What problems with 35's?

So i was wondering what you guys could add to the list of crap to do that comes along with upgrading to 35's

ok so heres what i got right now:

rear axle: dana 44 with yukon 4.88's and full detroit. just replaced everything with the brakes except the backing plate, national leaf springs sittin on 5* shims. 1.5" lift teraflex shackles.

front axle: dana 30 . yukon 4.88's open carrier. rock krawler 3-link long arms. full heim steering with 1.5" OD .250 DOM tubing for tie rod and drag link. tnt trac bar and frame mount. smaller, pre-97 ujoints in shafts.

im runnin about 6 inches of lift with plenty of clearance for 35's (i have 33 procraps mud terrains right now) i plan on running 35x12.50 r15 MTR's on 15x8" rims.

at the same time that i get these tires i get the c-rok steering box reinforcement plate.

i would like to run a aussie front locker sometime after i get these tires and just carry spare shafts and weld in the ujoints. but with aired down 35's on a dana 30 should i just forget about it or go for it. i hear some people snap shafts like their toothpicks, ive heard others say they havent ever had a problem. would i be ok if i just carried spares? (BTW im too broke to afford alloys right now) should i just leave it open?

im generally pretty easy on the throttle when crawlin and on the trail.

please. any input is welcome
thank you
-Shomsky

why downgrade to the smaller older style u-joint?

why weld your u-joint in the shaft?

just wondering, cause i've never heard anyone say anything like it before

Oizarod115 said:

why downgrade to the smaller older style u-joint?

why weld your u-joint in the shaft?

just wondering, cause i've never heard anyone say anything like it before

Click to expand...

He didnt down grade, he has stock shafts, is what it sounds like to me.

And he is talking about welding the u joint caps in to stop em coming out because his joints dont have full circle clips.

Basically i think if you really have to run 35's on stock shafts with the d30 then leave it open untill you can upgrade to alloys. 30 spline option is nice with an ARB.

Just be really easy on that skinny pedal if you are turning & trying to climb!

Also you may need to add a little more bumpstop.

Goodluck.

i've still never heard of anyone having a problem with the u-joints coming out of the shaft. but if you welded them in, you're out a shaft when you have to change them.. you'd have to replace shafts every time a u-joint started goin downhill

Oizarod115 said:

i've still never heard of anyone having a problem with the u-joints coming out of the shaft. but if you welded them in, you're out a shaft when you have to change them.. you'd have to replace shafts every time a u-joint started goin downhill

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OK, but it has happened & people have welded the caps before.

And i believe this would be to get him by untill he can replace em with alloys. Not because he wants to keep them forever.

His call.

I have pretty much the same setup you are going to have. So far I havent had any trouble with the 35s that I stepped up to from my 32s.
I would plate the inner and outer for the steering box.
Make sure you have some extra dom for your steering (although, if you break that, I think your going to have other problems). So you probably wont need that.
Like was said above, bumpstop, and trim as needed. Your front if I recall was trimmed well, but the back could be more.
How are your brakes? My brakes sucked after going to 35s, which is why Im off to the junk yard tomorrow for a WJ booster.
Do you have spare shafts, front and rear?
Do you have ujoint U bolts, or straps? Might be something to look into as well. Carry spare yokes. Had a friend break a yoke just messing around at hollister. Not sure if that was because he was on 35s, or just general breakage.

Thats all that I can think of for now. Others should have some better stuff then I can think of.

I ran 35's on d44 rear and d30 front for quite a while with no breakage.
and had full detroit rear and LS up front.

On your spare axles, grab a set of newer shafts for the larger ujoints. Welding in the caps is a good idea.

I did tear the steering box out. Axle wrap was more pronounced, ate a rear yoke and several ujoints on the drive shaft.

Oizarod115 said:

i've still never heard of anyone having a problem with the u-joints coming out of the shaft. but if you welded them in, you're out a shaft when you have to change them.. you'd have to replace shafts every time a u-joint started goin downhill

Click to expand...

It's because once the cap comes out the joint fails. I'm sure you've heard of broken joints.

Welding the cap keeps it on and decrsases the likelyhood of breaking.

If you break a U-joint on a stock shaft, it will take the shaft with it anyway. There really is no re-useing stock D30 shafts.

Notice how warped the ear on the shaft is in this pic. And this was a "gentle" break compared to the usual. I broke the ears completely off on another shaft, just don't have a pic.

I broke four stock shafts in about 5 months. Now I have Alloy USA and adjusted my steering stops so no issues now.

smaller u-joints as in teh 260s?? or 297 vs 760?? if you've got 260s....atleast get 297s!!

I'm running Q78s on D30 and D44 with detroits front and rear and 4.88s. No busted shafts (knock on wood) just caps backing out. Alloys are on the list. I carry two sets of spare front shafts!! Carry spare driveshafts, and atleast 3 yokes!! Last time I was out I broke two yokes!!

Brakes, you need 4wheel discs.

Problems? you'll go through ball joints pretty fast. get lifetime warranty ones!

Also D30 hub bearings.

If you're not crazy, you should be alright, just knowing that you have to keep up with the wear and tear on the D30.

I think the biggest issue that I have is rear axle wrap. I have alcan springs and a TnT Ubolt eliminators (which I destroyed, they're getting cut off ASAP). The axle wrap is bad. The Alcan springs are pretty darn new. I'm looking into getting a traction bar. That should prevent the axle wrap and busted yokes.

