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What have I got myself into

unclethumbtack

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Seneca MO
Alright I am a newbie to the xj scene, I have a 2000 xj that is my dd, but I recently traded my 81 cherk http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/bartley2838/Cherk/ for a 96 xj with 4.0 aw4 np231 with 8 inches of lift, 35 inch BFG M/T 4.10 gears. Here is where you all come in here is the problems I have found.
1. Aluminum lift blocks in the rear - I dont mind blocks, the flatter the spring the smoother the ride but aluminum is terrible, I know this from experience.
2. Trac bar has been cut, extended and rewelded, but still not centering the axle, maybe a drop bracket needed?
3. Rubs on fenders, I will trim them out.
4. Rear sway bar still on.
5. One of the axle tube seals is leaking.
6. No pitman arm, How much pitman arm is needed?
7. No SYE
I have been lurking around here for awhile but now I need some answers. Like is it necessary to put stiffeners on?
I already have acquired a 79 ford F-150 4x4 to do a full size swap, but I plan on wheeling it like it is for a while after I get the problems I have pointed out fixed. I look forward to any input, and wheeling with some of you some time, I wheel missouri, oklahoma, arkansas, kansas area.
 
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1. I'd lower it to 6" and trim more. Very few people in the history of lifting XJ's have been happy with 8" of lift.
2. I'd get an adjustable trackbar, RE, JKS, etc.
4. Take it off.
5. Which axle, front or rear. I've only changed out the front. Not too hard. Have a length of 2" pipe.
7. If you can live with whatever vibes you have, you can live without a SYE. I think the 96 231 leaks when the slip yoke is removed, as in when the rear driveshaft comes off.

If you have the D-35 rear axle, get plenty of spare shafts.

Most people live without stiffeners. If you are going to be landing your frame rails on big rocks a lot, I'd put the TNT stiffeners on first.

My .02.

Fred
 
I wouldn't even drive it with a cut and rewelded trac bar sounds like you need a new adj. trac bar RE makes a nice one.

Take off the rearsway bar for more flex.

Mad XJ has a nice tech article on triming fenders and reusing the factory flares, my buddy used it looks good.

I won't answer the other stuff cus I don't know

:patriot:
 
its the front axle leaking. It has the 8.25 rear end. I cant really tell how much lift is on it, just what I was told. I am afraid if I drop it to 6 inches then the 35's will really run in the back because I cant trim it as much.
 
Bump stops are your friend.. this will limit flex but save tires/fenders
 
mikeforte said:
PICTURES we need pictures.
I will grab some pix this week and post them. It is suppose to have 6 inch lift coils with 2 inch spacer so if that is true I could just take the spacer out. It is an off-road only rig I am always scared I am going to pull the sy out of the t/c. I will trim the fenders to no end if I have to I know I am going to get body damage on the trails.
 
1. No block is a good block...... you may think that flatter is better, but in all actuallity your block will cause axle wrap and a "flatter" spring will wrap a lot quicker. Use shackles to correct pinion angle too.

2. Buy a "real" track bar. RE 1660 with HD TB bracket works wonders.

3. Trimming is fun....... you can get 35s on 4.5in with major trimming so 6in will be easy. I run 33 TSL Swampers with mild trimming (and mine stuffs)

4. toss it........... totally useless on street too.

5. pull axle and replace seal.

6. Huh? who what?? you mean no "extended" pitman arm. run a stocker, you will be fine.

7.go buy a sye........ one of those "dont be cheap" things. it will save you


have fun wheeling those areas with full widths............ :doh:
 
unclethumbtack said:
its the front axle leaking. It has the 8.25 rear end. I cant really tell how much lift is on it, just what I was told. I am afraid if I drop it to 6 inches then the 35's will really run in the back because I cant trim it as much.

They will fit, I can fit 35s at ~5" and haven't done major trimming. I just trimmed a little and bent the seam over, just don't cut the spot welds. I also run 33s, but it's just because I'm not geared for 35s yet, not because they won't fit.

Bumpstops are also your friend.


PornstaR said:
1. No block is a good block...... you may think that flatter is better, but in all actuallity your block will cause axle wrap and a "flatter" spring will wrap a lot quicker. Use shackles to correct pinion angle too.

2. Buy a "real" track bar. RE 1660 with HD TB bracket works wonders.

3. Trimming is fun....... you can get 35s on 4.5in with major trimming so 6in will be easy. I run 33 TSL Swampers with mild trimming (and mine stuffs)

4. toss it........... totally useless on street too.

5. pull axle and replace seal.

6. Huh? who what?? you mean no "extended" pitman arm. run a stocker, you will be fine.

7.go buy a sye........ one of those "dont be cheap" things. it will save you


have fun wheeling those areas with full widths............ :doh:
YES :lecture:

Another thing you will want to consider is gears. 4.10s and 35s isn't exactly the best combo. You can only go to 4.56s with the 8.25, but 4.88s would be ideal.

Also, what is the control arm setup? Does it have long arms or drop brackets?
 
1. If they are 2" blocks, pull out the block and the 2" coil spacers so you are at 6". Trim and bumpstop accordingly.
2. Get the RE HD tracbar, bracket and brace. Right now I am at about 6.5" in front and the tracbar is as extended as I am comfortable making it. They are not really good for 8" but they are great for 6" (see #1).
3. Trim (see #1)
4. Discard
5. Don't know
6. Factory "drop" in pitman arm (see#2 and #1).
7. Get SYE and CV rear driveshaft
 
Not nessicarily. spring rates are different in between coils. My stock coils and my Rusty's 3" coils were the same length but the stockers compressed more.
 
:huh: Its late.. I'm sorry.. haha
 
unclethumbtack said:
Yeah but they are under the same amount of load while installed. So they should even out and be at the correct length for measuring, right?

So this means you have a stock XJ sitting around to measure? Then yes you can measure the springs while the vehicles are sitting on flat ground. An easier (to me) way is to measure from the center of the hub to a line on the body above the hub.
 
With 8 inches of lift and the rear sway bar still on. This XJ was not to go off road much. Just inpress little kids and girls. See them all the time around here. Without the sway bar it will ride like a boat.
Cut fenders drop 4 or whatever inches. Ajust stops to need. Then see see if axle line up.
Then drop rear sway if more rear flex is needed else it ant hurting a dam thing. Same with front. Luck
 
Dude, don't drop down from 8". Done right you'll be fine. I have 8+ on my DD and I cruise to work at 80mph no prob.
Get the SYE if it's going to go offroad.
Get long arms cause at anything over 4.5" you need them and the ride is so much better with them.
Pitman arm? I've got the stock one, no drop. Steering at 8" is an issue but has been covered on NAXJA so much I'm not going to get into it.
Clayton's has real nice stuff ie trackbars, steering setups, LA, check out his website or you can even call and talk to the man himself for some options.

Cheers
 
Waterhammer said:
Dude, don't drop down from 8". Done right you'll be fine. I have 8+ on my DD and I cruise to work at 80mph no prob.

On the road 8" may look "cool", but if you actually wheel it, the high COG will eventually get the better of you.
 
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