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Torque the last Headbolt!

U

ubipa

NAXJA Forum User
Location
philadelphia
How?! Stupid 4.0 straight six... stupid sheet metal lip on the firewall.

Am I missing something... I need a deep socket to fit the headbolt, but I don't have enough room to fit the deep socket and torque wrench. Is my engine misaligned, because the sheet metal lip on the firewall is impeding?

I can't cut the socket I have down because it's a tapered 12 point and the cut doesn't go deep enough. A regular socket won't fit. Are there mid sockets out there? I need like a socket that is like three inches to fit the wrench and socket on to the headbolt.

Anyone have any tricks or know of a socket that works for sure?


2000 Jeep cherokee sport
 
sawzall, on my 91 a wiring harness runs across that lip, move the harness, cut a notch, then when you put the harness back you cant really tell it was cut.

You might also try popping the engine mount brackets and supporting the motor with a floor jack and 2x6 then lower it down some.
 
use a swivel. get the deep socket on the stud, and then put a swivel on the socket, a 12" extension on the swivel, and a ratchet on the extension. get the swivel as straight as it'll go, and you'll be all set.
 
If a swivel won't fit, try a "wobble". It only adds about an inch in length and has some play in the male end, unlike a standard extension. Whatever you use, keep it as axial as possible to keep your torque reading accurate.
 
he's got no room for the long socket, much less a swivel on top.

disconnect one of the motor mounts and support the engine, drop it down, and torque. lift back up, bolt engine mount back in, call it a day.

it's worked for me in the past, and face it, you have a unibody. cutting anything out of it isn't exactly adviseable if you're not replacing what you've cut.
 
wolfpackjeeper said:
sawzall, on my 91 a wiring harness runs across that lip, move the harness, cut a notch, then when you put the harness back you cant really tell it was cut.----

.
Click to expand...

X2, cut notch.
 
Thanks everyone.. great ideas!

I'll see if I can pick up an accomadable swivel. If not, I'll drop the engine...I didn't even think of that.
 
jeepcomj said:
he's got no room for the long socket, much less a swivel on top.

disconnect one of the motor mounts and support the engine, drop it down, and torque. lift back up, bolt engine mount back in, call it a day.

it's worked for me in the past, and face it, you have a unibody. cutting anything out of it isn't exactly adviseable if you're not replacing what you've cut.
Click to expand...

X2, you will only need a couple of inches to clear the torque wrench/deep well.
 
sjkimmel99 said:
Yea, who thought that one up. I cut the bolt extension off and attach the ground strap to the next extended bolt closer to the front of the vehicle. Then take a bfh and "clearance" the sheetmetal lip. Works fine, no ill effects so far.
Click to expand...

One of Jeeps better designs. Use the BFH on the lip. It worked on mine.
 
the funny thing is, when I put the head on the stroker, I didnt have a problem torquing it, in fact the notch didnt come into play at all for that the wrench was below it. I had to cut the notch to be able to slide the head bolt in at all, it was to long to angle in...
 
wolfpackjeeper said:
I had to cut the notch to be able to slide the head bolt in at all, it was to long to angle in...
Click to expand...

I discovered (the hard way) that it’s a lot easier to put that bolt in before you place the head.
 
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