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Transmission Vote/Help

Options of the tranny fix?

  • Total voters
    56
selarep

selarep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Central CA
I went out of town this weekend to San Fran and while going up and down the hills, my clutch blew on me. It was fine in the begining, then after all the hills, I began to smell a strong burnt clutch smell. I checked my fluid and it was full. The clutch stopped grabbing after a while and I had to start double clutching it untill I couldn't really grab any more. So I parked it and let it sit over night to cool off. The next day I drove it back and it was kinda working but still not grabbing until the end of the petal. I found a shop and the guy said if my master cyl wasnt leaking then my pressure plate was shot and not grabbing, and that I needed to change everything (clutch, plate, master and slave cyl) and he was gonna charge me $700 for all parts and labor. I decided to wait on the work and just drive it back on Sunday. today, and it drove ok but it was still grabbing at the petal end.

So... What do you think it is? I'm not leaking any fluids, but the interior smelled a little of brake fluid (kinda burned) but there's no leak on the clutch fire wall.

Should I replace the master and slave cyl or should I swap in a auto trans?
Any advise would be greatful to the solution.
 
Last edited:
I'm thinking for the cost of a new clutch and clutch MC and SC I could get a nice AW4...
 
Why would the slave and master cylinder need to be replaced? Typically, it's a good idea to replace the pressure plate anyway with the clutch. You may want to resurface the flywheel at the same time.

$700 is a bit steep; you may consider doing it yourself or with a friend after getting quotes for the parts (clutch, master cylinder, flywheel resurfaced (optional)). If too expensive, switch to an auto.
 
Well the thing is that the clutch was working great before the trip, I had NO problems with it. It would grab at half petal, now its at the end of the petal after giving up on me. But there are no leaks... so If my clutch was good before the trip, then it has to be my Master or slave, right? My clutch couldnt burn out in a day... could it?
 
A weak clutch can run a long time without showing any symptoms. Get it hot, and it can go south in 1/2 hour.(go ahead, ask me how I know!)

Start the rig in neutral, step on the clutch, put it in 1st or reverse. Set there holding the clutch in. If it starts to engage, then lugs the engine, the master or slave is leaking down. If there is no change holding the clutch down after 30 sec. or so, the hydraulics are ok, and it's the pressure plate.
 
It doesnt engage, so maybe it is my pressure plate like the guy said.
Any other ways to find out if my plate is bad? I'm full on fluids, so no leaks...
 
I have nothing constuctive to add other than a hope that it all turns out well for you. I am very curious as to what it turns out to be, I am having clutch problems myself.

I think you would be better off sticking with a real transmission though, none of this "Automatic" business. I'm biased though, everytime I drive an auto, I end up sliding it into park when I would have been shifting to first. Seat belts hurt!
 
the hydraulic fluid takes up the "slack" that used to show a worn clutch disk, so it won't show big problems until it's done! resurface the flywheel or replace it preferrably, and replace clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing. Double check the rear main seal when you're in there-- oil will kill a new clutch in no time and who wants to do it twice?

--Shorty
 
I'd say now would be a fine time to stick in that centerforce clutch, pressure plate, and new heavier flywheel.

But that's just my opinion.

I drive an automatic and wish on a daily basis it was a stick. There's no way I'd even consider a manual to automatic swap.
 
SanDiegoXJ said:
I'd say now would be a fine time to stick in that centerforce clutch, pressure plate, and new heavier flywheel.

But that's just my opinion.

I drive an automatic and wish on a daily basis it was a stick. There's no way I'd even consider a manual to automatic swap.
Click to expand...

I agree! I'm into Building it better the first time and being done with longer
 
Hmmm... I'm gonna be shopping around for a new clutch then. Maybe a Sach's heavy duty one... or maybe even a ZOOM, I donno yet.
 
I found a 4L60E Transmission, any one know if that would be a good swap for the 4.0?
 
Why do you want to change trannies? If a stick, you'll still want pressure plate , etc. and if you swap, you'll just add more expense and time.

I could see the 6 speed though, although I have no idea if it'll fit.
 
actually, just thinking about the swap it would run me well into the $1500 range including adapters, drive shafts, etc. not worth it, I found a shade tree mechanic to help me install the new clutch for $150 so I think I'm just gonna do that instead.
 
selarep said:
actually, just thinking about the swap it would run me well into the $1500 range including adapters, drive shafts, etc. not worth it, I found a shade tree mechanic to help me install the new clutch for $150 so I think I'm just gonna do that instead.
Click to expand...

should solve all yer problems and be as reliable as the first one:spin1:

--Shorty

P.S. 4L60E is nothing more than the old 700R4 with a computer doing the thinking for it. Good for about 100,000 miles with maintainance. After that, the POS starts getting lazy and running hotter than it should-- I'd advise against it for 4X4 use.
 
Just do a clutch hob. I just paid $200 for a Luk Gold clutch kit that had the slave included.

Rob
 
Good Lord, I got 26 people saying to do a AW4 and 16 to do a 6 speed TJ. I think I am just gonna get the LUK or the SACH heavy duty. Maybe Zoom...
 
EDIT: found a NV3550 from a XJ that I'm swappin in instead with a LUK HD clutch (or SACH).
 
Is there something wrong with your trans? Why would you swap it.:dunno: Is it going to be a direct swap for you? 23 spline imput? The clutch bolts to the fly wheel, not the trans. Just curious why you would swap it out, unless you have the :puke: PukeJo Trans

Rob $.02
 
Well yeah the NV3550 is a direct swap and I figure why not upgrade since I am gonna do the clutch anyways. My syncro's are are shot so I'm always in 2nd or 4th in order to get into reverse. My ax-15 is still in good shape (except for the syncro's) but it's just feeling a little loose to me.
 
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