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Anyone do their own tune-ups?

jeeperguy21

jeeperguy21

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Syracuse, UT
Since I have done everything else on my Jeep myself except the alignment, I feel qualified to do a tune up. So what all is involved?

I looked at some tune-up kits online, and they came with new spark plugs, ignition wire set, distributor rotor, and an in-line fuel filter. Is that everything I need?

I don't want to buy the kit I found cause I don't need everything it comes with, such as an oil filter and air filter, so where is the best place to get these parts? Any parts store? I'm probably looking too much into this, but I don't want to do it and realize I should have gone with a different product.

For those of you that have done it yourself, how long did it take to complete, and did you run into any problems? Anything I need to look out for? Thanks for your help.
 
jeeperguy21 said:
Since I have done everything else on my Jeep myself except the alignment, I feel qualified to do a tune up. So what all is involved?

I looked at some tune-up kits online, and they came with new spark plugs, ignition wire set, distributor rotor, and an in-line fuel filter. Is that everything I need?

I don't want to buy the kit I found cause I don't need everything it comes with, such as an oil filter and air filter, so where is the best place to get these parts? Any parts store? I'm probably looking too much into this, but I don't want to do it and realize I should have gone with a different product.

For those of you that have done it yourself, how long did it take to complete, and did you run into any problems? Anything I need to look out for? Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

What year? If you have a 2000-2001, you don't have plug wires.

A tuneup, for me, is usually:
  • Oil and filter (3000-5000 miles on dead dinosaurs)
  • Fuel Filter (15000-20000 miles)
  • Air Filter (20000-25000 miles)
  • PCV/breather filter (if any) (as air filter)
  • Cap and Rotor (if present) (25000 miles or so)
  • Plug Wires (if present) (as required - inspect)
  • Spark Plugs (two years)
  • Accessory Drive Belt (50000-60000 miles)
  • Coolant Hoses (four years)
  • Heater Hoses (if necessary) (check - typically four years)
  • Grease all lube points (semi-annually)
  • Transmission fluid/oil (two years)
  • Axle oil (two years)
  • Transfer Case fluid (two years)
  • Clean transmission/transfer case/axle breather lines (yearly)

If I don't replace the components with that particular tune-up, they'll still get inspected. I'm also cranky - I do annual inspections of pretty much everything every year, which are probably too comprehensive to list here (and the inspection does vary - while there are things I'll always check - oil pressure, fuel pressure, ... - there are also things I'll check based on problems I've noted during the previous year.)

Granted, I'm probably a bit more thorough than most, but I like having a 20-year-old vehicle that I don't have to think about when I decide to drive across the country.

But, if you can handle an alignment, you should have no trouble with a tune-up. Specs are in most manuals, and you can check the emissions tag underhood for any "late changes" for your particular vehicle. Timing isn't something that can be altered on most computer-controlled vehicle from ca. 1985 forward, so don't worry about it (especially on distributorless systems - where the timing can be altered for individual cylinders!)
 
Thanks. I have a 1999.
 
If it is like a 96, be careful back on the 6 cylinder, I broke my Heater valve (rotted plastic) and had to bum a ride back down to napa
 
For a 99, skip the fuel filter unless you're planning to drop the tank. No external fuel filter here.

Parts store ignition parts usually come in more than one grade. Get the premium cap with the brass posts.

If you do the serpentine belt, check the idler bearings while you're at it, and also check the water pump for play.

Make sure that the fittings for the crankcase breather are free of cracks and hardening, and if possible, clean out the vacuum tube (the one at the rear).

Consider treating it to a new radiator cap while you're at it.

While you're doing everything else, check the lower radiator hose for wear caused by rubbing on the power steering lines. Eventually it can rub right through. I always put an aluminum sleeve on mine to prevent this.
 
RyanM said:
If it is like a 96, be careful back on the 6 cylinder, I broke my Heater valve (rotted plastic) and had to bum a ride back down to napa
Click to expand...
those heater valves are pieces of $hit.
 
call your local jeep dealer and ask for a tuneup kit. they sell the OEM mopar wires, cap and rotor all in one nice box, and around here are only like $5-10 more than buying it at the parts store.
then go to the local parts store and ask for the basic CHAMPION plugs (non of the fancy platinums or anything. just the basic champion plugs listed for that year.

then if you want, you can also pick up a fuel filter from your local parts store (around $3-5).

and before you go to the parts store, look at your serpentine belt, and just overall do a visual inspection of everything.

and if you feel up to really cleaning your vehicle, you can/should do differential fluid change, transfer case fluid change.

while you're at the parts store, pick up a chilton/hanes manual, and it'll help you get started on the right track.
 
tigerShark said:
those heater valves are pieces of $hit.
Click to expand...
The one on my stepson's 93 turned soft and chewy and just sort of fell apart one day. You could actually tear the plastic like paper. Fortunately, however, those of us who have 99's like Jeeperguy21 need not think about the valve, which does not exist on a 99. :clap:
 
At tune up time for the jeeps I hit the dealer.
Plugs, wires, caps, rotors, idler pulleys, thats for 4 jeeps. I take my tax number in and get a hefty discount :D :D :D
 
RichP said:
At tune up time for the jeeps I hit the dealer.
Plugs, wires, caps, rotors, idler pulleys, thats for 4 jeeps. I take my tax number in and get a hefty discount :D :D :D
Click to expand...

idler pulleys??? that's the first time i've heard somebody consider something like that as a tuneup/maintenance item. i've only had 1 pulley go bad in about 310,000miles.
 
