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New guy with a couple Q's

S

S2Kstephen

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Virginia
I picked up a 98 XJ about 10 months and only recently started getting on the forums and learning about 'em. I drive the Jeep on the weekends/going out/ around town driving for now. I hope to take it to the trails next spring

The specs are:
98, 4.0HO, Auto
Mods: Dana 30, Chrysler 8 1/4 rear, AA SYE, Tom Woods DS, NP231 TC, RE adj trackbar, JKS disconnects, 32x10.5 BFG's

Lift: Currently has a Rusty's 4.5" w/ full replacment leaf pack

My Q's are:
1) I'm looking at the RE 5.5HD lift kit. Do I need anything other than what I have to install the kit?

2) On RE's site, it offers different shock options: twin tube or mono. Suggestions? I don't plan on ordering from RE directly...have a suggestion?

Lastly) I'm running 32's with trimmed OEM fenders/flairs...and I'd like to put 35's on. I'm currently running 32x10.5...possible to run 35x10.5 with cutting of the fenders and no flairs? What size 35's should I run?

I think thats all the Q's I have now, but I'm sure I'll have more.

Thanks guys!
-Stephen
 
imo, yer pretty much set for drive train but wise minds will tell you to baby it on 35's. However gearing is going to suck if it's stock (3.55). Do you know what your diff ratio is?

Also cutting is always required :lecture:
 
My Q's are:

1) I'm looking at the RE 5.5HD lift kit. Do I need anything other than what I have to install the kit?
Click to expand...
If it has brand new springs i wouldn't waste the money. If you want to trim less just get a spacer and a shackle or something don't buy a whole new kit. If it has a rusty's trackbar you may want to get a JKS or TNT trackbar for durability.


2) On RE's site, it offers different shock options: twin tube or mono. Suggestions? I don't plan on ordering from RE directly...have a suggestion?
Click to expand...
Look at Bilsteins and OMEs

Lastly) I'm running 32's with trimmed OEM fenders/flairs...and I'd like to put 35's on. I'm currently running 32x10.5...possible to run 35x10.5 with cutting of the fenders and no flairs? What size 35's should I run?
Click to expand...
Yep you can run 35s on 4.5 inches of lift with trimming. As far as width depends on your BS and wheel width up to you really.


lance
 
If you decide to go much higher than 4.5"(via poly spacers/shackles or taller springs), you'll need to address your steering...your rod-ends will be just about maxed out. I didn't see any steering mods on your list, so I assume you are running the stock "Y" set-up. Might want to get a 'dropped' Pitman [3" drop if you're anywhere close to 6" of lift] and go with a 'knucle-to-knuckle' tie rod with a separate drag link. You MIGHT get away with a 3" drop Pitman with your stock set-up...but its a time bomb...especially on 35's. Go ahead and replace your track bar bushings while its in the air to stave off death wobble. **(Go ahead and save your $$$ for some 4.88 R&P's, you'll have trouble taking an H2 off the line at a traffic light with 4.56's on 35's...thats what I'm running...I could kick myself for that install)
 
I have a RE adj trackbar sitting in my room...

Would the JCR 1-ton steering upgrade prevent the possible steering problems?

The mods on my Jeep were done in 2001, so things are starting to wear out...thats what I'm budgeting replacing with "kits" vs. replacing particular pieces.
 
The RE HD 5.5" kit is an excellent kit. That, plus steering (yes, JCR would work) and an SYE (you already have) and you are covered. There are very few rusty's products I would trust my life to - there's a reason half the forum talks shit on rusty's products, and the other half is just waiting for their turn to see it fail big.

I'd put alloy rear shafts in the 8.25 (~$220) to run 35's, but then wouldn't hesitate. Wouldnt hurt to put alloys up front too, but the rear would be a good start.

As far as shocks goes, if you're not buying them with the kit - get Bilstien 5150's. A much better shock for not much more money.

The adjustable trackbar in your room - is it a 1600 or 1660? (HD or non?). I wouldn't run the 1600 (it has a heim joint at the top) with more than 4.5" of lift, you over articulate and start tearing up the upper joint with any more lift.

As far as what size 35's .. how about 35 inch tall 35's? I'm a fan of MT/R's for a general use trail rig, unless you see a lot of mud, in which look at truxus MT's or BFG MT's.
 
theNAST1EST said:
did the 8.25 even come with anything but 3.55 from factory??
Click to expand...

Yes.
4.0 auto=3.55 ----some with towing package got 3.73
2.5 auto=4.10
2.5 manual=3.73

Not sure about manual. I think less than 3.55, but not sure.
 
You may have to get a longer drive shaft or shim the rear axel. May also have to get longer brake lines. As far as the shocks go the twin valve are good for a DD or slow off-road use. The mono-tube is more for high speed off road like baja or jumping sand dunes ect. If money is no object then go for the mono, otherwise the twin should do just fine.
 
BlackHole XJ said:
You may have to get a longer drive shaft or shim the rear axel. May also have to get longer brake lines. As far as the shocks go the twin valve are good for a DD or slow off-road use. The mono-tube is more for high speed off road like baja or jumping sand dunes ect. If money is no object then go for the mono, otherwise the twin should do just fine.
Click to expand...


The 5.5" kit he's looking at comes with lines, and he already has an SYE with driveshaft and 4.5" of lift. If thats working for him, he's probably already got the correct angles - and going from 4.5" to 5.5-6" won't change things enough that he needs to re-adjust or lengthen the shaft.
 
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