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Axle seal replacement trick - Dana 30

sigmund

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I've seen a bunch of threads all stating how difficult replacing axles seals is on a Dana 30, but I popped mine in and out in less than 15 minutes. All I used was a 4' piece of 3/4" pipe (it fits cleanly through your new seals), a 33mm socket, and a 3lb hammer. Once the shafts have been removed and the carrier pulled, the tough stuff is done. Simply slide the pipe into the housing and punch both seals out, one from each side. Once the old seals are out, make sure the recesses for the seals are clean and start each of the seals into place by placing the 33mm socket over the center of the seal and tapping the seals into the recess. The 33mm socket fits over the center of the seal and into the recess without actually interfering with the sealing flange (it was only pure luck that I had this socket in my box). Once both seals are started, slide the pipe through from the outside and carefully guide it through the outside seal so it extends through the pumpkin to the opposite side seal. I got my son to hold the socket on the seal while I drove it into place with the pipe, it only takes a couple whacks to set it. Then, simply reverse and do the other side. By placing both seals at the beginning, it helps to guide the pipe for seal driving. Hope this makes things easier for anyone that needs to do it.
 
I replaced the hubs about five years ago, but after I installed the axle shafts back, noticed a leak from the driver's side seal.
Can I just remove that shaft and use that 4" pipe to reset the seal back in place? I don't need to open the other side or remove the carrier. And if the case, I can put new seal in (only on that side).
 
Can I just remove that shaft and use that 4" pipe to reset the seal back in place?
No. The seals are inserted and removed form the carrier side. In order to install one you go from the other side's axle tube using the pipe method. The carrier needs to come out as do both axle shafts.
 
I've replaced my seals twice, cant for the life of me get the drivers side to stop leaking.
I did a version of this trick for the install.....I think its the re-installation of the axle shafts that's causing a nick on the seal or something.... installing the seals isn't the hard part, its getting the axle shafts back in perfectly centered in the axle tube, and without hitting the seal in any way.....
 
I've replaced my seals twice, cant for the life of me get the drivers side to stop leaking.
I did a version of this trick for the install.....I think its the re-installation of the axle shafts that's causing a nick on the seal or something.... installing the seals isn't the hard part, its getting the axle shafts back in perfectly centered in the axle tube, and without hitting the seal in any way.....

This is what helps me:

Make sure the axle tube is clean before reinserting. A piece of 1X18" stock works nice as a scraper. Simply insert the stock and while holding one end, and making sure one surface always contacts the tube, scrape the tube around it's circumference and pull the stock out. It is amazing the amount of crap in the tube, even on the street.

When reinserting the axle, be sure to put grease on the splines and seal surface on the end of the axle. If you don't grease the seal surface, it will suffer until lube gets to it. Insertion: just to the best you can. The seals have a funnel like thing on them to straighten the whole thing out if you can get close, just go slow.

Interestingly enough, my 06 LJ has a ring on the long shaft about 1/2 way to help center the axle when inserting it.
 
Similar to what I did here--a piece of PVC tubing small enough to fit through the seal opening, and the 34mm socket that was used to remove the hub nut

PCV_36MM_Tool.sized.jpg


Couple of good thwacks to get started then some lighter taps to get it seated square and flush. Two-man job but it gets done right.
 
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