87 jeep being a pain again

well right now its really hard to start (cranks for a really really long time), sometimes it won't start and I have to leave it sit for a little while (I don't want to flood it) and when it does start its after about a good 15 seconds of cranking. I won't crank it any longer because I don't want to burn out the starter. After all of this I have another problem too. I have lost the cluster and shifter lights, and the clock. The funny thing is the clock can be turned on when the headlights are off, but the gauge lights never come on. I am hoping this is just the switch of a fuse cause I have spares for those but I think it might be a circut breaker because a little while ago, the clock got dim and the radio stoped working, but it was only temporary.

Edit: also I doubt this is a burnt out bulb because ther are at least 2 bulbs on for the cluster probably more because all of the instrument pannel is light along with the shifter bezel.

I would start by checking the battery and wiring good, then check the starter. Make sure you have good fuel pressure.

cps.....and or fuel pump like jess said.Do a fuel pressure test.
Take your cps off and do an ohms test,then get back to us with the numbers...

Lighting problem sounds like the head light switch and wiring to it is going bad. Common problem especially as they get that old. Speaking from experience. If the head lights are dim too it is probalby the alternator/voltage regulator dying.

If it restarts easily once it is warmed up I would blame the Intake air temperature sensor. If not, then I would try holding the gas peddle to the floor, this shuts off the fuel injectors so it can start if it was flooded.

Very good idea to check the battery clamp/post connections as well.

just somthing I have noticed and reading this made me think of this again. Is it normal to hear the fuel pump once the engine is running? I can hear a pretty good whistleing sound from the back of the truck. I have had problems with this before (the little hose on the pump failed and it couldn't build up enough pressure to get to the rail). The Pump survived that episode but to my knowledge its the origional BOSH from 1987.

well I have a headlight switch at home thats going to go in tomorow. The Alternator and battery I have are fairly new, and the headlights are still pretty strong. The funny thing is the clock, the clock will be on when the headlights are off (position 1) but when I turn them on (position 2 or 3) they will not come on. Also the dome lights are apparently unaffected (I have the domes out but the small map lights still work so I assume these both share a common powersource). I have checked the fuses as well on my lunch break and they are all good.

the_bandit87 said:

well I have a headlight switch at home thats going to go in tomorow. The Alternator and battery I have are fairly new, and the headlights are still pretty strong. The funny thing is the clock, the clock will be on when the headlights are off (position 1) but when I turn them on (position 2 or 3) they will not come on. Also the dome lights are apparently unaffected (I have the domes out but the small map lights still work so I assume these both share a common powersource). I have checked the fuses as well on my lunch break and they are all good.

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The clock lights on two circuits, with the headlights on it gets power from the Dimmer circuit (headlight switch). Same place as the instrument and shifter lights.
There are two fuses in the dimmer circuit, first is the parking light fuse then the power goes to the dimmer part of the headlight switch and then through the instrument fuse to the dash, shifter, ashtray and clock bulbs. Fairly sure about the path, more sure there are two fuses in the dimmer circuit.
I jumped the dimmer part of the switch, my dash lights and the others are always on bright now. The dimmer part of the headlight switch messes up way to often and the switch is a pain to change out.

thanks alot, I have spent the last little while looking at an FSM, so with the info you've given me I should be able to get this fixed. I think since I already have a new one I am going to replace the switch, if it goes again later on I'll jump it then. Thanks for the info. As far as the other stuff goes I will have a look at the sensors, from what you guys have said, I should have a look at the Crank Position sensor, the Intake Air Temp Sensor, and have a look at the IAC and the Throttle Postion sensor.

ok just thought I would let you guys know its fixed. Turns out the interior lamps fues had blown (fuse was burnt inside but did not look broken, no continuitiy though) and the resistor on the dimmer switch had melted and turned to dust. Its all fixed now though. Thanks again everyone for the help.