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Flexplate to Crank Bolts
- Thread starter ROBZ95Xj
- Start date
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
Unbolt and pull the tranny back far enough to get to the flexplate bolts.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
ROBZ95Xj said:finally got it off, used a breker bar on one bolt and wedged the bar againsed the lower control arm and used a 1/2" rachet with cheater bar on the others, worked like a charm
BTW is it a good or bad thing when the flexplate comes out in 2 pieces?
That's about it - or impact. If you end up using heat, plan on replacing the screws (get OEM, or you can find a set from ARP. I don't recall the part number, but it's a Pontiac kit - 6 pcs 1/2"-20 x .590") Enough heat to break the LocTite will usually wreck the heat-treatment as well (and, if you do use heat, use a pencil torch on the centre of the screw head only.)
The flexplate should come out in one piece only - if it comes out in two, that's a Bad Thing (TM,) and it should be replaced.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Even if you don't have an impact (I don't,) there are a couple of things you can do...
1) Wedge something to hold the flexplate in place while you loosen the screws. Just break them loose, and you can remove the wedge. Don't bother with the nose bolt - it doesn't work about half of the time...
2) Fetch each screw one good whack on the head with a mallet. WARNING - this can play Hell with the thrust clearances for your crankshaft, and I should probably have listed it as a "weapon of last resort."
3) Use a pencil torch, and heat each screw up in the centre of the head. You can go to a dull red with this - but if you do use heat, it's damn near mandatory to replace the screws. You'll wreck the heat treatment doing the job...
4) Buy an impact gun - air or electric. Even using a hammer drill with a socket adapter is a step in the right direction - and can give you a "double duty" tool anyhow.
5) Use a strap wrench to hold the HD, if you have removed the belt beforehand. It's a bit difficult, and works better with a helper, but it's doable (I've done it once.)
1) Wedge something to hold the flexplate in place while you loosen the screws. Just break them loose, and you can remove the wedge. Don't bother with the nose bolt - it doesn't work about half of the time...
2) Fetch each screw one good whack on the head with a mallet. WARNING - this can play Hell with the thrust clearances for your crankshaft, and I should probably have listed it as a "weapon of last resort."
3) Use a pencil torch, and heat each screw up in the centre of the head. You can go to a dull red with this - but if you do use heat, it's damn near mandatory to replace the screws. You'll wreck the heat treatment doing the job...
4) Buy an impact gun - air or electric. Even using a hammer drill with a socket adapter is a step in the right direction - and can give you a "double duty" tool anyhow.
5) Use a strap wrench to hold the HD, if you have removed the belt beforehand. It's a bit difficult, and works better with a helper, but it's doable (I've done it once.)
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Sears just had the 33 gallon 1.6 hp compressor on sail for $299 with a free 10 piece air tools set (impact, air ratchet, and air hammer)
I just got it, been having some fun this weekend.
It was online, just bring it in.
In the store they had the 26 gallon on sale for the same price but they knew about the 33 gallon being the same price. Go figure.
I just got it, been having some fun this weekend.
It was online, just bring it in.
In the store they had the 26 gallon on sale for the same price but they knew about the 33 gallon being the same price. Go figure.
lawsoncl
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- North Idaho
It's nice to see Sears has stop lying about the HP on their compressors. Mine says 5.5 HP but draws 10-amps at 120 volts which is 1.6 HP. The next model year with the exact same compressor says 6.5 HP.
dont worry got a brand new mopar flexplate waiting to go in, i just need to get a new rear main and oilpan gasket and figure it be alot eisier to replace those with the tranny out, and as far as bolts the stealership will be gettin a visit from me this week5-90 said:
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
lawsoncl said:
Yeah, it's strange the 26 gallon tank was the same price and on sale in store though althogh the 33 gallon was also on sale for the same price but not advertised in store.
Oh well it's quieter than any compressor I've heard and does its job.
Jeepm@n
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern, WI
Hmmm being I repair dental veterinary and medical equipment I get a new compressor about every other month. All with fast recovery and about as close to medical grade air as you can get. Thanks to them updating or upgrading to an oilless head or the filters cost too much to replace lol. I knew there was a reason I loved my job:cheers:
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
These compressors are oilless - but is there any benefit to adding a little oil canister inline with your tool hose? Or is that pointless?
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Jeepm@n said:
Got any lying about? Specs?
We don't really need filters for our uses - you could make a decent little sideline out of this, you know... (especially if they can be converted to run on 12VDC, or draw relatively low current - like under 10A...)
Jeepm@n
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern, WI
They are usually 2hp or better up to 4hp twin head 220 vac or 480 vac 3 phase. There are some 120VAC but then your talking almost 15-17AMps at start up on just one head. Most have a 40gallon tank though. I just stack the tanks to get me 80 gallons of air. As far as oilers inline I have 2 separate lines one that goes to an oiler for my impacts and one oilless for the spray guns and tire chuck. An extra I'd be glad to keep an eye out for one for yah 5-90 but I think shipping from the Great White north to yah may not be worth it in the long run. If your out here though they weigh in the neighborhood of 212lbs. Some have an oiled McKesson style twincylinder head. The ones I run have 3 cylinder oilless heads with twin 2hp electric drive motors. Noisy becuse they are oilless but hey turn the radio up louder.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Jeepm@n said:
I didn't think they'd be that big! Seems to me most medical tools are fairly small, and wouldn't need a lot of air...
As far as shipping, I do visit the Midwest on a semi-regular basis (family in Monon, IN and Terre Haute, IN) so that should simplify things. So, keep a half an eye out, please, especially for something a bit smaller!
I guess I'd just pictured them being smaller (somewhere between a Viair and a small garage compressor,) which is why I'd thought of the 12V conversion. Medical stuff does tend to be pretty damn solid...
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
So is running oil in an oilless system asking for problems?
Are there ANY benefits to doing so? Or only bad?
Are there ANY benefits to doing so? Or only bad?
