D60's front and rear.....

I found a set of 60's and jumped on them. They are out of a 79 f350 and are kingpin. If anyone is running this axle could you chime in as to what you did to it and what tire size you are running? Plan is to 4 link the rear and long arm the front of the xj eventually and put these in. Would like to run a 39 krawler or a 39.5 or 42 IROC in the future.

Fast trackin' the build there Glenn...........

91 Jeep Project said:

Fast trackin' the build there Glenn...........

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Well when you find a set of 79 60's for the price of a front and you got the cash stashed why not?

The rear one you will probably want to upgrade. The stock shafts are gonna be 30-spline and are only marginally stronger than the D44 ones of the same size, due to being full-float and a different neckdown. That axle's mostly meant for a lot of weight on it, not necessarily a lot of torque. If you're going to lock it anyway then changing it to 35-spline isn't a big deal as long as it has the larger spindle bore. You're almost better off selling it and getting a D70u or 14-bolt to put back there.

For the front one, your weak spots are going to be the small-neckdown inner shafts and the 30-spline outers (it's a toss-up which one of these will go first), and being a Ford axle you'll have the lame factory knuckles. Not only are they the weakest OEM D60 knuckle design, but the stock tie-rod mounts under the knuckle (instead of over it like Dodge/GM), and it puts the tie-rod in closer to the diff than the other two. The factory tie rod has a bend in it to clear the diff and any of the standard DOM tierod upgrades will also require a bend or a re-adjustment of the steering stops. Of course going to full hi-steer helps a lot here. Chevy knuckles will be a direct swap if you want to go that route.

On my Dodge 60 front I've blown up a small-neckdown inner shaft and a 30-spline stub. I've since upgraded the inners to alloy shafts and the outers to 35-spline alloys...no problems since, and still running stock Spicer joints and a 1310 at the yoke. Tried pretty hard to break it last time out and didn't succeed. I'm running external drive flanges which are also pretty bombproof. Warn makes 35-spline lockouts for the Ford hubs, which will become the next weak link if you upgrade the shafts.

My experience is with 39.5s and a crawl ratio around 182:1; you're not gonna be quite that deep but your doubler can still get ya in some trouble if things are bound up.

Is the rear 35spline? if not you should upgrade it or get a different one that is.

What condition is the front?
1. Id do a kingpin rebuild kit form the start or youll have deth wobble.
2. Buy another sheet metal kingpin cap to replace the steering arm on one side.
3. you can upgrade your 1/2in wheel studs to 9/16in studs ask for a 1980 F350 and they will be 9/16. If you need to buy rotors just buy the 1980 ones and modify the hub to accept the larger studs.
4. I dont recommend High steer on stock ford knuckles they are weaker then the chevy or dodge d60 knuckles. when I go deadenbear knuckles id go high steer
5. The front is a 1330 Ujoint.
6. The inners are neck down but 35 pline, the outers are 30 spline. I broke a long side inner first (before that i didnt have the t-case gearing or power to snap one it would just stallout) When you upgrade your stub shafts get alloys, if you get alloy USA shafts the inners will need to be grinded down to fit in the inner C and the outers will be too long (120 thousands). Yukon only makes chevy 35spline outers so those would be like 1intoo long.
7. the 806X spicer joint is the one to run, it should not be the weak link if you run lockouts. with flanges and alloy shafts you might want the CTMs but some guys run them and some dont.

If you get 17in rims, Id consider H2 wheels with ballistic beadlocks (have them weld it)
The 40in Maxis creapy crawlers have a better rep for side wall strenght then the BFG krawlers. Im running 16.5in rims so I wont be getting stickies soon.
The 42in Irock is a good tire. All the hardcore guys are now running the CCs.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=588576

ashmanjeepxj said:

2. Buy another sheet metal kingpin cap to replace the steering arm on one side.
3. you can upgrade your 1/2in wheel studs to 9/16in studs ask for a 1980 F350 and they will be 9/16. If you need to buy rotors just buy the 1980 ones and modify the hub to accept the larger studs.

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Re #2: On mine, I was lazy and didn't feel like tracking down a sheet metal one. I just cut the arm off the cap, spent a few minutes with a grinder, and bolted it back on.

Re #3: I used Dorman part #610-283 for my front axle, which is the larger stud size. I did this to match the 14-bolt rear I have. I didn't have to modify the hubs or rotors at all, but like I said, mine's a Dodge axle so YMMV.

vetteboy said:

The factory tie rod has a bend in it to clear the diff and any of the standard DOM tierod upgrades will also require a bend or a re-adjustment of the steering stops.

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I didnt have to add bends to my tierod, ive added 1/4in plate to the diff cover.

Ive run the tierod on the bottom, then re drilled it from the top, neighter was an issue with the tierod hittign the cover. It touches but no big deal worth bending the tierod for.

ashmanjeepxj said:

Is the rear 35spline? if not you should upgrade it or get a different one that is.

What condition is the front?
1. Id do a kingpin rebuild kit form the start or youll have deth wobble.
2. Buy another sheet metal kingpin cap to replace the steering arm on one side.
3. you can upgrade your 1/2in wheel studs to 9/16in studs ask for a 1980 F350 and they will be 9/16. If you need to buy rotors just buy the 1980 ones and modify the hub to accept the larger studs.
4. I dont recommend High steer on stock ford knuckles they are weaker then the chevy or dodge d60 knuckles. when I go deadenbear knuckles id go high steer
5. The front is a 1330 Ujoint.
6. The inners are neck down but 35 pline, the outers are 30 spline. I broke a long side inner first (before that i didnt have the t-case gearing or power to snap one it would just stallout) When you upgrade your stub shafts get alloys, if you get alloy USA shafts the inners will need to be grinded down to fit in the inner C and the outers will be too long (120 thousands). Yukon only makes chevy 35spline outers so those would be like 1intoo long.
7. the 806X spicer joint is the one to run, it should not be the weak link if you run lockouts. with flanges and alloy shafts you might want the CTMs but some guys run them and some dont.

