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flexplate change...how hard, or how much?

C

citRon

NAXJA Forum User
Location
loohaville kentuck
96 4.0 4x4 with AW4 auto. 93,000 miles. Sick and tired of the rocks-in-a-can rattling coming from the flexplate/torque converter. Bolts are tight on the plate, can't seem to see any cracks, so I'm guessing there way up there around the center, or it's a bad torque converter. Either way, I need it fixed. I'm sure it's not good to keep driving it like this. So...is this a do-able job for me in the garage with hand/air tools? Or how much would it likely be if I found a mechanic that works on the side to do it? Any experience with this?
 
TOTALY doable. drop the transfer case & trans. Floor jack is your friend.
 
If you replace two bolts on opposing sides with extra long ones about 6 inches you're not gonna have to drop your trans/case. Just slide it back enough to get a wrench in there.
 
Reviving an old(er) thread...as i'm just now starting this job! -KRAKER- I'm doing exactly as you said- pulling it back just far enough to mess with it. I have my driveshafts removed, starter off so far. What size are the bolts holding the driveplate on? Worthless Haynes manual has no sizes listed.
 
citRon said:
Reviving an old(er) thread...as i'm just now starting this job! -KRAKER- I'm doing exactly as you said- pulling it back just far enough to mess with it. I have my driveshafts removed, starter off so far. What size are the bolts holding the driveplate on? Worthless Haynes manual has no sizes listed.
Click to expand...

Those screws are 1/2"-20 threaded "place bolts", and are generally not available at the hardware store. They may be available at a Diesel shop or a tractor shop, or you can get them from ARP (use the kit for the Pontiac - I don't have the part number to hand.)

The screws for the torque converter are also "place bolts" - I believe they're threaded M10-1.0.

The "place" head is different from the standard head, and a standard hex head or a socket head will actually be weaker in this application! The "place" head has an undercut near the shank that allows the head to make more full contact with the flat surface underneath it for applications like this.
 
Ok, so far I have the f/r driveshafts off, starter off, the shifter cable disconnected, top and bottom bellhousing bolts removed, and waiting to get an e12 socket for the top two bolts. Do I need to disconnect the 4x4 shifting bracket off of either the tranny or the t-case?
...and then next, am I removing the crossmember bolts to then be able to move it back?
 
Make sure both shifters (transmission and transfer case) are disconnected from the cases - that gives you room. You'll have to disconnect the crossmember from the framerails, but you can leave it in place as a jacking point. Lower and pull the transmission/transfer case back.

Replace the external Torx screws with hex head screws - they're threaded 3/8"-16, and just match the length under the head (take one with you to select.) SAE5 or SAE8 will work, the strain on them is not great.
 
Awesome- do the shifters just 'pop' off, as it looks like they would? -The tranny shifter cable popped off easy.


(off topic, what ever happened to Sam and Max?)
 
citRon said:
Awesome- do the shifters just 'pop' off, as it looks like they would? -The tranny shifter cable popped off easy.


(off topic, what ever happened to Sam and Max?)
Click to expand...

The transfer case shifter is retained with a single nut, so you can just unscrew that and use a screwdriver to pop the lever off.

Sam & Max came out on DVD last month - I ran out and got a copy! Considering some of the asininity I've seen coming out on DVD, I wonder what took them so damn long... Picked up the new Appleseed movie as well (Appleseed: Ex Machina) but haven't had a chance to watch it yet.
 
@#$!%&*^!!!! I can't get the passenger side top external torx head bolt off. The drivers side was relatively painless with a 2 1/2 foot extension. The passenger side- I can't even see it! I can barely get a hand up there to feel it, but even with the long extension, can't seem to get the socket on there.
I have the tranny lowered a couple of inches on a floor jack, by taking out the crossmember bolts. Do I need to remove the exhaust to get it to drop more?
 
I was brave and let the trans/t-case drop all the the way (fwiw I do have poly motor mounts) and lifted it enough to take the load off the mounts. You sould be able to get to it "easily". If not, put a very very small amount of rtv in the socket (not too much, sucks royally to clean up), feel and set the socket and go from there.
Good luck, they do suck to change
 
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