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Any adverse affects with Waggoner Dana 44 swap

Gascan340

NAXJA Forum User
Location
New Bern NC
I have been doing some research on a 85 front Dana 44 swap into my 1988 XJ. I would like to be able to maintain a very street able off road do in largely to the fact it’s going to make numerous trips to W.I. and Canada. I have a few questions with that in mind.

  • For those who see the benefit of using any type of Waggoner, Chevy, and Ford rotors and bake assemblies with the much lager calipers and lock out hub, will the stock XJ master cylinder and brake booster be up to the task of the much bigger configuration. (Rear axle is an 8.8 if that puts any more demand on the brake system)

  • I have heard of all kinds of discussion on what is stronger standard or reverse cut axles. I know that the reverse cut is better on driveshaft angles but is that the only benefit? I have even read that the Dana 30 is as strong as the standard cut Dana 44. But I have not been able to find any real facts to support all the talk on the internet.

  • I don’t want to start this up but I’m in need of opinions stick with the Dana 30 or go the distance with the Dana 44 ( I have a RE 4.5 and would like to run 32 or 33 tires and as for terrain wheeling in the sand a OBX N.C. W.V. trials and of course W.I. snow)
Thanks for the help
 
If your only going 32"-33"s, just stick with the 30. There is a lot of work and money into a D44 swap, and it may not be worth it unless your running at least 35s.

As far as reverse cut vs. standard, reverse cut gears are stronger in a front axle. Gears are cut with two different angles for the "coast" and "drive" sides. When you run a LP axle in front, you are driving on the coast side and there is less surface contact with the gears.

A LPD44's gears may be marginally stronger than a HPD30, but not much. The big advantage with the 44 is the ability to run things like hi-steer, hydro assist, bigger brakes, and lock out hubs (with upgraded shafts, hubs generally act like a fuse in the drive line, and are very easy to change).
 
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one of the major upsides would be that the d44 housing is substantially stronger than the d30's. although i think that most will agree that a 44 is pretty much overkill for anything less than 35's, unless you're jumping it, or doing some serious rockcrawling. i've got an '89 fsj on 33's(eventually going to 35's) running the stock lp44. i beat it pretty hard, with no issues at all. you should be fine with an hp30 in an xj. but it's your jeep, if you want a d44-i say go for it!
 
Thanks for the help but if later down the road I was going to do the Dana 44 swap how would the stock brakes work with the new much larger brakes form the waggy
 
i'm not sure about how the stock xj m/c would work with the larger calipers. i think the main issue would be the 6x5.5" bolt pattern on the larger rotors.
 
I know that a lot of people mix and match with outer knuckles and other parts. I think that can be overcome but it would be a huge downer the put in under the XJ only to find out that the brake are now useless.

I hear a lot about the converting 6x5.5 to 5x5.5 but nothing about the integrity of the brake after is all said in done.
 
Gascan340 said:
Thanks for the help but if later down the road I was going to do the Dana 44 swap how would the stock brakes work with the new much larger brakes form the waggy


The brakes will be fine. I run the stock booster and master cylinder in my '93, with Ford F150 rotors, Chevy K10 calipers, and it stops really good.
 
That is some good info how long have you been running the setup. Is it a waggy or ford hp dana 44 and how streetable is the setup. If you dont mind what did you find to be the hardest part of the swap.
 
I ran a D44 front(waggy housing with dodge knuckles/brakes) and a Dodge 3/4ton d60 rear with the stock MC. Pedal travel was a bit far but they worked better than the stock ones ever did. I was running 36" IROKS.

Using all Dodge stuf from the knucles out will give you a 5 bolt or 8 bolt pattern and all Dodge knuckles from 1980 thru 1994 are flat top. Its the simpilist way to get a 5 bolt pattern with hi steer.
 
I have a LP D44 from a waggy on mine. The only reason I did it was because I blew up a full carrier detroit in the HP30. Brakes are much better, left it 6on5.5 and just picked up some different beadlocks. I got lucky and got the housing with all the mounts brakets etc already done. Threw some 4340 shafts in with Longfield joints and just wheel it. It did mess with my DS angle at full droop.
 
LP 44 being just as strong as a HP 30 is a bunch of bs. my buddy runs 38's on his CJ with a STOCK LP chevy 44. the only time he has broken a shaft was when he jumped it out of a ditch.

on my Hp44 and f9" both with chromo shafts and super joints in the front.... ON 32s, the brakes are amazing. the stock MS and brake booster does a great job at pushing the 3/4 ton brakes around. pedal travel increased because of the rear disks, but all four tires will lock up at 60 mph. which is pretty sweet.

the only problem i have with it right now is the steering angles getting messed up due to the shitty rustys track bar i was forced into useing b/c of time and money. other than that, i would recommend the d44 swap be put on the top of your list.

I had to post this on pirate, since i cant post anywhere else on here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=601576
 
Thank for the info I would really like to do the swap and I would rather invest my time and money on one front axle vs. two with the D30 to a D44 later.

Hey is there a good site that sells a nice set of rear lug adapters from 4x4.5” two 5x5.5 or even 6x lugs
 
Thank for the input, any advice on wheel lug adapters that will convert the rear to the correct style (5x5.5 or 6x5.5 there might be more? I am running 8.8 )

Also any input on the brackets or picture I’m looking for ideas as I’m sure others are as well.
 
Not so much the width. Just known people that had problems with them coming loose. Losta lock tight and constant checking would be my advice. I was going to get them. But I found a set of beadlocks for the front left the rear 5 on 4.5

I don't have a spare, mostly a trail truck so I carry a tube, plugs and hope for the best.

Edit: and actually the beadlocks I found had a wider offset so I put spacers on the rear just to make the overall stance wider. It's just the 2 pieces that freak me out a little
 
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