If you get 17in rims, Id consider H2 wheels with ballistic beadlocks (have them weld it)
The 40in Maxis creapy crawlers have a better rep for side wall strenght then the BFG krawlers. Im running 16.5in rims so I wont be getting stickies soon.
The 42in Irock is a good tire. All the hardcore guys are now running the CCs.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=588576

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"Bring out your dead!" Ok, put this on the back burnner bc of $$, but the destruction of the 9" at URE in November brought it back up. Will either sell my current stuff to fund it or slowly get the parts needed.

Thinking about H1 rims. THey seem to be had for $50 each. Down size is the 16.5 size. Will they fit or need to be recentered?

Thinking for the time being 38's or somthing that can be found for cheap.

Looking at this for steering with hydro assist.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/D60-high-steer-kit-for-kingpin-axles_p_19-1246.html $240.00

Is it better to use the chevy TRE and that style steering or these? Will this address the kingpin cap issue?

Knuckles, can I just get some Dodge or Chevy ones and swap them in or does this bring up issues with brakes.

I was thinking lock-right or some type of lunchbox locker front and rear for the time being. Is it possiable to run a 35 psline rear one to upgrade the rear? Disc brake kit for the rear 60 is $300 on ebay atm. What am I missing?

You arn't gonna be able to run those high steer arms and H1s.
While mine arn't 100% installed yet (really only 55%) I've had to cut the stock steering mount off of the knuckle to clear my H1s. I don't mind as I'll be running high steer and want to keep the width down so I'm sticking with the stock backspacing.

For the rear, I'm gonnna end up with 1.25-1.5" spacers I think. I really don't want to, but it is the only way to bring the H1s out enough to not only match the width of my front 60, but to clear things back there.

As for tires, I've got a set of 39x14.50x16.5 PitBulls, they look mean under the XJ!

Knuckles, why swap them out? If you have a problem with the Ford ones, swap them later down the road for Reid ones or Chevy. It seems like a unnessasary cost to me.

I'll be running a lock-right in the front and a spool in the rear. Did you ever figure out if they were 30 or 35-spline? Look into my writeup on here for a cheap and effective way to bore 'em out if you need to. Edit: Here it is.

As for the disc swap, I've heard mixed things about the eBay guy. Try GubNi on Pirate (I think he is on here too). I got mine from him for $290shipped and its a good kit. He has a sale till the end of the year going right now.

Did I miss anything?

RCman said:

You arn't gonna be able to run those high steer arms and H1s.
While mine arn't 100% installed yet (really only 55%) I've had to cut the stock steering mount off of the knuckle to clear my H1s. I don't mind as I'll be running high steer and want to keep the width down so I'm sticking with the stock backspacing.

Did I miss anything?

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Ok I'd like more info on this since you are running H1's? What high steer arms or set up will you be runing? What did the tires set you back? I have not realy looked into anything but SS atm. Thank you for the help.

Ghost said:

Ok I'd like more info on this since you are running H1's? What high steer arms or set up will you be runing? What did the tires set you back? I have not realy looked into anything but SS atm. Thank you for the help.

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I got a steller deal on the tires from Kevin @ Missouri 4Wheelers Supply. At the time they were running a special as well as a PitBull discount, so I got a great deal.

I havn't picked up a set of high steer arms yet for three reasons:
1) Cashflow
2) I havn't determined the length at which they need to be in order to clear everything and work with a hydro setup. Plus I'm looking for a pair that will lead to a good ackerman angle. I don't just want to buy parts and make them work. I like to do my homework first . If I was to go out a by a pair, I'm looking at the Bonz (aka Rockstomper) ones. They are cheap ($90-100), but don't give a good ackerman angle.
3) Continuation of #2, if I was considering to just buy the Bonz ones I would probably just throw some of my 1"x5" stock in my truck and head to the shop to mill my own. The only issue with that is I'll have to look into the grade of steel I've got, don't want to be using something soft like 1020HR. I'd atleast want something along like lines of 1050CD.

For the panhard, I'm going be running 2" Summit Machine flex joints on both ends. 1.5"x0.250wall tubing inbetween.
As for the tierod and drag link I'll probably end up with something similar to Ballistic's 7/8" steering kit. Except I might risk it and try these new Midwest Control chromolly rod ends everyones been talking about (or from Summit Machine if Mike ever sends me my flex joints). And I'll have what is left of the 22-24' length of 1.5"x0.250wall from the panhard.

My HP dana 60 kingpin and metric 14 bolt combo are still sitting on jack stands pending cash.
My plan is 38" LTBs, on H1s w/ copper head fab rings, 3" strech in the rear, keep the 2" strech Im already at in the front. If I have enough money it will get coilovers otherwise itll have to say coils front and leafs rear for a while, was to try to stay as close to 8" lift as possible (where Im at now with 35s), arb front, detroit rear, 5.13 gears.
I would agree to sell the rear axle unless its a Dana 60 HD (look on the diff webbing and ull see the marks) which means it has the bigger bore size and you can easly swap in 35 splines. Otherwise I just go get a 14 bolt from the junkyards.

unless u got a big block i wouldn't worry. is a trailer queen? cuz then just do ballistic air shocks at all 4 corners and a 4 link

i have a d60 in my diesel and its beefy with a 4.0 u would snap it with 39s. u might but highly unlikely. i would get 5.13 if u don't drive on the road

I am driving on the highway with 5.38s and 37s. Perfect as far as I am concerned. A staight tie rod will work. And staying at an 8" lift should be pretty easy. I am at 5" without much work.