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RK 4.5 LA w/8.8 build report

SnagglePuss

SnagglePuss

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cameron Park, Ca
photo
A little brown man dropped off some boxes today.
Where are the coils? I have no clue.
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The control arms are stout.
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Disk 8.8 w/ 4.56, Elocker and Great Lake Offroad cover. I still need to get the break lines bent and weld perches and shock mounts.
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Nice gay blue and poop brown.
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DC4wd talked me into Rubicon Express shocks. I was going to get 5150's, but he said these were valved specific for XJ and didnt need the different mount like 5150. Plus saved some coin.
I plan on running 33" BFG MT I got on Craigslist.




I'll post as I make progress (or inevitably screw something up and need help).
:paperwork
 
Disconnected brakelines, took out dshaft and removed the rear axle and put the new leaf springs in. The leaf spring bushings came assembled with the brass sleave in place. I didnt realize that the big bushing for the front had the sleeve for the rear and vise-versa. I scratched my head for awhile why the OE shackles wouldnt fit.:twak:
Got started unbolting CA's and stuff on the front. The stock CA brackets are a royal pain in the @ss to remove! I hacked and slashed with my Sawzall and thin cut off wheel and still have chunks of metal to grind off. There has to be an easier way (besides plasma).


Need to bolt the 8.8 in place under load to weld perches, shock mounts and measure for High Angle Driveline shaft and SYE.



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i heard those mounts were a pain....4" angle grinder?
 
Latest thoughts:
I finished cutting off the other CA bracket. It definately works best to make carefull, patient cuts with a grinder/cutoff wheel than to try to sawzall and bang on it. I have several hours, 10 cutoff wheels and a couple sawzall blades into this.

The upper control arm brackets have a 15mm cam bolt that is kind of a pain to remove cause it is difficult to keep the bolt from spinning.



I've found it frustrating that there is such a mix of SAE and metric fasteners all over. I need to buy a wrench/socket for the pitman arm. Is it a 1.5" or a metric size?
 
SnagglePuss said:
Yeah, I asked the shop that installed the gears if they could do that, but he didnt recommend it.
I will prolly do it when I weld the perches and shock mounts.
Click to expand...

Hmm... He must not be aware that the tubes like to spin in those. Even the Mustang guys weld theirs.
 
Finished removing the front axle.

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The 15mm bolts on the axle side of the upper control arms were a pain. The nuts were frozen and it was difficult to keep the bolt from spinning cause there is a little cam instead of hex head on the bolt.
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Stooopid cam bolt.
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While comparing lifts, I wondered about the structural integrity and reliability of this 3-link design on and off the trail. After all, you are taking away 25% of the structure locating the axle front-to-back and resisting torsional forces. But after compairing the OE crap that came off the Jeep to the overbuilt solid stock compenents that are included with this kit, these questions are gone. :thumbup:
 
Hear ya on removing the CA brackets....PITA. Took me about 4 hours on a side but I took my time. Any plans on installing a grease fitting in the upper control arm axle mount at the diff ?

Looking at the new generation of RK upper control arm mounts I may add skids to the bottom of mine...I have the older weld on mounts.

Good luck, looks good.

Ron
 
I added skids to the bottom of mine. The flex joint goes on the axle side so protecting it is a good idea. I like the rockkrawler arms alot. Theyre made of solid alloy, so i dont think bending them will ever be a problem
 
is there only two bolts through the frame holding on each bracket, or are there some self-tappers going up through the bottom?

kenny
 
Theres to bolts going through the frame rail with crush sleaves in the center. It also uses the two cross member bolts. Im planning on welding mine in too.
 
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