Hack & Tap Front DS applications HELP

So I am trying to accumulate as much knowledge about what front DS's work with RE hack and taps.

I really don't do anything at my internship so if people can just say what year Cherokee they have, what transmission, transfer case, rear axle, what size lift they have, and what kind of shaft they used (XJ or ZJ) I will put it all in a spreadsheet or an organized post to clear things up for other folks. Any other notes and lengths of shafts will be helpful too.

I have not done a Hack & Tap myself yet but I will probably have to soon, and when looking for this knowledge it seems that there is a lot of indecision of what works with what.

I will post this on JeepForums as well so if you post here don't post there too please. Just trying to get the most conclusive evidence.

Also, if this post already exists please show me.

Alex

The RE H+T uses a flange for the rear, which will not bolt up to the front driveshaft.


That's the flange on the left, and a hack-n-tap RE driveshaft on the right.


The output yoke on the PORC SYE is on the right, and will bolt up to the front driveshaft.

Read more about both at http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/sye.html

Jim www.yuccaman.com

Yea I know there is the spicer part you can put on the front driveshaft to make it work in the rear. what I am asking is what ds's work for this

96 XJ, 4.0, AW4, 231, 8.25, 3* shims, 3.5" lift using ProComp springs, RE H&T, Spicer flange, front DS from automatic XJ, perfect fit.

ok so from what i've seen the only people that have used the front DS for the rear, all have the chrysler 8.25. what kind of funky yoke would someone have to find for the np242 and d35? or would i need to have it lengthened?

tatjunkie said:

ok so from what i've seen the only people that have used the front DS for the rear, all have the chrysler 8.25. what kind of funky yoke would someone have to find for the np242 and d35? or would i need to have it lengthened?

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It's purely a length issue...the NP231, NP242, C8.25, D33, and D35 applications all use the same u-joints.

Jim
'96 XJ, 4.0L, AW-4, NP231 PORC SYE, two front driveshafts.

what about using a CV style rear shaft from something else that used a D30 rear axle, like a Bronco II or something like that? Bah, I'm probably way off base. Those shafts aren't worth anything anyway

tatjunkie said:

what about using a CV style rear shaft from something else that used a D30 rear axle, like a Bronco II or something like that? Bah, I'm probably way off base. Those shafts aren't worth anything anyway

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Its not the axle that matters so much, its the length of the DS. Im sure there are other doner vehicles out there if you have time to crawl under them and measure their CV DSs.

So where should you measure from? With the added yolks and flanges, and shortened shafts, it will not be the same lenght as the original. Also at the length you want it how much should the shaft be able to go in and out?

akennedy99 said:

So where should you measure from? With the added yolks and flanges, and shortened shafts, it will not be the same lenght as the original. Also at the length you want it how much should the shaft be able to go in and out?

Click to expand...

Its hard to say where to measure from because some shafts may require that you change flanges or wont need a flange.
How much slip a DS has depends on your lift and how much up and down axle movement you require. Generally its not as much as most people think. Ive got a basic 3-4" lift and my DS never slips more than an inch or so. I had a CV shaft on my YJ with 4.5" of lift and the DS slipped over two inches easily.

ok i think i'm still lost...

from the sounds of things, it'd be best to find a CV shaft that could bolt directly to the h'n't and the diff, but install it first so you can figure out how long of a ds you need. right? wrong?