I need to put a fuel pump in my 1998 XJ. Its the one that is on top of the tank not on the back side. I was looking at the repair instructions on the auto zone website and it said you needed a special tool to remove the pump from the tank... but im not sure how accurate the information is. For those of you who have changed a fuel pump like the one in my 98, is there a special tool? If not how does it come out? if so where did you get the tool? Thank you in advance.
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Fuel pump tool??
- Thread starter XJ9888
- Start date
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
There is usually a locking ring for the "stinger" assembly - you turn it a bit to unlock it, and then you can pull the pump mount and level sender out as a unit.
I've never known them to take a "special tool" of any particular sort - beyond a hammer and/or a drift.
HOWEVER, use brass, lead, wood, or rawhide! A steel hammer can spark, and you really don't want sparks anywhere near your fuel tank... (if you use a drift, use a brass rod about 3/8" or larger. Same reason.)
I've never known them to take a "special tool" of any particular sort - beyond a hammer and/or a drift.
HOWEVER, use brass, lead, wood, or rawhide! A steel hammer can spark, and you really don't want sparks anywhere near your fuel tank... (if you use a drift, use a brass rod about 3/8" or larger. Same reason.)
Yeah it looks like it locks into place but i wasnt sure how to unlock it. The tool that they are talking about in the diagaram looks like a piece of metal that attaches to the top of the module that you can hook a ratchet into to unlock it. A brass drift should do the trick.
5-90
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XJ9888 said:
There may be a lockring tool or three out there, but I've never bothered. Brass rod, brass hammer - and about ten seconds.
Locking it back into place is a bit more difficult, but not impossible.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
Aluminum works as well as brass.
When you put it back together, you must have all three ears of the lockring engaged, and it can be tricky. If you look at the lockring, you'll see there's a little bit of bevel ground into the eges of those ears, so they'll get under the corresponding tabs on the tank. It helps if you file them a little bit sharper.
When you put it back together, you must have all three ears of the lockring engaged, and it can be tricky. If you look at the lockring, you'll see there's a little bit of bevel ground into the eges of those ears, so they'll get under the corresponding tabs on the tank. It helps if you file them a little bit sharper.
5-90
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Matthew Currie said:
True - but I find aluminum tends to mushroom more than brass (and I've already got a fair bit of brass rod lying about anyhow.) I tried aluminum drifts for a while, but I had to "clean up" the ends rather more than I thought necessary...
But Hell - pretty much anything apart from steel will work (I once used a hardwood dowel in a pinch. Actually two - they both split longwise rather quickly...)
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
5-90 But Hell - pretty much anything apart from steel will work (I once used a hardwood dowel in a pinch. Actually two - they both split longwise rather quickly...)[/quote said:
5-90
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Shorty said:
"And what is your current marital status?"
"I'm divorced."
"And what did your husband do before the divorce?"
"A lot of things I didn't know about.":twak:
chopperdog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- MO.
I used a giant pair of channel locks, worked perfect
