Booty Fab version of plumbing

[Lowrange2]

I've got a leak in my hot tub. It's a funny pvc fitting that would have to be a special order from the manufacturer and they don't carry the fitting any more. So replacment really isn't an issue. There is a hairline crack about 3/4 inch long in the fittin. You guys know of any ghettolicious way to fix a hairline crack? I was thinking possibly use a soldering iron and melt it back together but I'm not sure if that would hold. Just a thought. I've tried several different kinds of ashesives and tapes but water is a crazy demon that refuses to give in!

[5-90]

Got a pic of the thing? You can probably fake something up out of OTS goodies, or redesign the thing a bit and eliminate it entirely, but I'm very visual...

PVC and ABS are usually designed for a cemented slip-fit - trying to glue a crack will probably not work. I believe they are also both "thermoset" plastics - meaning that once they're formed, that's it. A "thermoplastic" you could melt back together, but not a thermoset (or do I have those reversed? Anyhow - I'm fairly sure that PVC can't be readily melted back together...)

So, got a pic? You may get asked for measurements afterwards...

[redneckboarder]

duct tape haha, i hear the jb weld for plastic works well just make sure there is no water in the pipe

[Lowrange2]

5-90 -

I'm headed to the house now... I'll get some pictures of it when I get there... Stay tuned.

Hm... I didn't think about JB weld.

PS... already tried duct tape. It'll hold together at 200 mph but no can do with water.

[RichP]

Depends, if it is an accessible spot you could cut some rubber inner tube, put it over the crack and use a hose clamp or two to tighten it together. We did stuff like that in the Navy during damage control training while up to our armpits in very cold water. I even used it at home for a pinhole in my water supply line in the cellar, piece of tire patch over the hole in the copper pipe, small piece of bent aluminum drip edge and two radiator hose clamps. I actually forgot about for almost two years till I had a plumber come in and install a house filtering system,

[5-90]

5-90 -

I'm headed to the house now... I'll get some pictures of it when I get there... Stay tuned.

Hm... I didn't think about JB weld.

PS... already tried duct tape. It'll hold together at 200 mph but no can do with water.

Duct tape won't hold liquids under pressure (don't ask how I know...) I don't think JB would be much help - although I might be willing to try wrapping the thing in fibreglas and applying polyester resin, if I couldn't find any other way (you'd never be able to work on it again!) I'd rather look for a means to fix it that could be serviced later, if need be - and with OTS parts instead of specialty gear...

I'm in hospital with my MIL, so I'm not going anywhere...

[Lowrange2]

the crack is where the red line is. So that puts the hose and hose clamps out of the questions. The tape is there to firmly hold some waterproof 2 part epoxy in place long enough for it to dry. But after 2 days of drying I filled it up with water and it still leaked.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c284/lowrange2/leak2.jpg

Edit: Wow, I didn't realize it was so hard to see. Sorry

[Matthew Currie]

I would experiment, preferably on a scrap piece of the same material. I'm was under the impression that PVC pipe joints are solvent-welded. If so, then it's possible that you could open up the crack enough to get a good bead of cement into it and get a good seal. But if 5-90 is correct that the cement doesn't soften or melt the material, then this won't work. Put some cement on the surface of a piece of the material and see if it softens it.

Another possibility might be epoxy or resin. If you have enough access to wrap tape around it you might be able to use thin epoxy or resin and wrap it all the way around with fiberglass.

edit: posted before your picture appeared. I still think it might be possible to do this with fiberglass tape and lots of resin, basically fabricating an outer jacket over the cracked pipe. But it's a nasty shape to work with.

[RedHeep]

Looks like maybe you could find a fitting that fits the threaded end into the tub, install an elbow and then a reducer on the other end and hose clamp that clear hose onto the end of it.

Is the clear hose at the top a vent? That could be a brass fitting and some teflon tape in a nicely drilled hole in said elbow.

[Lowrange2]

I'm just not sure how that HUGE nut dealio comes off.. or does it? The clear hose shouldn't be a problem.

[5-90]

That red line right on the outside of the bend? You may want to make it a little bolder next time - I had to look for the beggar...

Anyhow, without getting a better look in person at the thing (it's probably the tub fitting that can't be easily had...) I'd pull the tape of, scrape off as much of the epoxy as you can (what temperature was it when you were waiting for it to cure? That's a factor...) and sand with 80 or 120 grit to clean the surface and get it scuffed up a little. Make sure it's dry.

Mix up a batch of polyester resin (included with most fibreglas kits) and cut strips of 'glas about 1/2" by 4-6" long. Smear resin all over the thing, and then wrap layers of 'glas strips over the thing - alternating directions (two or three layers should do - each layer should run across the one under it.) Apply resin each time you lay a layer of wrap over it.

Apply a thickish layer of resin over the last layer of 'glas. Allow to cure for about 36 hours - ideally with no water, and preferably at 60-70* (using mild heat if necessary.) It's a lot of work, but it should do the job - if you've done your prep work properly, and mixed your resin correctly. You'll want a fairly tight wrap with the 'glas, but don't try to stretch it - you just want it snug and smooth.

