High Steer Questions:

99xj4x4 · Jul 29, 2007

My XJ’s steering is beyond worn out. I decided since I have to replace it, I might as well go hi steer now. So Ive seen and heard and seen a lot of different methods (wj knuckle, the weld in wedge, full kits like Currie, etc… Money is a not a problem, but it is a factor. I can do my own fab work, but what I need are ideas. Those of you that run hi steer how is yours done? What companies would you all suggest? My specialty just isn’t steering so I need help on this one guys… what do you think?

CanMan · Jul 29, 2007

www.downeastoffroad.com

Search thier site for the D30 'hi steer' kit.

99xj4x4 · Jul 30, 2007

I have, Ive read it all.

Im more interested in buying a heavy duty steering kit, and then making my own high steer. Right now im thinking the WJ knuckle with someone like T&T Customs Steering.
There is no way Im spending even close to $1000 on a "true hi steer". For that price I could have my own knuckles machined and use riffle stock for steering.

Right now my other problem is my steering is the limmiting factor on my XJs articulation. After thats fixed it will be the trac bar. So I have no problem re-locating the trac bar to the top of the axle.

Gasman · Jul 30, 2007

I'm running a Terra knuckle, JKS WJ conversion tie rod and WJ TRE's flipped over the knuckle. Drag link is custom that I had made locally and flipped over the knuckle as well. I just bought a reamer and inserts to flip. Pitman is ZJ, which is about 3/4" drop and puts it perfectly in line with RE track bar bracket. Track bar is JKS OTB kit and axle end bracket is JKS also. System works great and steers better than stock junk at stock height. Here's a pic I have handy:

99xj4x4 · Jul 30, 2007

I like they way yours is done, especially the geometry. Im deffentally adding that one to the list.
Im also looking at T&T Customs kit. http://www.tntcustoms.com/webv5/knuckleoversteering.asp

cal · Jul 30, 2007

If you wanted to be cheap and still work well (and be strong), look at doing the JCR 1 ton steering, flipped over the knuckle.

Email JCR, they can give you pictures - you can have it done and installed somewhere just over $300.

sjd78 · Jul 31, 2007

BakersfieldXJ said:
My XJ’s steering is beyond worn out. I decided since I have to replace it, I might as well go hi steer now. So Ive seen and heard and seen a lot of different methods (wj knuckle, the weld in wedge, full kits like Currie, etc… Money is a not a problem, but it is a factor. I can do my own fab work, but what I need are ideas. Those of you that run hi steer how is yours done? What companies would you all suggest? My specialty just isn’t steering so I need help on this one guys… what do you think?

I reckon yall culd take sum reebar an weld dat deer togethr an dit wuld b plenty strong! Whut ya tink?

xDUMPTRUCKx · Jul 31, 2007

currie steering sucks.....

like cal said jcr 1 ton is pretty sweet and a decent deal. buy that, a reamer, and an over the axle bracket and go to town.

sjd78 · Jul 31, 2007

xDUMPTRUCKx said:
currie steering sucks.....

like cal said jcr 1 ton is pretty sweet and a decent deal. buy that, a reamer, and an over the axle bracket and go to town.

Care to elaborate on why currie steering sucks? Just curious because I know people who are very happy with it.

cal · Jul 31, 2007

sjd78 said:
Care to elaborate on why currie steering sucks? Just curious because I know people who are very happy with it.

Some people are happy with it. Most people who wheel hard trails bend currie tie rods like they were made of pasta. I've seen 10 rigs start up a trail - 3 with currie steering - and all 3 bend it, where rigs on stock steering came through fine. Granted, I will admit the driver has to be a factor there, but the averages work against currie. Its a lot of money to spend on a nominal at best upgrade that comes with no warantee, and no "off the shelf" parts available in a pinch (tie rod ends at napa, etc).

xDUMPTRUCKx · Jul 31, 2007

too expensive....still bends waay too easy..still crappy stock style inverted t.....not high enough to stay out of the way of rocks...trs are too expensive and you cant find em anywhere whereas jcr uses common parts....need i go on cause i can.

i mean it better than stock i guess.

i could see it as being okay for jeepspeed dudes or something...thats about it.

oh ya alumiflex crap blows as well. i had the tera hysteer setup with the giant octoganal aluminum toe rod and drag link and it bent to crap relitively quick.

sjd78 said:
Care to elaborate on why currie steering sucks? Just curious because I know people who are very happy with it.

