Shock installation advice & questions

This is for a 96 with 173k, DD............ Don't want to spend a ton of $$$ on this thing, but I definitely need 4 shocks. The rear old ones are sensatracs and the front, not sure but they're silver if that means anything to any brand.

I've been checking advanceautoparts.com since that's what is most convenient to me. I really don't wanna go over $40 a shock, and would like to stay around $20 if it's possible/worth it.

I'm seeing monroe gasmatics for around $20, then up to $40 for KYB or monroe reflex. I know it's gonna be a hassle with the back mounts (one bolt appears to have been replaced already from the last guy), so I wanna go cheap, but not so cheap that I'm having to redo the job later because of junk parts. Also, do all shocks come with the bar pins, or do you need to use the old ones?

I don't seem to have much spring sag except the rear driver side where the spare sits.....it's only at about 16" instead of 17". The thing bounces, dives and rolls like crazy so I'm hoping to fix most of this with replacing the shocks. I'm pretty much a newbie at anything underneath the jeep, so I was wondering too....when replacing the shocks do you have to jack it up or anything, or just unbolt and replace them? Thanks for any help!

You can go with the $20 Monroe's and get decent results for now. Just keep in mind that you get what you pay for. I have the same shocks on my DD right now, and while the ride isn't great, and I don't expect much life out of them, it's certainly better than no shocks at all.

If you get the correct shocks for the application, they will have barpins.


You should have no problem getting the rears off and or from the ground. You'll want to pull the front wheels for that end though.

anodyne33 said:

You can go with the $20 Monroe's and get decent results for now. Just keep in mind that you get what you pay for. I have the same shocks on my DD right now, and while the ride isn't great, and I don't expect much life out of them, it's certainly better than no shocks at all.

If you get the correct shocks for the application, they will have barpins.


You should have no problem getting the rears off and or from the ground. You'll want to pull the front wheels for that end though.

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Thanks for the reply! I knew I'd have to pull the front wheels off, but what I didn't know is if you have to somehow jack one side up to relieve compression or something or...but I guess maybe they wouldn't be compressed unless the springs were really bad.

Anyway, I know you get what you pay for, and that's why I started the post with the 96, 173k thing,.... I basically had to put a floor in it when I got it, so it's not like this is ever going to be a dream machine or anything too great. I don't wanna go dumping a ton of cash into something that's rusting apart

Easiest solution is in your sunday paper, see what sears has on sale w/free installation. For my DD thats what I do, I let them remove the shocks and do the fix if they break a bolt. Had the TJ done last year, it was like $75 for all 4 installed, nice gas shocks.

RichP said:

Easiest solution is in your sunday paper, see what sears has on sale w/free installation. For my DD thats what I do, I let them remove the shocks and do the fix if they break a bolt. Had the TJ done last year, it was like $75 for all 4 installed, nice gas shocks.

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I thought about that, but would feel better doing it myself I think. I don't know, maybe I'll keep it open as an option though.

I just recently did all 4 with Monroe Reflex shocks for about $33 each. I am very happy with the ride. These are silver. Not sure if that maybe what you have in the front now. Also I had allot of body roll when going into corners and new sway bar bushings up front fixed me right up.

deumbower said:

I just recently did all 4 with Monroe Reflex shocks for about $33 each. I am very happy with the ride. These are silver. Not sure if that maybe what you have in the front now. Also I had allot of body roll when going into corners and new sway bar bushings up front fixed me right up.

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Thanks for the reply! WELL, I called sears and they wanted 216.20 to do 4 of the cheapest shocks they sell (think he said 33.xx for monroe gasmatics). Forget that. I guess I just need to decide now on the sensatrac/gasmatics or kyb brand.

BTW, could someone let me know the stuff I'll need for the rear mounts as far as the size & length of the nuts & bolts/washers? I think I'll prob just cut through the top before even trying to take off the old bolts. Thanks!

The past 2 years (and possibly more), Monroe has done a 'buy 3 get one free' deal in Sept - October. Of course I don't know if this will still apply this year however if you can, you may want to wait a month or so. They called it Shocktober Fest or something.

