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drop the case, stud remover method not working..

M

muddeprived

NAXJA Forum User
Location
PA
I followed the jam nut method shown here:

http://www.opiebennett.com/t-casedrop.htm

but the nuts just screw off, not the stud. I get them really tight and lined up and then rachet it off. There's tension at first and then both screw off easily. I'm afraid to overtighten them in fear of snapping the stud or stripping. Did this method work for you?
 
You need to use a wrench, not a ratchet, as the ratchet is turning both nuts. The idea is to jam the nuts together so the stud turns out. Turn the bottom nut only, after you tighten the bottom nut up & the top down into each other. If there is room, you could put a lock washer between the 2 to help them lock up beter.

Rob
 
FELIX said:
You need to use a wrench, not a ratchet, as the ratchet is turning both nuts. The idea is to jam the nuts together so the stud turns out. Turn the bottom nut only, after you tighten the bottom nut up & the top down into each other. If there is room, you could put a lock washer between the 2 to help them lock up beter.

Rob
Click to expand...

Ohhhhhhh. The instructions on the site weren't clear. I'm gonna try turning the bottom one only. After i jam them, do i loosen the stud clockwise or counter?
 
FELIX said:
The stud will come out the same way the nuts thread off.
Click to expand...

That didn't work. I tightened both nuts together as tight as i could get them and turned the lower nut. It just loosened the lower nut. I tightened them again and try with the upper nut, same thing, it loosened both nuts.

I'm just gonna get a stud extractor.
 
I wouldn't waste your money!, grab two wrenched and tighten both nuts against each other and then turn the top one (nearest the framerail) counter clockwise, or if you have a welder put the nut on halfway and weld the center of the nut to the stud and remove like normal, mines an 89 from the saltbelt so yours should be easy
 
bcmaxx said:
I wouldn't waste your money!, grab two wrenched and tighten both nuts against each other and then turn the top one (nearest the framerail) counter clockwise, or if you have a welder put the nut on halfway and weld the center of the nut to the stud and remove like normal, mines an 89 from the saltbelt so yours should be easy
Click to expand...

That's what i did. At first i tightened them so tight that it stripped one nut. So i did the same thing again with a new nut and got it just as tight as before but not strippnig it. I turned the upper nut counter-clockwise and it just loosened both nuts downwards. It's not jamming on the stud at all. My buddy has stud remover so i ain't wasting any $$ :)
 
Im thinking you have a grinder or dremel or some sort of cutting/grinding tool. Grind two sides of the stud flat so the stud isnt round anymore. Grab the two flat sides with vicegrips and start turning, works like a charm!
 
Got my stud extractor at OSH for $10. Poped those suckers right out.


Its one of those tools thats nice to have, but you only use it once in a blue moon.
When I need it again, Im sure I wont be able to find it within the depths of my toolbox, but Ill know that I could have used it.

Edit: Try using some PB Blaster on those studs. That will help loosen them up, and make it much easier to get them out.
 
1) Use a star washer, not a "split lock" washer. Split lock washers don't work worth a damn, in my experience.

2) There may be threadlocker on the studs, there are two ways to handle that...

A) Heat the case up, not the stud. This will serve to break the threadlocker (if any,) and it will cause the hole in the case to expand - making the stud easier to extract.

B) Heat the stud up to dull red (you're replacing it anyhow) and touch a block of wax to the junction of the stud and case after you remove the heat. The stud expands - forcing the hold open and breaking any threadlocker. The wax melts and seeps in between the internal and external threads, lubricating them. Only do this if you're replacing the stud anyhow!

Replacements studs can be cut from threaded rod, the inside end should be threaded 3/8"-16. Get some 3/8"-16 nuts while you're about it, since the OEM nuts are 3/8"-24.

If you're using the "two nuts" method, it's a good idea to get down close to the case casting before you try to back the thing out - the shorter the shaft is, the less it will twist (and the sooner you start applying force to break the thing loose, instead of just twisting it.)
 
"Replacements studs can be cut from threaded rod"


like ready rod?? is it strong enough?? I just took a bolt that came off and got some varios length bolts and used them rather than studs and nuts
 
bcmaxx said:
"Replacements studs can be cut from threaded rod"


like ready rod?? is it strong enough?? I just took a bolt that came off and got some varios length bolts and used them rather than studs and nuts
Click to expand...

Like "allthread" (I'm not sure what "ready rod" is...) - the threaded rod you can get from the hardware store.

The stress on those studs is not great, and allthread is usually heat-treated to around SAE4 or SAE5 strength. You could even use SAE2 screws there (but why? And they're a pain to find...) since they just keep the transfer case located on the input splines and make sure it doesn't walk away - since there's nothing actually "pushing" the transfer case away, there's no reason to get silly with fasteners there.
 
5-90 said:
Like "allthread" (I'm not sure what "ready rod" is...) - the threaded rod you can get from the hardware store.

The stress on those studs is not great, and allthread is usually heat-treated to around SAE4 or SAE5 strength. You could even use SAE2 screws there (but why? And they're a pain to find...) since they just keep the transfer case located on the input splines and make sure it doesn't walk away - since there's nothing actually "pushing" the transfer case away, there's no reason to get silly with fasteners there.
Click to expand...

I think you are talking about different studs, the op is talking about the studs holding the crossmember to the "frame"
 
98XJLimitedNateWV said:
I think you are talking about different studs, the op is talking about the studs holding the crossmember to the "frame"
Click to expand...

Could be. If you're talking about the crossmember studs, then yes do get decent screws to replace those!

I thought we were talking about the studs that hold the transfer case to the transmission...

You can get studs, tho, and I'd suggest at least one on each side. Saves wrestling with the thing to get fasteners started...
 
Just find someone with a welder and have a nut welded on for removal. I tried everything else first and actually broke the welded nut off twice before it worked. Had to Loosen and tighten about 1/32 of a turn at a time for about half an hour to finally get them out. Damn salt!!
 
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