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Bolt in roll cage damage report

Do you own a bolt-in cage?

  • Yes, but never rolled my XJ with it.

    Votes: 9 27.3%

  • Yes, and I did roll my XJ with it.

    Votes: 2 6.1%

  • I have no cage at all, and I have rolled my XJ.

    Votes: 22 66.7%
  • Total voters
    33
Trail-Axe

Trail-Axe

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I'm interested in hearing from some folks who have a bolt-in roll-cage, and have rolled their XJ. If you don't have a bolt in cage, but was with someone who does and you got to see it as it rolled, or right after, that’s cool too. Please include pics if ya got them.

The only bolt-in cage I have seen in an XJ is this one: http://www.rockhard4x4parts.com/xj-96.html The manufacturer claims that the bolt together sections are stronger then if they were welded. He claims 4-people to his knowledge have rolled their XJ with this cage installed, and one might have died with out it. Anyone have this particular cage? Anyone have a different bolt-in cage?

I know some of you are just chomping at the bit to flame this thread with your comments about why you think a bolt in cage is a bad idea, but please give me a break this time around. I agree, a weld in cage is best, but this thread is to gather info on how a bolt-in cage performed during a roll over. Maybe they are a bad idea, but let’s find out from those who have them and have rolled them. Thanks ahead of time!
 
I've heard they're fine... BUT, for an average wheeler that's not going to be too extreme and get into situations where hard rolls are possible.

But for that price "unpainted"... it just doesn't make sense to buy it.. There's barely any triangulation and I just dont like trusting my life with bolt together clamps..

Also there are plenty of cages out there for less or even have a shop bulid you one for around the same amount.

I think the RockHard bolt in cage is better than no cage at all and it must work or they wouldn't still me making them, right?
 
I'd say it's probably not a bad starting point. Start welding in more triangulation and reinforcements at the mounting points and you could have a nice solid cage.
 
i havent been running a cage, flopped it once and just bent lots of sheet metal, didnt hurt the structural integrety of the roof at all as it didnt roll, its going to be seeing a cage very soon though, and its cheaper to build one if you have the time and tools then to buy one, I think if i rolled it, it would be flattened
 
mjma said:
I'd say it's probably not a bad starting point. Start welding in more triangulation and reinforcements at the mounting points and you could have a nice solid cage.
Click to expand...

Kind of defeats the purpose of a "bolt-in" cage doesn't it? I would think that most who go with the Bolt-In Cage plan to take it in and out each wheeling trip... :confused1 Not really but the option of removal gets more difficult if you have bolted in peices with tube welded to them...
 
UNCC:
I would think that most who go with the Bolt-In Cage plan to take it in and out each wheeling trip...
Click to expand...

Never thought about that. The white XJ that you see in all the Rubicon Express lift kit ads and in their current 2008 catalog has this same bolt in cage. The guy who owns it works for RE, and said it was a real bear to install. So I'm thinking that kind of rules out taking it in and out.

As far as a weld in cage, I was quoted 2-3K, which included complete removal and re-install of all burnable items in the Jeep that could not be protected otherwise. I know in some parts of this country it’s a whole lot cheaper, but not so in others. So if this bolt in cage is a good starting point, and one where to add a few bars of triangulation to it, then the price may be reasonable.

Sure would be nice to talk to some members here who have a bolt in cage and get their input as well.
 
2 grand for a weld in cage???? look towards http://www.dandcextreme.com/product_template.asp?pkID=126 and see how much they'd charge for the welding. there isn't much burnable stuff if you pull the carpet and seats. or just lay down some tarps over everything.

the bolt-in cage from RockHard is kinda steep. strong enough (at least on TJs) but pretty expensive. but if you don't have a welder or good friends with somebody with one, then I guess it's a good option. :)
 
4xsanta has/had a bolt in modified D&C cage and rolled ass over nose 5 times and is OK. Can't say the same for the rig.

After modding the cage it was 17 points I beleive.
 
JCR's website quotes XJ weld-in cages starting at $650. I had that in my 91 XJ, and even though I never rolled it, their basic cage was worth it. Even if you modify their plan and add stuff, you are still about $400 ahead than Rockhard's bolt-in. Course you have to get your rig to Kalamazoo, MI for that to happen, but that would be worth it IMO.
 
link doesnt work
 
TellicoReadyXJ said:
JCR's website quotes XJ weld-in cages starting at $650. I had that in my 91 XJ, and even though I never rolled it, their basic cage was worth it. Even if you modify their plan and add stuff, you are still about $400 ahead than Rockhard's bolt-in. Course you have to get your rig to Kalamazoo, MI for that to happen, but that would be worth it IMO.
Click to expand...

I would have JCR do it for sure if I lived closer to them. I have spoken to them, and I like their customer service. They are working on another project for me as we speak. I did consider having them do the cage, but it would cost me $812.00 (round trip) just in fuel. Not to mention the time off work, meals, and lodging. So for me, it would not be worth it at all, but thanks for the input. :)
 
Last edited:
I think when you start really looking at having someone build you a cage for an XJ, it is quite expensive. The key, like some have pointed out, would be having a friend with a bender, welding skills, and a good welder, not to mention time. I'm perdy sure I spoke with someone from D&C a while back, and the man I spoke with said that they will not be installing anymore XJ cages. He said it just takes way too much time.
 
