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Control arm flex questions

stoneattic

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Honey Brook, PA
Currently running Procomp LCAs with poly bushings and factory UCAs and thinking I need something more flexable after my last couple of trips to Paragon (RIP for now) and Rausch Creek. What's everyones opinion on the different types of "flexible" arms, like the RE superflex/johnny joint type versus the rotating teraflex/jks type versus just rubber bushings or any variation that I'm not thinking of.

How much do the LCAs versus UCAs help flex?

This is a daily driver that I'd like more flex out of so these things will see lots of highway miles beside the rausch creek runs. I want something that doesn't have to be adjusted/lubed every month and doesn't wear out quickly, plus is nice and stable at 75mph.

Thoughts? Opinions? Experience?

Thanks!
 
Im also in the same exact boat. Im running Pro comp LCA's and have been thinking about either JKS Adj. UCA's or RE Fixed UCA's. now it wont flex like Long arms but should be better than stock along with your PC LCA's. A buddy of mine is running Homemade UCA and LCA's and he swears its way better than stock and says it flexes better than the stock ones he had, so....
 
I've found that the procomp lower control arms have a steel sleeve in the center of the bushing that will crush when you torque the bolt and squeeze the mount ears against the arm reducing flex. The fix for me was to remove the weak steel inserts and install some beefier solid (instead of rolled and not welded) sleeves. Now I can gorilla torque the lca bolts without crushing the sleeves. Works good.
 
I believe all four arm should be replaces as a set for best flex. I'm running procrap lca with stock uppers and I can tuck my 31x 11.5's right up inside the fender until it rubs near the coil mount, I have a set of bds adjustables I'm putting in this weekend ,I'll post up on the flex
 
For best flex(less binding) youll need a RE joint or Currie.The twist-style still only work 2 dimensionally.All your mounts will love you for it!
 
What about RockKrawler LCA's and UCA'S
 
Rustys LCA, OEM UCA. everything with rubber bushings. 4.5"


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I had great results with the Teraflex lower arms; I believe the JKS ones are the same style. Those are the only two aftermarket "stockish" lowers I'd recommend.

The Teraflex ones have an enormous rubber bushing on the frame end, no problems there.

I ran stock UCAs and never once bent one or had them be the limiting factor. While not optimum, I highly doubt I would have noticed much difference in any performance if I had upgraded them. YMMV.

Stuff like that is one reason why I will ALWAYS recommend going with a Rusty's 3" or 4.5" kit, for example, over an RE kit. I ran stock arms all around with the 3" rusty's kit and had no complaints ever. Then I added some spacers, scored some used Tera arms, and went to 4.5". Still cheaper than if I had went to an RE kit in the first place, and I was able to use the money I saved to help buy other stuff for the project. I will absolutely say that the rig would not have worked any better had I gone with one of the RE packages, and in fact my experience with driving and wheeling with others' rigs has been that the springs in the Rusty's kit work better overall anyway.
 
Thanks for all the input. Of course everyone has had different experience. :)
I'm leaning towards a full set of RE super-flex control arms but I really don't know how well I flex right now. I run Paragon and Rausch Creek but never got out and looked to see how much flex I actually have! If I'm flexing as good as fxdlrider I'll be happy and stick with my procomps for now.

Any one have a lot of miles on the RE super-flex joints?
 
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