Steel or Aluminum?

[IntrepidXJ]

Well, I was originally planning on getting some nice aluminum wheels for my XJ later this year, but after this, I am having 2nd thoughts on the matter:

http://www.myxj.net/g2/d/85525-1/IMG_7603.JPG

http://www.myxj.net/g2/d/85529-1/IMG_7608.JPG

It was a pretty hard hit, and I would guess an aluminum wheel might have cracked in the same situation. Plus, there would be no way for me to even attempt a repair on aluminum........

So, what are your thoughts......especially for an adventure-type rig?

[Prepmech]

They make rim repair wrenches for steel wheels to easily straighten one, can't use them on aluminum.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2691,706_Rim-Repair-Wrench.html

Steel wheels are less voulnerable to rock rash, where aluminum ones get some pretty nasty scrapes and gouges.

Steelies are cheap to replace if you do screw one up pretty bad.

You don't have to spend so much time cleaning them.

Steelies are easier to add beadlocks to if you decide you need them later.

You can weld a short piece of small diameter tubing around the valve of a steel wheel to protect it.

There are a lot of cool circle track tools and accessories available for steel wheels that can't be used on aluminum.

If you use a manual tire changer, you don't have to worry so much about scratching a steel wheel.

[DaJudge]

I have aluminum on mine but I keep thinking I should go steel because of just what you experienced.

I have never broken one but I still worry about the 'what-if'.

[OverlandXJ]

A hit like that would probably destroyed an alloy wheel beyond repair...you can always hammer a steel wheel back into shape enough to keep rolling if you should damage two wheels. With alloy you would be stuck..

Good on you for having a sledge big enough to repair that wheel to begin with.

[IntrepidXJ]

Good on you for having a sledge big enough to repair that wheel to begin with.

well, i probably carry more tools with me than i really need to.....but I like to go prepared ;)

[Rev Den]

Alcoas.


Problem solved.


Rev

[IllianaXJ]

Aluminum is lighter, but the extra weight of steel is where you want it - down low.

I have cracked an alum. rim and had the lugnuts back off another alum. rim on the highway, causing an interesting traffic backup. None of that has happened in the 5+ years after I switched to steel.

Plus, they're CHEAP to replace. I think you can still get 767s from Quad or Summit for $39.

[ren]

The pix should make the decision obvious.

[Matt S.]

The pix should make the decision obvious.


Yes IF you buy cheap low quality rims!!!!

Alcoas (Forged)
Weld (forged)
Centerline (forged)


all in the $300 plus range. IF you want the best rims that are light AND durable, get those. 2 of those companies even offer beadlock wheels. Champion and Beadlock Specialties are two companies that will convert to beadlocks if needed.

Dont buy aluminum unless you are willing to get the top quality.

[ryurabbit]

Well I remember captain ron destroying a FORGED alluminum wheel in the desert a year or 2 ago. It was cracked and leaking air. I think steelies are the way to go.

[Roxtar]

Well I remember captain ron destroying a FORGED alluminum wheel in the desert a year or 2 ago. It was cracked and leaking air. I think steelies are the way to go.Do you think a wheel exists that Cappy can't break?!

[XJ_ranger]

Well I remember captain ron destroying a FORGED alluminum wheel in the desert a year or 2 ago. It was cracked and leaking air. I think steelies are the way to go.

that wasnt forged - that was an American Racing aluminum rim that Champion converted... American Racing are cast...

grain structure > random grain size...

[Matt S.]

that wasnt forged - that was an American Racing aluminum rim that Champion converted... American Racing are cast...

grain structure > random grain size...

Da Truf :guitar:



Buy FORGED wheels... or dont buy at all. ( I bought steelies:eyes:)

[XJEEPER]

The fact that you can bend a steel wheel is why I run aluminum. Pounding out a bent lip is nice, but how easy is it to straighten a steel wheel that is bent at the wheel center? I see this all the time, especially on the cheap steel "RockCrawler" rims.

On a trailered rig, I'd be inclined to go with steel, but on a daily driver that sees regular trail time, aluminum.

[selarep]

I bought some steel rims of scrappy one time and hit a railroad track doing 60 and it split one rim in 2. put on the spare and drove home and welded it back up and used it as a trail spare. Go Steel.

[WB9YZU]

I have bent plenty of steel rims, just as shown, which caused an air-down and me reaching for the spare.

I have been running aluminum rims since I got the 98' and the YJ. So far, no problems. Chips, yes; gouges, some. However none have left me stranded and looking for a 5lb maul to "fix" my wheel.

As far as preventing side gouges, bolt a set of those fake bead locks on the rims. They leave just enough metal behind to satisfy the rock gods ;)

Buy good rims that fit a normal acorn nut and touque to spec. You won't have any problems with loose wheels.

