ZJ front driveshaft for SYE XJ

I read somewhere that you can use a front ZJ driveshaft as a cheap rear SYE driveshaft solution. My two questions are:
1. Can this be used with a 242 tcase with this SYE plate?
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Products.aspx?pn=1806&Vid=BA827C1030857
2. What all is needed for this to work on my 242? (What driveshaft from what ZJ exactly, etc.)
Thanks. I just want to do this the right way without spending a ton of money.

Ok here it goes.............. all the front DLs that you use you will need to have a spicer pt#[SIZE=-1] 211229X put on to the end of the CV to mate 1310 cv to the flange.



Normal SYE styles are yokes (like the yoke on the differental), h&t for 242 are flange style (like the old 77 chev half ton front driveline). The ZJ V8 (auto) driveline is been recorded at 1in or so longer than the stock auto 4.0 one. I have not found one (dont use the goofy one you find on the quadra-crap ones, they wont work). They are supposed to look just like the stock one just a little bit longer. I have heard that with the added legnth because of the spicer flange plate a stock driveline would be long enough. I was going to go this route (with some other changes) but blew the 242 up before i did it. Swapped to a 231 that already had a super short sye and had to have the front DL legnthened 3 inches to use in the rear. Im at 4.5in of lift, but the flange and flange plate would have made it longer, i was only 1in too short on full extension. Best bet is to just do the sye, and have an extra DL you already bought from junk yard or such (make sure the CV joint is in good shape and if you find a newer style of the CV it will have a zerk on the internal CV part itself ... these last longer due to you can grease it). Do the sye and see if it is long enough. worst come to worse you can just drive it for a short while with just the front DL, and should cost about $130 to get it legnthened and re-ballanced. hope this helps ya...... if you got any questions just hit me up
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PornstaR said:

[SIZE=-1]dont use the goofy one you find on the quadra-crap ones, they wont work[/SIZE]

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I am pretty sure all 96-98 V8 ZJs came with quadra-crap (249 TC, CV front driveshaft and CV front axles)

There are two ZJ Limiteds in the local junkyard here. I've been wanting to take two things: the right parts for the SYE, and the V8 out of one (I'm wondering if I can swap that in with only minor fab work?)
I'd need to act quickly. They never have V8 ZJs in that yard.

Well anythings possable, just if its worth the time. As for the "parts for the sye" really its just a driveline. Like i said i only looked under one V8 grand and it had some funky driveshaft that wouldnt have worked anywho. Just toss in a stock front and be done.

You can go another way about it too. Use a yoke instead of the flange plate and the driveshaft will bolt right in without any need to buy any conversions parts.
See my site I how to do it. www.go.jeep-xj.info

Gojeep said:

You can go another way about it too. Use a yoke instead of the flange plate and the driveshaft will bolt right in without any need to buy any conversions parts.
See my site I how to do it. www.go.jeep-xj.info

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This is what I was planning on running. How much longer is your custom rear shaft compared to a stock auto tranny front shaft? Also what kind of a lift are you running? I've got a couple front shafts laying around, I figured I would just run them front and rear. Also has anyone ever run the double cardan joint on both ends. I figured the driveshaft would just be unstable, but then I noticed that Tom Woods website showed one. Like I said I've got a couple front driveshafts and at three in the morning one begins to wonder "Why not have two". Seems like another way to get rid of vibes if it works. I don't think it would apply to my application, just a thought. Might be good for a TJ or some other short wheel base application.

I have the best combination to be able to use a stock auto front shaft in the rear as have a auto myself and a D44. The distance between yokes came out the same front and rear.
But if you have a manual and or a D35 rear axle, you are out of luck as both make the rear length between the yokes too long for a auto front shaft. I dont know about the ZJ front shaft mentioned though.
I have 4.5" of lift.

My brother-in-laws 94 V8 ZJ front shaft is approx 1.25" longer than the my XJ's. Using one of these with go-jeeps sye and a d35 should work.

I'm using the RE hack and tap with 211229x and with an auto and the d35 and 5" lift the front xj shaft is the perfect length. The ZJ front shaft might work but I would bet it would be too long.

Gojeep said:

But if you have a manual and or a D35 rear axle, you are out of luck as both make the rear length between the yokes too long for a auto front shaft. I dont know about the ZJ front shaft mentioned though.
I have 4.5" of lift.

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I'm at 6.5" of lift and, until next week, have a D35 in which I'm running a stock front driveshaft in the rear. I think it just depends on where you make the cut for the yoke and the output shaft. I might have mine slightly longer than yours.

That said, I drive mine only 3-4,000 miles a year and taking the possible risk of possible bearing damage in my t-case by the lever effect of having the driveshaft out a little further is worthwhile to me. That said, it's only a little longer and the output shaft fills the entire slip yoke that was bolted on to the end with the slip yoke butted against the bearing race.

So Codyyy???? You have any of the parts for you SYE??? If not I have the RE HnT brand new here with all the bolts, taps and bits for sale... (blew my 242 up before I got a chance to install... swapped to a 231 that had a SYE on it already)

Thought this might be helpful to everyone. Shows driveshaft lengths on each vehicle, year, engine, tranny, shaft type, etc . . .

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J321-CV.PDF

I just did my H&T with a ZJ front driveshaft, d44 and 8in lift and it is to long!!! Not sure why, but I am looking into it. Just thought I would post this up before someone assumes a zj would work.

I converted last week to an 8.8 axle from a D35 and with the addition of the u-joint flange the stock shaft I was using was now too long.

I measured about 21.5" from the weld to weld on the long tube. The new one I used is about 19.5" on the same section and it works well. I'm keeping a shorter version for my spare since it looks like it would serve in the rear and the front for getting out of a tough spot.