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Pulling engine. With or without Tranny?

G

grn98xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kearney, Mo
We are getting ready to pull the engine in my dad's 89 cherokee. Would you leave the tranny in the vehicle or pull it with the motor? I have done some searching, but I have not found any great answers as to the benefits either way.

Thanks for any help.
 
well I will say this...
after very recently having to pull and replace the engine twice. Just dealing with the engine was enough to keep me busy, I could not imagine having tranny along with.
Also realize I have a pretty nice 4 ton lift with L/L and with it fully extended I still had to be REALLY carefully on more than one occasion. The 4.0 GETS PRETTY TIGHT going both ways. I would not want to even think about dealing with additional length/weight of trans...

Though do yourself a favor and pull that radiator and core support, with that out of the way you have 2-4" more room. or if you are dead set on pulling as one go ahead and remove the header panel and A/C condensor, hell then you can pull everything with -0- worries.
 
When I redid my engine I did not pull the tranny. It was in my garge and would not have had the room up top to do it if I wanted to anyway. The 4.0 is burly anyway. If you don't have a reason to pull the tranny don't bother.

Also go a step further to make your life alot easier. Not only take out the radiator and all that but pull the entire front clip. Like 96Yeepster said the 4.0 gets tight. Taking off the front will help alot so that you don't have to try and angle the engine just right to get it in and out of the compartment.
 
Thanks for the replies. We did remove the front header panel and radiatior (we are going to update to a open system). I have read how much of a pain it is to get to the bolts on the top of the tranny (the e 12 bolt). I bought a 2' extension and a set of the external star sockets and we are going to try and get to it tonigt. We have everything ready to pull except the tranny bolts and motor mount bolts. Any help from you guys that have been through this is greatly appreciated.
 
The bolt on top of the tranny was a PITA but I got it with a 12 point socket.

Is it auto of standard? IF auto you may want to think about replacing the tQ converter.
 
It is an auto. Has 193,000 miles on it. What is the reason for replacing torque converter. Is it one of those things, since you have it apart, you might as well do it?
 
Actually the top two bolts are not that big a deal if once you get it off the mounts simply lower the engine for clearance.

Also do you and whomever you sell the jeep to a favor AND REPLACE THOSE BOLTS with regular ones!

When I pulled mine I found out the the "Army reservist mechanic" that I bought it from had only installed 2 of the 4 bolts, that along with many other "what the hell was he thinking?" type of things I have run across really makes me feel sorry for the people that drive vehicles he has worked on.

Mine has 173K and I lieft my converter alone. I think he was saying they are a pain to replace so while you have it apart type thing...
Also, and this will be a big time saver for you, before reinstalling engine rotate the flex plate, or trq converter where the two holes are close, if not lined up.
TRUST me it is a big PITA if you have to blindly line them up.
 
Last edited:
After separating the engine from the tranny
I used a tie-down strap to support(cradle) the front of the tranny.
This allows the vehicle to be rolled without the need
for a jack or blocks to support the tranny.
Also during the install - the tranny can't slip of the jack or blocks.
This also works for tranny only install...
Eddie
 
I was able to take a regular small 12pt wrench & access those top 2 pesky bolts from the top of the motor the last 2 times I have replaced engines, prior to that I was undoing the motor mounts before I had access to them. you should be able to remove the driveshaft & reach your hand up to undo the CPS bolts.

If you have the radiator/etc out then you should be fine to pull the motor. I don't see any real advantage to pulling the tranny also.
 
I have supported the tranny in my TJ many times with the ratchet strap, but I have frame rails to loop over, I didnt know if you would be able to do that on a XJ ( I guess I never looked to see if there were any holes that you could attach the hooks on the strap to)

We have had many issues as to why the previous owner did what he did. Makes you wonder why they even bothered working on it themselves if they were that clueless. lag bolts, sheet rock screws, duct tape on wire splices:dunno: just to name a few.
 
jfiscus said:
I was able to take a regular small 12pt wrench & access those top 2 pesky bolts from the top of the motor the last 2 times I have replaced engines, prior to that I was undoing the motor mounts before I had access to them. you should be able to remove the driveshaft & reach your hand up to undo the CPS bolts.

If you have the radiator/etc out then you should be fine to pull the motor. I don't see any real advantage to pulling the tranny also.
Click to expand...

I think that is what I am hearing. That was our initial thought, but then we started second guessing ourselves when we heard some nigtmare stories about getting to the top bolts on the tranny.
 
Just the motor, and while its out, replace the front seal on the tranny. Make sure you get the TC all the way back in to the pump before you drop the motor back in(turn it in 3 clicks).

I do not remove the hood, just the radiator and core support will give you enough room to wiggle it out, its tight any way you do it.
 
I pulled engine, auto trans, and transfer cast together to "save" the effort of removing the top two bolts-- 10 minutes into the project, I knew I would have been better pulling them apart first-- it can be done, but definitely NOT worth the effort!! That's one big honkin' chunk of weight to "finesse" out of the engine bay inside the garage!
--Shorty

P.S. it's really lopsided once you get it half way out too!
 
grn98xj said:
It is an auto. Has 193,000 miles on it. What is the reason for replacing torque converter. Is it one of those things, since you have it apart, you might as well do it?
Click to expand...
dont worry about the TC, but DO replace the flexplate as it is common for them oo crack with high milage
 
We got the motor out tonight. Those top bolts were a pita. We are pretty concerned about getting those bolts back in, seems like it will be next to impossible to get them started.

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions of things to fix or replace while the motor is out?

Does anyone have a link to a good engine rebuild write-up?
 
grn98xj said:
I have supported the tranny in my TJ many times with the ratchet strap, but I have frame rails to loop over, I didnt know if you would be able to do that on a XJ ( I guess I never looked to see if there were any holes that you could attach the hooks on the strap to)

We have had many issues as to why the previous owner did what he did. Makes you wonder why they even bothered working on it themselves if they were that clueless. lag bolts, sheet rock screws, duct tape on wire splices:dunno: just to name a few.
Click to expand...


On the duct tape, he was just following the example set by the factory. There are a few crimp-splices, mostly grounds but I found at least one power wire, that are covered with duct tape and buried in the wiring harness.
 
Replace the top 2 bolts with hex head grade 8 like others have suggested. I get the motor lined up on the tranny and pulled down tight with the bottom 2 bolts, then drop the front of the motor down far enough to get to the top 2 bolts from the top. The only way you will have clearance to do this is if you leave off the front motor mount brackets until the you get the motor tight to the tranny. Then you will have to pull the front of the motor up enough to reinstall the motor mount brackets back on.
 
I recently did a swap in mine and pulled the tranny with the engine since I couldn't get those two bolts out of the the top of the tranny. It came right out and took a little time to get back in, but it was so much easier to bolt up the tranny outside where I had access to it. I can see where pulling just the engine would be quicker, but mating back up to the tranny has got to be longer when you have to keep getting out from underneath to move the engine for alignment.
 
Thanks for the replies. We are getting it ready to take to the machine shop. Had 2 bad lifters and 2 bad rod bearings, 1 of them was gone. I will keep you updated and look for some more help when we get it back from the machine shop.
 
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