Crank & Camshaft sensors / Distributor Please Help!

[ChuckD]

93', HO 4.0, MT, 150k

I'm just about fed up with my sensor problems. When my XJ is freaking out, after it warms up to 210 degrees, no spark or rough idle. The computer tells me it one of two sensors, of course the CPS code 54 and code 11 wich is the camshaft sensor. I have replaced the CPS too many times to count, played the warrenty game so I didn't break my pocketbook.

Anyway, I thinking that it leading to the camshaft position sensor and with that I might as well replace the distrubutor, wires and plugs and coil. In December its coming up to the smog inspection anyway.

So what do you guys recomend, should I sell out the dough for Accel, or go to the dealer? I know for plugs I'll go Champion or NGK. The last time I did this I got the autozone specials.

I don't want anything fancy, just trouble free.

[M. Lake]

Well you could look at it this way.......the 4.0 HO comes with the best ignition system you could get. Putting a MSD, or any other ecu modded chip, gives practicly nothing in gains. So do you want to pay big bucks for the same amount of power? Go with stock, Accel would be a fancy priced stock output cap and rotor. Or it would depend on how much dealer wants for cap and rotor. Local parts store in my town has cap and rotor for around $12

But there is 2 different types of distributors. If you look at the rotor and how it clips on, you can (with parts guys help) figure out which you got. The other type was like $35-40. Don't know why!

[martin]

Yes, replacing the distributor is the best way to replace the cam postioin sensor. I have a Renix XJ and paid a small forturne for a "new" distributor from the dealer. I wanted a new sensor, not one that passed inspection at the rebuilder.

[Greg Smith]

If it is freaking out and throwing those codes only after high temps then I would suspect one of the wire harness connectors on the sensors. I rebuilt my connectors when I had similar problems. The female side (the part on the engine wire harness) of the connectors wears out since it is not replaced with the sensor since the sensor only provides the new male side. Heat can cause the connector to expand and degrade the connection. On pre 91 the cps is especially a problem since it only produces up to 1 volt. The newer ones use about 5 volts. Do a search under my name and you will see my rebuild post. Also once I got a new cam postion sensor by get a rebuilt distributor from autozone - it came w. a new sensor installed - much cheaper and easier than installing a new sensor in the existing distributor. Make sure you remove and install the distributor per the fsm or chilton instructions. Even on tooth off causes performance problems and it is not adjustable - you have to have it installed right. Greg

[ChuckD]

Awsome, First off thanks for the advice.

I year ago I rebuild my distributer, the first time I had ignition trouble. I know about matching up those teeth to, that computer sure warks hard at keeping that engine running.

Question on the connector, how far did you go back, all the way to the loom or into the loom. Alos did you find and OEM female or did you have to hard wire the sensor's in.

Also with that in mind. Could I st try wrapping the connections with some type of heat reflective tape? I guess it would be worth a try before I go deep into cutting wire and replacing everything.

Thanks everyone for the brainstorming!

[Greg Smith]

Here is my prior posts on this which should answer your question.

If on a crank but no start the unplug and replug of the cps wire harness connector gets you going you may just have a wire harness connector going bad and may not need to replace the cps sensor. Here is how to test: hook volt meter to both wires from cps sensor w. harness unplugged. Set the range on meter to less than one volt. Crank engine and if cps generates .5 to .8 or more volts it is ok and your connectors need tightening or replacing. I got my parts for a couple of $ at pepboy but advanceauto.com also has them. They were made my Dorman under the Motormite Conductite tech grad name # 85303, 85304 and 85305. There are about 5 pieces in each box. You can also get a small tool set that helps on the install number 85360. I fixed my 89 this way a couple of months ago when I got tired of unplugging and replugging the connector every few weeks. My cps was only 1 yr old so the engine side harness connector part was worn out. I replaced both the female and male side internals of the connectors and it not only starts every time but the idle was also improved. Greg