To piggie back on Scorpio-Vette's suggestion on OEM Mopar wires...

Last week I did the plug wire / cap / rotor change out on my '98. At the advice of some others here, I tried out the Mopar Performance plug wires. Very well built, to size, and each wire is even labeled for its respective cylinder.

The dealer carries them, but you can find them a little cheaper at any of the Chrysler Car Parts websites. Here's the info you'll need to order them...be sure to include the "P" in front of the part number. It stands for Performance.

HIGH PERF. IGNITION WIRE SETS
P4876436 1991-99 Jeep 4.0 L in line 6 - $38.50

Ivan
 
My 1999 had 136K miles on it before I did my first and only tune up. It was running good, just figured I should probably do a tune up (wires; plugs; cap and rotor) with it having so may miles, and having never had a tune up. Not recommending this, but it just goes to show how well built they are. Never had a mechanical failure, thank God. The serpentine belt was still ok with 139K, but got replaced anyways.
 
Since a few of you mentioned the serpentine belt, I'll share a story that happened to me Monday morning.

Sunday I replaced my serpentine belt. I'm at 93K and had 40 bucks to spare. Easy job to replace. I tightened down the belt to what I thought was spec, and drove it for good measure. Checked again. Good to go.

Monday morning at 5:00 am, I hop into my frosty Jeep and begin the drive to work. The belt begins squealing like a stuck pig. Decided to drive a couple of miles to see if it would warm up. No dice. At 3 miles from home, I see the red Check Gauges light and no battery charge. Dang. Drove home, grabbed my tools, and retighted the tensioner pulley.

What I think happened is I failed to load the alternator after my warm Sunday afternoon install. Monday morning I had my lights on and rear defroster, maxing out the charge and causing major belt slippage.

While you are testing your belt after install, make sure you crank up the heater, lights, AC, and anything else to ensure your belt is nice and tight. You dont want to be late to work, cuz The Man will getcha.
 
rocknxj said:
Since a few of you mentioned the serpentine belt, I'll share a story that happened to me Monday morning.

Sunday I replaced my serpentine belt. I'm at 93K and had 40 bucks to spare. Easy job to replace. I tightened down the belt to what I thought was spec, and drove it for good measure. Checked again. Good to go.

Monday morning at 5:00 am, I hop into my frosty Jeep and begin the drive to work. The belt begins squealing like a stuck pig. Decided to drive a couple of miles to see if it would warm up. No dice. At 3 miles from home, I see the red Check Gauges light and no battery charge. Dang. Drove home, grabbed my tools, and retighted the tensioner pulley.

What I think happened is I failed to load the alternator after my warm Sunday afternoon install. Monday morning I had my lights on and rear defroster, maxing out the charge and causing major belt slippage.

While you are testing your belt after install, make sure you crank up the heater, lights, AC, and anything else to ensure your belt is nice and tight. You dont want to be late to work, cuz The Man will getcha.
Click to expand...

Or just go to NAPA and buy a Krikit. Reminds me, I've got to do that myself one of these days...
 
scorpio_vette said:
idler pulleys??? that's the first time i've heard somebody consider something like that as a tuneup/maintenance item. i've only had 1 pulley go bad in about 310,000miles.
Click to expand...


Yea, considering I only do a tune up every two years the $18 is cheap insurance and I have it already loosened up anyway. I'd like to just get the bearings and replace them in the 8 or so extra pulleys I have sitting around.
I had two go bad, both on our 97TJ's within a week of putting new belts on. On the XJ I went about 250,000mi on the original belt then did that one. It was on it's 2nd or 3rd set of plugs/wires/cap/rotor by then. Then around 300,000 I had a water pump go bad so I did the fan clutch while it was all apart. I figure if I'm that far into it I might as well replace the parts that wear in front of it so everything in that disassembly process is the same age.
 
RichP said:
At tune up time for the jeeps I hit the dealer.
Plugs, wires, caps, rotors, idler pulleys, thats for 4 jeeps. I take my tax number in and get a hefty discount :D :D :D
Click to expand...
So you get the tax off the bill? How much does it cost for one Jeep. THe labor book says 2 hours for a spark plug change for my 85 I figure that about 170.00 at the dealer.
 
scorpio_vette said:
Krikit???
Click to expand...
To be precise, a "KRIKIT II" belt tension gauge. Costs something like 12 bucks (probably more now), and reads out the tension in a primitive but effective way. If you measure your tension with a gauge you may be surprised just how tight that belt is really supposed to be.

You can get the Krikit at NAPA stores, but they don't usually carry it in stock, and most of the counter guys will not know what you're talking about, so be prepared to tell them to look in their books.
 
1985xjlaredo said:
So you get the tax off the bill? How much does it cost for one Jeep. THe labor book says 2 hours for a spark plug change for my 85 I figure that about 170.00 at the dealer.
Click to expand...

No, I pay the sales tax same as if I bought something for my business use. What I get is a business discount say for what a local garage would get.
 
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