distributor

How can u tell when the distributor needs replacement?
Anyway of telling without pulling it out?

SLAYER said:

How can u tell when the distributor needs replacement?
Anyway of telling without pulling it out?

Click to expand...

Remove distributor cap.

Gently grip rotor and check for "side-play" in the shaft. You should not be able to wiggle the rotor and shaft much (if you're so inclined and equipped, I think sideplay of less than .003" is acceptable.)

Still gripping the rotor, gently twist in either direction. You shouldn't get much there, either. This checks lash in the drive gear.

The drive gear can be replaced on its own, if need be. The distributor shaft rides in bushings - I've not found replacements yet, so it's probably easier to replace the distributor in toto with a reman.

What sort of trouble are you having?

Its been taking forever to start, feels like stumbling on ignition.
Then after pulling out of the drive about 50 or so it loses power then jumps back with power to normal operation.
Other things it has been doing.
Olipressure gage doesnt work sometimes and eradically moves up and down.
When accelorating it drops when idling it climbs back up. Maybe oil p send unit.
I bought a new battery and did a tune up on it, cleaned the safety neutral switch.
Cleaned air filter.
Checked and cleaned the TB and inspected attached valve and censors.
Tranny flush and filter.
Motor mounts are good.
Replaced 02 censors.
Cleaned all main grounds.
Still acts weird.

Idls is still not as smooth as it used to be, and i feel loss of power.
Could be:

harmonic balancer
fuel pump
injector (s)
transmission
battery terminals or whole cable replacement
engine taking a shite
lemon
I dont know anymore
:sure:

SLAYER said:

Its been taking forever to start, feels like stumbling on ignition.
Then after pulling out of the drive about 50 or so it loses power then jumps back with power to normal operation.
Other things it has been doing.
Olipressure gage doesnt work sometimes and eradically moves up and down.
When accelorating it drops when idling it climbs back up. Maybe oil p send unit.
I bought a new battery and did a tune up on it, cleaned the safety neutral switch.
Cleaned air filter.
Checked and cleaned the TB and inspected attached valve and censors.
Tranny flush and filter.
Motor mounts are good.
Replaced 02 censors.
Cleaned all main grounds.
Still acts weird.

Idls is still not as smooth as it used to be, and i feel loss of power.
Could be:

harmonic balancer
fuel pump
injector (s)
transmission
battery terminals or whole cable replacement
engine taking a shite
lemon
I dont know anymore
:sure:

Click to expand...

First - what year, again?

Second - the oil pressure gage issues are probably separate from the engine issues. They should still be seen to, but not first. Back-check with a mechanical gage (if you have one) and go from those results.

Third - dumb question - but visually check the wiring from the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I've had similar issues, and it turned out to be that the harness for the CPS managed to come loose, and hit the h#6 exhaust tube. Melted through the insulation, then it would intermittently "short out" the sensor when both wires would hit the tube. The problem usually managed to correct itself - but it acted a lot like what you're describing.

It is possible to just splice in a bit of some two-lead cable (like SJOOW 18/2) to get the thing working again - and replace the sensor properly later. It may not be the sensor at fault - just that the wiring has acquired a fault.

Check that out, and report back.

Where is the CPS located?
prob in an impossible place. lol P

Lift your hood.

Stand on the driver's side of the vehicle.

Look down between the firewall and the rear of the engine. You should see (only just...) a sensor retained with two screws, right about where 11:00 would be if you were to look forward from the rear of the vehicle at the engine. (Sorry, I don't have any pix at the moment.)

You can also see the #6 exhaust tube from that position - and the (usually black) wiring coming from the CPS will be easy to spot. You can also usually tell straight away if the insulation and/or jacket has been melted by looking. A small black stain will also be present on the rear side of the #6 exhaust tube as well, if it's been melting insulation.