I got the 4 Reflexes and am happy with them.

gba88 said:

BTW, could someone let me know the stuff I'll need for the rear mounts as far as the size & length of the nuts & bolts/washers? I think I'll prob just cut through the top before even trying to take off the old bolts. Thanks!

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Alot of people on here have sprayed the bolts in the rear with PB blaster (a few days and everyday up until the de-install) and have had little to no problems. Personally, i had no problems whatsoever removing the bolts (without any penetrating bolt remover). I didnt lift the vehicle to remove the front or the rear. Although i will say that it would have been easier to do so in both the front and the rear to give you more room to work. In the front i should have also (besides jacking it up) removed the wheels to make it more "roomy" I think the bolt removal problem depends on your location however. Im in Bend, Oregon and we have snow / red lava rock put down during the winter and 90-100 degree summers. If your in a salty area or already have problems with rust i would "assume" that these bolts would be harder to get loose. I have also read here that when you go to remove these you should first try to tighten them a little bit and then remove them.
As far as sizes, i dont remember / didnt pay attention. I hope that helps a bit.

Muad'Dib said:

Alot of people on here have sprayed the bolts in the rear with PB blaster (a few days and everyday up until the de-install) and have had little to no problems. Personally, i had no problems whatsoever removing the bolts (without any penetrating bolt remover). I didnt lift the vehicle to remove the front or the rear. Although i will say that it would have been easier to do so in both the front and the rear to give you more room to work. In the front i should have also (besides jacking it up) removed the wheels to make it more "roomy" I think the bolt removal problem depends on your location however. Im in Bend, Oregon and we have snow / red lava rock put down during the winter and 90-100 degree summers. If your in a salty area or already have problems with rust i would "assume" that these bolts would be harder to get loose. I have also read here that when you go to remove these you should first try to tighten them a little bit and then remove them.
As far as sizes, i dont remember / didnt pay attention. I hope that helps a bit.

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Thanks, yeah it gives me a little inspiration! Unfortunately though, I had to nearly put a floor in this thing when I first got it, so that should give you an idea of the rust I'm up against I'm in western PA right in the salt belt so to speak.

I'd just like to have the hardware on hand in case things go horribly wrong. I figure that there's 4 chances (bolts) that something's gonna get f'ed up. Last big mess I was in was a saturday evening when my belt tensioner bolt snapped (the long 9" one that goes through the idler pulley). Nothing worse than a situation like that and not having the parts to fix it.

Any specifics on bolts/nuts/washers would still be appreciated.

Well, after some research I know what bolts I'm going to use.

I've been hitting the bolts with pb blaster and a hammer for the last few days after work. Don't know how much this will help, but I hope to get to it this weekend.

My last concern is the bar pins. Mine look pretty rough and the guy at the parts store said that neither the gasmatics or sensatracs come with bar pins. He said you have to use the old ones. Can anyone confirm that? He even said that they don't sell any so I guess I'm gonna be screwed if the old ones break. Maybe I'll call a few other stores.

The autopart company I work for has me selling KYB's for the last four years. You will not be sorry with the quality of these bits. It is unlikely you will ever have to buy replacements with 177K on the clock but you should pick up new pins from the dealer.

trucksgottaheXJ said:

The autopart company I work for has me selling KYB's for the last four years. You will not be sorry with the quality of these bits. It is unlikely you will ever have to buy replacements with 177K on the clock but you should pick up new pins from the dealer.

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I didn't even think of the dealer for the pins! Thanks for the post Unfortunately, I can't find any KYB's locally (even though advance lists them on their site). I'm probably going to just end up getting the gasmatics since I can get all 4 for 13.99 each locally.

Never call Sears for prices, either go there and eyeball them or get the circular from sundays paper.

my rancho 7000's came with barpins.

RichP said:

Never call Sears for prices, either go there and eyeball them or get the circular from sundays paper.

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Yeah, sounds like it makes a BIG difference in the price considering what you paid versus what they told me

I think for the time being I'm going to just do the fronts with regular monroe gasmatics. I can get them cheap locally, and a friend said that the fronts are more important to handling than the rears. So I'm going to plan on that, see how it's affected and then go from there.

Thanks to everyone for the posts!