I could probably come up with a more elegant solution if I could be there to take things to bits, but I'm not. This is a "field expedient" method I've used for semi-permanent repairs with good results before.

Rich - nice tip on the innertube and hose clamps - I'll have to keep a few sections of tube around in my disaster kit. I didn't spend a lot of time around Navy guys growing up - most of the guys I knew where Army (Ain't Ready for Marines Yet) and Marines (My Ass Rides In Navy Equipment, Sir!)

[RyanM]

Fix it after the drought ;):D

But I would try some 1 min. gasket maker for water pumps, thermostats etc.

I dropped a shot glass in to my garbage disposal while it was running an it threw a peice out of the plastic container under the sink. 1/2" hole, the permatex is holding strong

[Lowrange2]

semi-permanent repairs with good results before.


Sorry bout the line... I saw that after I posted.

I'll try the resin. The only problem I see with that is that the strips won't be able to wrap all the way around the fitting where the crack is. I'll give that a shot next!

[sjkimmel99]

What does this fitting do? Jet? Return? drain? What brand is the Spa?

[Lowrange2]

Its a jet. Sunspa --- maybe... I don't remember. It's outside and it's cold (by cold i mean it's 65*, lol - Damn SC)

[sjkimmel99]

This place: http://spapartsnet.com/Reference-Catalog/Jets
seems to have a lot of parts catalogs for various makes. Maybe if you emailed them a picture (without the blue tape) they could ID a potential replacement.

Some of the stuff they have, like on this page:
http://spapartsnet.com/Reference-Catalog/Jets/Jets-and-Jet-Parts-Waterway_5020_0_1.html
looks similar to the picture.

[Lowrange2]

The manufacturer stopped producing them but I never even thought about finding a different one...lol

[8Mud]

I'd use Plumbers *GOOP* which is actually Lexan Glue, also comes marketed as E-5000 in cartridges. Actually the same stuff they use to repair RC car bodies.
Smear it with glue wrap it in gauze smear it again, maybe add a second layer. Stuff dries harder than PVC and is less prone to crack than Epoxies.
I swear by the stuff, takes a day to cure but for body, glass and plastic repairs there really isn't anything better. I've repaired the bumper end caps on my XJ with it, that was about five years ago.

[TheAlmightySam]

I've used black panel bonding adhesive with great results before. It's the nasty black glue that Audis are glued together with, and it will seal up just about anything, and is incredibly strong. I'd open up the crack a bit with a Dremel or a die grinder, spray some adhesion promoter on it, and put a bunch of the adhesive in the crack and let it sit for 48 hours.

You can get this stuff at specialty auto body places like Wesco, and you'll be amazed at how often you use it for various stuff. It will just about glue anything to anything.

[x2elite]

You need some Marine Epoxy, it comes in a little roll kind of like playdoh, but it has a chemical in the middle, and when you knead the two layers together you can place it anywhere and it will harden. Even underwater. I own several pieces of real estate (apartment buildings and lofts), and I have used it more than once to repair the plastic casings on garbage disposals and it worked great. On one of the garbage disposals someone dropped a drywall screw in it, and when they turned it on it drove the screw the plastic outer casing. I pulled the screw out, put some marine epoxy on it, and never leaked since.

[Lowrange2]

You need some Marine Epoxy, it comes in a little roll kind of like playdoh, but it has a chemical in the middle, and when you knead the two layers together you can place it anywhere and it will harden. Even underwater. I own several pieces of real estate (apartment buildings and lofts), and I have used it more than once to repair the plastic casings on garbage disposals and it worked great. On one of the garbage disposals someone dropped a drywall screw in it, and when they turned it on it drove the screw the plastic outer casing. I pulled the screw out, put some marine epoxy on it, and never leaked since.

Thats the first thing I tried... no luck.

[GrimmJeeper]

billy mays, the oxyclean guy is hocking some new magic clay type compound on TV that should work, if you believe that crapola :D

[Lowrange2]

lol isnt he the grille guy?

[GrimmJeeper]

lol isnt he the grille guy? he sells all kids of crap lol. like "KABOOM! The revolutionary new cleaner!" lol. everything he sells is revolutionary!

[Lowrange2]

He sounds like my Gay Flight attendant uncle!

[ZacSquatch]

So thats who's been touching you....

[Lowrange2]

He has touched my soul! but not thru any orafices... He's quite I nice fella! lol

[90Blue_XJ]

JB Weld makes some under water type stuff like has already been mentioned. It comes in a roll and is one part inside the other. You slice off a section and knead it until both parts are the same color. Put it on like putty and let it cure.
I used some once on my Renix coolant tank and drove it for about a week or ten days while a new tank was in transit from Quadratech. No leaks during that time period.

[x2elite]

Billy Mayes stuff is the same as the marine epoxy i was talking about earlier.