XJEEPER · Jul 31, 2007

You could go on, but it sounds like a rant........

Bought my current Currie steering for just over $300. (stock is inverted Y, not T) Angles are much better than stock on a 6" lift.

Spent about $200 in TRE parts and tube on my last steering setup, plus my labor........if you're running 35's or smaller with 6-7" of lift, the Currie setup seems to be a pretty good bolt-on option. You can drill the drivers knuckle and raise the tierod over the knuckle for better clearance with a Goferit kit.

If you wheel big rocks at least 1 weekend a month, it's prolly not your best option, get some DOM and quality heims and build a true high steer that is both strong and out of harms way.

outlander · Jul 31, 2007

got any pics/specs of the system you built for $200??

barillms · Jul 31, 2007

You can make an Over the Knuckle kit yourself for under $100 if you have some smarts, a drill, cell phone, debit card and a welder.

Goatman · Jul 31, 2007

xDUMPTRUCKx said:
currie steering sucks.....

like cal said jcr 1 ton is pretty sweet and a decent deal. buy that, a reamer, and an over the axle bracket and go to town.

Currie steering doesn't suck for someone who isn't interested in fabbing something up for themselves. For those leaving it in the stock location the Currie steering is the best they can buy, and many run it happily. Currie adds bends to the ends so it will handle more angle, which helps, and for a bolt on setup it's pretty beefy. For those wanting to get the steering higher to avoid bending it, then the steering needs to be moved up to the top of the knuckle. Nothing is strong enough to avoid bending if it's low enough to get hit by rocks on a regular basis.

Goatman · Jul 31, 2007

BakersfieldXJ said:
My XJ’s steering is beyond worn out. I decided since I have to replace it, I might as well go hi steer now. So Ive seen and heard and seen a lot of different methods (wj knuckle, the weld in wedge, full kits like Currie, etc… Money is a not a problem, but it is a factor. I can do my own fab work, but what I need are ideas. Those of you that run hi steer how is yours done? What companies would you all suggest? My specialty just isn’t steering so I need help on this one guys… what do you think?

If you don't want to spend the money on Tera knuckles, or the money or work to swap to WJ knuckles, then you can do what I did when I had a D30. I used spacers to mount the tie rod and drag link an inch above the knuckle using heim joints. You can use 1/4" wall DOM for the links. If you want to stop by the house, I can show you how to do it, and I have both right and left hand taps for the links, and the 20mm tap for the stock TRE at the pitman arm. You can leave it as an inverted Y, which is what I did on the D30, or change it to an inverted T which is what I have now on the D44. You can use a QA1 double adjuster to be able to set the toe.

99xj4x4 · Jul 31, 2007

Well I bought the T&T Custons Knuckle over steering kit. I really like there tie rod and drag links (thickest I could find), and 1 ton ends. I figuered if I ever want to replace the stock 30 knuckles to a different style I still can w/ this system.
Im also moving my trac bar on top of the axle, so the geometry will all be correct.
Goat: I like the idea of the spacers, what exactly did you use as the spacer?

Porch Puppy · Aug 1, 2007

You could mod the Tera knuckle...........

XJEEPER · Aug 1, 2007

outlander said:
got any pics/specs of the system you built for $200??

I reverse tapered the stock knuckles and used DOM tube and ES150 TRE's. I kept the inverted Y setup (chopped the factory drag link for parts) because my attempt at a T resulted in severe DW, which I never had before I pulled off the stock steering. Tweak and adjust as I may, I couldn't get rid of the DW, so back to the Y I went and the DW was gone..........:dunno:

I raised the trackbar, fabbed a trackbar and upper mount brace, relocated the steering stab. and fabbed some cheap endlinks for the swaybar. Ran this setup for 3 years without needing to replace anything, wheeling it regularly and driven daily on the road with 32's-33's.

outlander · Aug 1, 2007

cool,thanks.

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