Ron

[Roxtar]

Never had any problems with either Trailreadys or Walker Evans alum beadlocks.
Both have been put through some nasty chit.

Don't hear of anyone else complaining about them either.

[Stumpalump]

I use Micky Tompson Outlaw aluminum. Summit and Tire package.com have them for under $100. They are perfectly round and don't flex. The less unsprung weight makes the jeep ride better and the less weight is suposed to be easier on axels. I have a few chips on them but for looks you can't beat aluminium. What I wish I could find are super strong and perfectly round steel beadlock rims. I think the extra weight down low would help off road. The rockcrawling experts run a lot of aluminum wheels but they put steel shot in the tires for weight at the bottom of the tire.

[IntrepidXJ]

I think the extra weight down low would help off road. The rockcrawling experts run a lot of aluminum wheels but they put steel shot in the tires for weight at the bottom of the tire.

Well, this rig isn't a rock crawler. It is an expedition rig that sees daily driving duties. That's why I was leaning towards aluminum.

[1985xjlaredo]

I would never run alum wheels on any vechile that I was going to be running off road!

[Jes]

I would never run steel wheels on any vechile that I was going to be running off road!

[97CountryXJ]

al-yew-min-eum all the way

[Roxtar]

I would never run steel wheels on any vechile that I was going to be running off road!2X
Steel wheels are ghey.

[TunaSoda]

Steel wheels are very cheap to replace/fix and you can torque your lugs harder without worrying about flaring your mounting flange holes. They also don't oxidize/discolor/pit from the winter months as easy.

[SwissArmyJeep]

For a Sunday-Go-to-Meeting, I've spent the day polishing the Wife's Aluminum rims.
I've spent an hour repainting my steel rims with a rattle can.
Rattle can any day BABY!
:peace:

[Mosephus]

The fact that you can bend a steel wheel is why I run aluminum. Pounding out a bent lip is nice, but how easy is it to straighten a steel wheel that is bent at the wheel center? I see this all the time, especially on the cheap steel "RockCrawler" rims.

On a trailered rig, I'd be inclined to go with steel, but on a daily driver that sees regular trail time, aluminum.

Ditto, on the aluminum, this one doesn't look too beat but there are chunks missing and rash everywhere, sure you hit it hard enough it will crack but what wheel won't if hit hard enough. Besides you can spray paint Aluminuim wheels too:spin1:
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p193/M715/Wheel%20Project/IMG_3142.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p193/M715/Wheel%20Project/Image3.jpg

[97CountryXJ]

Ditto, on the aluminum, this one doesn't look too beat but there are chunks missing and rash everywhere, sure you hit it hard enough it will crack but what wheel won't if hit hard enough. Besides you can spray paint Aluminuim wheels too:spin1:
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p193/M715/Wheel%20Project/IMG_3142.jpg
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p193/M715/Wheel%20Project/Image3.jpg
Two words.......SA WEEEEEEET!!!!
Ok, details. How'd you do that???

[Jes]

Steel wheels are very cheap to replace/fix and you can torque your lugs harder without worrying about flaring your mounting flange holes. They also don't oxidize/discolor/pit from the winter months as easy.

So, you're saying by running steel wheels that somehow I can exceed the 85 ft/lb torque spec on the lug nuts?
Sweet.

[Mosephus]

Sand paper and lots of time.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p193/M715/Wheel%20Project/IMG_3141.jpg

[TunaSoda]

So, you're saying by running steel wheels that somehow I can exceed the 85 ft/lb torque spec on the lug nuts?
Sweet.
I'm saying you have less to worry about if you over-tighten the lugs by hand (without a T-Wrench)

It is plate steel :D

And I have seen many places like Town Fair Tire over-tighten lugs hard!

[91Woody]

On my factory Jeep Aluminum rims I would enjoy watchin someone try to overtighten the lugs and f-up my rims. One of my wheels had a lug not that got stuck on from the d-heads that torque the lugs to whatever the capacity of the air tool was. It would not come off after two hours of a garage trying to get it off with e-z outs, etc, etc. They told me they would need to take a torch to the lug nut (it was a P.O.S. jacketed lug) and get it super hot to try to get it off. obviusly, they warned me the rim would likely turn to complete sh1t after this process, but i had a spare and needed it off regardless. After about 10 minutes the lug popped off, and we began to examine the rim. We wiped the black off and nothing had happened to the rim. mind you, this is a lug embedded in 1" aluminum hole. I was surprised and now I am a hell o a lot more confident in my rims than before. i have since moved this rim to my spare as a precaution, but would not hesitate to use it. I believe they were forged from the factory, but not sure.