Last edited:
dgrigorenko said:
link doesnt work
Click to expand...

It looks like a session dependent link. Just search for Cherokee on the S&W site.

I had one of their cages in my Challenger back in my bracket racing days and was very happy with it. Luckly I never got to test it. I've dealt with them narrowing rears and other work and they were great to deal with.
 
KRAKER said:
4xsanta has/had a bolt in modified D&C cage and rolled ass over nose 5 times and is OK. Can't say the same for the rig.

After modding the cage it was 17 points I beleive.
Click to expand...

The D&C cage is a weld together cage not a bolt together cage and is only $550 plus they quoted me about $180 tops to ship to anywhere in the U.S.
 
I have the rock hard bolt in kit....

I got a great deal on it because they sponsor our race truck. Here is my opinion on it:

I think it is stronger than nothing at all, a moderate speed rollover will definitely be safer with one of these. Is it as good as a weld in, of course not. Can you use this as a starting point, absolutely.

I added TNT chasis stiffeners to the unibody, and then welded in to the foot plates for the a and b pillar of the bolt in cage, and I can tel you it feels very solid. I will continue to add some triangulation, but again, it was an easy way to start off a cage.

I feel comfortable that it has made my ride safer to be able to go out and chase for the jeepspeeders out there..

Again, just my 2 cents!
 
tcm glx said:
I have the rock hard bolt in kit....
I got a great deal on it because they sponsor our race truck. Here is my opinion on it:
I think it is stronger than nothing at all, a moderate speed rollover will definitely be safer with one of these. Is it as good as a weld in, of course not. Can you use this as a starting point, absolutely. I added TNT chasis stiffeners to the unibody, and then welded in to the foot plates for the a and b pillar of the bolt in cage, and I can tel you it feels very solid. I will continue to add some triangulation, but again, it was an easy way to start off a cage.I feel comfortable that it has made my ride safer to be able to go out and chase for the jeepspeeders out there..Again, just my 2 cents!
Click to expand...

Thanks for your 2-cents. -I Really appreciate the feed back. :)
 
I have seen an xj roll with no cage and it wasnt all that bad. the only protection the xj had was a very sturdy roof rack. It actually didnt roll, it did a backflip and the most damage was done to the front windshield (completely destroyed). and the driver had a pretty bruised ego for being so stupid
 
well from talking to alot of fabricators and people that do this type of work a cage that is bolt in with minimal triangulation and frame tie ins is good for 1 roll - but if you wheel hard or on a steep hill, etc the cage that is welded together with triangulation, gussets, frame tie ins and good use of spreaders will save you on the second and third or even fourth roll over - also it is important that a cage is a life saving device and DOM is probally the most widely used material for cages unless you got the $ for moly - HREW is common too but not as strong as DOM - now i have seen cages built with hrew and have lived a lot of rolls and trail damage - it really depends on the design and the builder - good welds and design are crucial for any cage - the bolt in aspect appeals to me for the everyday day consumer that does not have an endmill, bender or welder. prefabbed sport cages have grown to be very popular but are not very impressive from a structural standpoint. i only wish to emphesize that a bolt in cage like rock hard 4x4 kit is better than nothing and possibly could save a life on one good roll over at low speeds - anymore than that and it could become hazardous - eveyone knows that safety equipment is no substitute for safe driving - i think most people i have encountered in the jeep world know there limits with their rig and driving style. anyways, as a good start? sure.
 
aparke4 said:
well from talking to alot of fabricators and people that do this type of work a cage that is bolt in with minimal triangulation and frame tie ins is good for 1 roll - but if you wheel hard or on a steep hill, etc the cage that is welded together with triangulation, gussets, frame tie ins and good use of spreaders will save you on the second and third or even fourth roll over - also it is important that a cage is a life saving device and DOM is probally the most widely used material for cages unless you got the $ for moly - HREW is common too but not as strong as DOM - now i have seen cages built with hrew and have lived a lot of rolls and trail damage - it really depends on the design and the builder - good welds and design are crucial for any cage - the bolt in aspect appeals to me for the everyday day consumer that does not have an endmill, bender or welder. prefabbed sport cages have grown to be very popular but are not very impressive from a structural standpoint. i only wish to emphesize that a bolt in cage like rock hard 4x4 kit is better than nothing and possibly could save a life on one good roll over at low speeds - anymore than that and it could become hazardous - eveyone knows that safety equipment is no substitute for safe driving - i think most people i have encountered in the jeep world know there limits with their rig and driving style. anyways, as a good start? sure.
Click to expand...

That’s a good point. (Multiple roll over)

My bolt in cage arrived very quickly. I placed my order for it and 4-days later here it is! I plan on tying it into the frame, and adding some triangulation to it as well. The front hoop, center hoop, and rear hoop are all one piece welded. The bolt together parts tie the hoops together and appear very strong. The whole thing weighs like 160 lbs.

Six 3/8" X 1-1/2” bolts go through each beefy looking clamp that are welded to the ends of the connector tubes. I am no engineer, but I think that after this is all tied into the frame, it will be a perdy good cage. Hopefully it never gets the ultimate test, and helps to stiffen up the rig some. :)

I'm considering having it powder coated before I install it. This will subject the tubes to 400 degree heat for 30 minutes. Any of you engineer types see any problems with this?

Thanks in advance
 
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