker such as a Detroit, Ox, or ARB. I've definitely gone to the "build it right the first time" mindset the last few years. It's a PITA and more money in the end putting in something you consider "good enough" only to upgrade later, as opposed to saving up a little longer to install something that's exactly what you want the first time.

Nice job on the cleanup. I pretty much just knocked the big chunks of greasy mud off of mine before taking it in for gears, locker, seals and shaft bearings.
 
Wow….you’re build thread is almost identical to mine :roflmao: I went with a powertrax, and am liking it so far. Takes a bit of getting used to with the 5 speed, though.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5401




Clean-RC said:
While you have it all apart.. pull that plastic breather valve out and weld up that hole, then take the brake hose bolt and throw it away, then redrill & tap that hole to accept 7/16 so the breather bolt from your 35/8.25 will go right in and hold the brake hose at the same time.. The D44 always leak fluid from those two places... If you need a carrier I have a good 3.92 + up sitting in the garage I will part with...
Click to expand...

I also did this, and it's very simple. Used a rear soft line from a Dakota (longer) 9.25 axle, but the 8.25 and the later model D35 use the same setup. Read thru my post and you'll see what to do.

Jeff
 
Started doing some digging on disc brake setups... Almost all the parts I would get new from Autozone but the one part that would be a dealer or junkyard part is the brake backing plate/mount. I called the dealer and they have the pass side for $22 (part # 4762128) but they can't get the drivers side at all. Crap. Well then it was on to the junkyards. I started making calls and was getting prices from $450-1000 PER WHOLE AXLE ASSEMBLY!!!!!! WTF ARE THESE PEOPLE SMOKING!!!!!

I'm going by Stu Olson's site as it seems to have the least amount of custom crap to make this work.

So I'm still on the hunt for parts...
 
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