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Engine Flush

RTFM

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Southern I-De-Ho
OK the 98 I6 4x4 I just bought has a lot of junk in the valve cover (sludge)
Does anyone have any comments on the oil like engine flush additives (Pennzoil - Amsoil - et all)?

Do they do any good?
Do they do any harm?

Other than a full tear down and rebuild (next year?) looking for options to desludge the ole' girl.


Thanks


RTFM
 
i would pull the valve cover off, clean it with some type of scraping tool and brake fluid, scrap the excess sludge around the rockers/springs and pick up with a vacuum cleaner. i would not try to clean the top end with any type of flush
 
You can clean out the valve cover for sure, make sure that you remove the towers on heach end and clean those as well.

Personally, I flush my oil with an additive ever couple of oil changes. Pour it in the oil, run for 5 min, then drop the oil. If you have never done it on a high miliage care you will not believe the crap that will come out.

I am a fan
 
If the engine runs and sounds good, leave well alone. A flush will dislodge big chunks of crap in a heavily sludged engine and likely clog the pickup screen. Clean it when you rebuild it next year. You don't want to have to rebuild it now due to a rod knock from a starved bearing.

Joe
 
Try some Auto-Rx....some people even use SeaFoam. if you do decide to do a flush, afterwards, refill with 5 quarts oil, 1 quart Lucas Oil Stabilizer.

Best bet is to just run a good motor oil like Castrol GTX. Stay away from Pennzoil....
 
JNickel101 said:
Yes, thousands of people must be wrong....
Well said. Lucas is shit, no Zinc, Ph, Boron, Moly... no anti wears.... so what the hell is it??poop
 
Hey all: Thanks for the input.
If the engine runs and sounds good, leave well alone. A flush will dislodge big chunks of crap in a heavily sludged engine and likely clog the pickup screen

Makes a lot of sense to me. I have only had it for a week, I may not need to upset the applecart. Pull the valve cover, hand clean and if it's running "well" then let sleeping dogs lie, and look forward to a rebuild in Spring 08'


RTFM
 
Oh god, this debate again....

its funny, if it really foamed like that, you'd think i'd notice it every time i changed my oil...hmmmmm....
 
Oil's come with additives in them, no need to add any. Esp. why dump all this molasses in there?. You say for thicker viscosity, I say run a diesel oil. Heavy Duty with lots of ZDDP:thumbup:
 
I've been running GTX solid for 30k miles in mine and it's never missed a beat. I live in Memphis when I'm not on the road so 10-40 is all I use. Really it just depends how much you expect to get out of it. The most that any hi-end synthetic is gonna net you before a rebuild is 30k miles... bloody hell people you can rebuild these 4.0s in situ in 1 or 2 days if you know what you are doing, the cost of these hi end synthetics really adds up especially if you get an expensive one and don't do the recommended longer intervals. (which i wouldn't). Save your money and buy better tools to make you more productive.

Just my .02.
 
you run your conventional 12,000 miles?(not saying I do, but oil reports prove it.) THe only dino I would run are the diesal's and GTX. the new GTX SM is showing high zinc. Oil reports on my rig running RP and Rotella syn 5-40, show a well wearing long life 4.0, rebuild? I'd rather build a cage :greensmok
 
My feeling is that most of the time when people run expensive synthetics, they are usually just the ones who are scared shitless of rebuilding an engine.

I change my GTX every 3k and my engine will probably get around 250k at least. And if it doesn't, I couldn't care less. And I have more than enough time to do any other mods I want as well as spend 1 day rebuilding a 4.0. Really the ONLY tricky thing about it is the last to bolts on the combo manifold. These 91-99s have like no emissions plumbing, which I greatly appreciate because my first projects were all german. First was a 944, to be exact - an electrical and vac nightmare. I always ran the best oil money could buy in that thing. : )
 
RyanM, can you explain "oil reports". I have heard people refer to this before, but i'm unsure what it is...

Might be something I should look into - and FWIW, I think I'll be sticking to JUST Castrol GTX (read the forums on that website you referenced....I feel dumb now). Thanks for pointing me to that link.

What do you mean the "new" GTX? Is the "high mileage" formula considered an SM?

This might help me as well as RTFM - thanks!
 
Used Oil Analysis. Shows Wear metals, Anti-wear elements, active additives., viscotity, flash point. Pick one of the few test labs, run your motor(not idle) for 20 minutes, drain, catch some oil in the midstream of drain. Put it in the bottle and container they give you, and mail it to them. They will mail and email you the results.

They will let you know if you have any water or antifreeze (Na) in the sample. They will tell you if you need to change air filters (most of the time telling you to stop using a k&n) as it supposaly lets more dirt and dust in (silicon on the report) Sodium and Silicon are no good! I am lucky to get good results with my cone k&n.

The 4.0 is known for spitting iron (i think average 30 parts per million). A lot beleive its from the timing chain, but with regular changes, it's not a problem.


"new" oils have reduced ZDDP.(800ppm)(search) SM is the new API standard . GTX is a good Dino and shows good(higher than reg.) zinc and ph levels. I run the diesel syn Rotella 5w-40. With over 1200ppm zinc and phos, its up to the task and shows.

Look on the back of the bottle, sometimes you can get lucky and find some SL stuff with the 1000ppm zddp regulation. The stuff I'm using is SL. The new dino Rotella 15-40 is cutting zinc and ph and using more Boron, as is Mobil and most other's.
 
Is all SL stuff 1000ppm zddp? and what if it says SL/SM on the bottle?
 
Supposedly, some show higher. SL/SM means that that passes the new American Petroleum Institutes certification and all that hoo ha for gasoline engines.

The SL's like Rotella(not the new 3way protection cj-4. The Rotella 5w40 I'm using is SYN is SL/Cl-4. The second being for the diesel, can't remember the numbers but I think thats a set 1300ppm zddp and the more recent cj-4 down to 1150? Don't hold me to those. Not sure if they are making new Synthetic rotella, I stock up at walley. The other diesels that are good are delo and delvac. more than enough in the package.

My old reports got wiped out with server crash. I'll try to see if they are on file. and the website that was the best doesn't show the graph of oils that were tested (http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html)
 
So let me ask.

How did "Are engine flush chemicals good or bad?" transpose in to are synthetics good or bad?

:dunno:

Thanks all
 
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