I have the strap style yokes for now until I upgrade. If I had the Ubolt style ones, the actual Ujoint would have broken. Either way, spares are a must.

Oh yeah, and then there is that issue of what to do with the spare. Mine sits in the back....too much weight for the roof.

Also, if you have a winch, use the cable/rope as a limiting strap. with longarms they like to unload going up real steep stuff.

I run about the same setup as you Shomsky462 except for post 97 shafts. Definitely plan on getting some sort of steering box reinforcement. you mentioned c-rocks... I recently ripped mine off the frame. also tacking the caps has helped me make my stock shafts last. plan on bumpstopping a lot in front with that 3-link. I'm trimmed to the max and still rub from time to time

yeah, bump stops are good

Definately go to the junk yard and get some 97 or newer shafts for the front. You will break those 260's trust me. Without alloys I would either leave it open or put a limited slip in. A lot depends on how you wheel, one guy in our club has been running 260 joints on a locked front and 35's for a long time with no problems, but he is VERY carefull on the trail. He just upgrated to alloys and 760's. My alloys and 760's with an aussie locker and 35's have lasted me 4 years now with no breakage, I am not a gas pedal masher, I like my Jeep to much.

Don't leave it open!! Just get 297/760 shafts in there...and get a second pair for trail spares. Just keep in mind while you're wheeling that you've got stock shafts, a front locker, and 35s.

Dont weld the caps all the way around. First it will burn out all the grease out of it, plus theres no way to replace the bearings if its completly welded. Just tack the caps on in 2 or 3 places and keep an eye on them. If a tack breaks, reweld it and continue on. I did this with my dana 30 and never had an issue with 32s or 33s and a stroker motor and manual tranny. The next thing I would do is some frame stiffeners and or a cage. I didnt put a cage in mine and the body is coming appart at the seams after 5 years of wheeling.

AARON

I have a similair set up,
35" MTR's high pinion 30 front, with ARB, 297 shafts, 44 rear with ARB and 4.56 gear, about 6"-7" lift and have no problem so far. Just be easy on the throttle which should be no problem with 4.88's. and you will need bumpstop extensions and some trimming.

There's two reason why you would weld u-joints:

1) your stock shafts are junk and wallowed out so you tack them so they won't fall out if you break
2) weld the whole -joint up so they won't wallow out stock shafts, then break

Gaius said:

There's two reason why you would weld u-joints:

1) your stock shafts are junk and wallowed out so you tack them so they won't fall out if you break
2) weld the whole -joint up so they won't wallow out stock shafts, then break

Click to expand...

ok, that makes sense. i was still sittin here scratchin my head... gotcha now. thanks gauis

Starboard M said:

I have pretty much the same setup you are going to have. So far I havent had any trouble with the 35s that I stepped up to from my 32s.
I would plate the inner and outer for the steering box.
Make sure you have some extra dom for your steering (although, if you break that, I think your going to have other problems). So you probably wont need that.
Like was said above, bumpstop, and trim as needed. Your front if I recall was trimmed well, but the back could be more.
How are your brakes? My brakes sucked after going to 35s, which is why Im off to the junk yard tomorrow for a WJ booster.
Do you have spare shafts, front and rear?
Do you have ujoint U bolts, or straps? Might be something to look into as well. Carry spare yokes. Had a friend break a yoke just messing around at hollister. Not sure if that was because he was on 35s, or just general breakage.

Thats all that I can think of for now. Others should have some better stuff then I can think of.

Click to expand...

So lets see:
-Bumpstops sound like a good idea and especially in the rear. but i think i could do a little mor trimming but ill see how much later.
-My steering... if i break that... im pretty much screwed i dont know what i would do. unless i carry around an extra tie rod and drag link with the adapter ends already welded in. but thats not gonna happen. oh and ball joints are brand new too.
-As far as the steering box reinforcement im going to go with a C-Rok reinforcement kit. my box is starting to creak and loosen up right now, so i need to do that anyways.
-Brakes in the rear and brand spankin new (everything including the drums, except for the backing plates). the fronts are still ok.
-Spare stuff: I carry a rear driveshaft, a front driveshaft, RF and LF axle shafts with the unit hubs, 4 driveshaft u joints, and a crap load of u joint/yoke straps and mini ubolts. i need to get a spare yoke though. except what do you consider a "broken yoke". cause right now i dont have the little u joint retainer clips and havent for some time (probably been runnin without them for about a year now) but i drilled through the holes in the yoke and put 1/4" mini ubolts through them.
i also carry a full set of tools, all fluids, recovery gear, hi lift, etc...
however i dont have spare rear shafts. but plan on getting chromo rears sometime then usin the stocks as spares.

as for the front locker deal... im not sure what im going to do. but until i fugure it out im just going to leave it open. but when i get some more money ill throw in a aussie and some alloys.

Any other issues any body has had runnin 35's on a dana 30 and 44 combo with 4.88's and a detroit in rear?
Thanks
-Shomsky

Shomsky462 said:

So lets see:
i need to get a spare yoke though. except what do you consider a "broken yoke". cause right now i dont have the little u joint retainer clips and havent for some time (probably been runnin without them for about a year now) but i drilled through the holes in the yoke and put 1/4" mini ubolts through them.

Click to expand...

It sounds like the same thing you broke off. Its the little tab that keeps the ujoint cap in place, and the ujoint centered.

Puked a cap and we had to replace the Ujoint, and went ahead and replaced the yoke too.