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NEED HELP BADDDD

T

tgile512

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Charlotte, NC
ok i am installing the rustys t-case drop and i ran into a problem. i took out the stud but on the other screw i unscrewed the head of the bolt but the actual bolt is still in. so do i just yank it out with some vice grips?
 
IIRC, the studs are toward the front of the vehicle. You're saying you snapped the bolt head off? If so...what makes you think you can pull it out with a VG? The threads are still holding. If the bolt head really broke...you're going to have to drill it out probably. Use liberal amounts of penetrant. I would also use some heat from a torch (careful though). Then...if you can actually grab some of the threads (which might be what you were saying) then perhaps try getting a VG on it and work it back and forth (screwing in and out). Is there enough threads showing that youcould get a nut welded on and use that as a new head?
 
tgile512 said:
yea its the one closest to the front of the car, i got the nut off easily but the bolt is still in, should i just use vice grips and turn it?
Click to expand...
Try whatever you can. Vice grips may work. I had two break on mine when making a new x-member with a built in drop. Some drilling, threading, a few coat hangers, some electric tape, new bolts and a little fishing later I had two new bolts back in and I was ready to go. Hopefully yours won't come to that because it was really, really frustrating.
 
No no no....I remember now. That is the stud. Now you need to get that out. You need two nuts that fit on it. Thread one nut on and then the other and tighten the nuts down against each other. Then you're gonna use the nut closest to the frame rail for your wrench. Use heat on that stud b/c it can be a b!tch. Go slowly. Unscrew a turn and then screw it in half a turn. Keep walking it out like that and you'll decrease the likelihood of it breaking. I heated it up a few times during the process. Those suck but don't use a vicr grips or you'll fawk up the threads and really be in a jam.
 
uh oh i think i am in trouble now, i just used vice grips and went at it, the threads are in bad shape but i can get a head back on, so what should i just find another head put that on underneith it and then tightned the first one like hell? will that bring the stud down
 
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If you've already toasted the stud with the vice grips, then just have at it with the vice grips until you get it out. Use some PB Blaster or some other lubricant in there, let it soak and then work it out with the vice grips like riv said. Once you get it out, take the stud to your local store and buy a new one to match (or use whatever the Rusty's kit gives you). As long as you don't damage the nutsert threads (threads inside the frame rail) you will be good to go...
 
well the threads aren't completely gone i just got the stock nut back on and tightened it down so i could figure out what i am gonna do, but what would happen if i just keep tightening? would it bring the stud down?
 
Take a nut and thread it on. Take another nut and thread it on until it contacts the first. Then you take 2 wrenches and put one on each nut. You wanna back the first nut off and tighten it against the second one you put on. Then you'll do your unscrewing from the nut you first put on. Dig? You will have to REALLY put some effort into locking those 2 nuts together. If you don't get them tight enough then when you go to unscrew the one closer to the frame, they will both want to unscrew. Who cares about the threads at this point. You're gonna pitch that stud anyway and the nuts.

Use the "closed" end of the wrench when you tighten those nuts together so they don't round off. Use the closed end to do the unscrewing too.
 
that took way longer than it should have. i did the whole two nut thing and eventually got the stud out and drivers side went in fine. then i tried passenger. i did the two nut deal and got the stud out but the problem came when i tried to get the new bolts and spacer in. the cross member went way out of line and was nearly impossible to get back in line. we finally got one bolt in but just couldn't get the other. so i decided i will just leave one side with the bolt threw the spacer and just left the other side. how do you think this will hold up? one side is bolted down and so is the other just the bolt is not going through the spacer.
 
Done several of these. You need to leave the first side you do loose so you can align the other side. Get all the bolts started before you tighten anyone of them down. Its a PITA.
If you are saying you only have one bolt through the spacer per side, that's not adequate. Loosen them up and try again. My $.02
 
I agree with Daffy...it is a PITA. The guys at Rustys told me it was a 20 minute install. It took me much longer than that. I had to have one side (both bolts) just barely started and then I was able to get the others going but I had to pull on the skid to get things to line up. It sucked. You need to fix it and get it right though instead of leaving one side not done.
 
yea i am going to fix it but how do you think it is possible that i can have one side of the spacer completely lined up and the other side is way out? i am wondering if rustys drilled the hole in the wrong spot? do you think that is possible or should i just try to line it up again
 
As long as the holes in the rectangular block he sent line up with the holes in the skid then he didn't drill anything wrong. I know exactly what's happening and it happened to me. Get the 2 bolts on one side just barely going and then get crafty and try and get a way to pull the skid forward so the holes line up. I think when I did it, the skid wanted to move to the rear of the Jeep and so I was trying to pull it forward. I ended up lowering the jack to make it easier to manipulate the skid. Get a buddy to help so you have an extra set of hands. It can be done.
 
i have tried everything i can think of and nothing. the weird part is is that i can get the bolts in when i don;t have the spacer between the crossmember and the chassis, but when i put that thing in, everything goes out of whack. but for tonight i am done i will try again tomorrow
 
i finally sucked it up and drove it too an offroading shop and they finished it up in about 20 minutes. it turns out i messed up the threads in the chassis so they had to re thread it and the holes in the spacer were half an inch off
 
How were the holes in the spacer off? You're saying that center to center on the holes in the spacer were not the same as ctr to ctr on the skid and/or the frame?
 
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