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Powertrax with axle shaft change

R

Rod Knee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grand Jct., CO
I have a chrysler 8.25 rear with 27 spline. I would like to upgrade to a 29 spline. Would also like to go to limited slip diff from my open diff. I've considered lockers but I don't want to mess with ring and pinions just now.

I know the path of least resistance might be just to get the entire 29 spline axle assembly at the salvage yard. But theoretically, I'm wondering if I could just install a Powertrax LSD and then slide in the 29's. In the quadratec catalogue it says their system "replaces" the open diff, which I take to mean I could indeed just install the prduct and then add the 29's. Am I missing something?
 
Powertrax No-Slip is a locker, not a Limited-Slip.

I believe you will also need a 29sp carrier.. so you'd need: 29sp shafts, 29sp carrier, PT No-slip....

The 27sp and 29sp carriers are different.

EDIT: and dont buy it from Q-tec.. that price is absolutely crazy.. give DC @ www.DC4WD.com a call.. they're something like 360.00 shipped...
 
i was going to do the same thing as you. get some chromoly 29 splines, and a lunchbox locker, and done. then i found out the 27 spline carrier isn't big enough to hold the 29 spline shafts, so i said screw it, and just bought a ford 8.8. might be a little more expensive, but its a lot stronger. you going to invest a minimum 400 bucks if you get the powertrax, shafts, and carrier, and thats if the junk yard gives away the shafts, and carrier. i got my 8.8 for 300...just something to think about
 
Thanks guys, sounds like the 29 carrier will at least fit in the 8.25 housing that I have, anyway. So I guess I got that goin' for me.

Sounds like the route to go is really just new Ford 8.8 or post-"97 XJ axle, housing and all.
 
The 29 carrier will fit what you have, but it means setting up the ring and pinion again - you might as well regear at the same time.

What size tires do you have and what kind of wheeling do you do? Maybe some 27 spline alloy shafts will have you done.
 
cal said:
The 29 carrier will fit what you have, but it means setting up the ring and pinion again - you might as well regear at the same time.

What size tires do you have and what kind of wheeling do you do? Maybe some 27 spline alloy shafts will have you done.
Click to expand...

And before I'd spend 300.00 on an 8.8 I'd spend 25-50.00 more and get a XJ Dana 44...
 
cal said:
The 29 carrier will fit what you have, but it means setting up the ring and pinion again - you might as well regear at the same time.

What size tires do you have and what kind of wheeling do you do? Maybe some 27 spline alloy shafts will have you done.
Click to expand...

Right now I have just 235's, I do mostly moderate wheeling (obviously). I don't have an overwhelming compulsion to do rock crawling for its own sake. My goal is to gradually upgrade my rig, eventually going to, say, 32's, which is why I'd like to take care of the axle upgrade when I do the diff upgrade. I'm not sure what to think about the chromoly shafts, I've read a statement that implied they may not have the flexibility needed in the XJ shaft, which, if I understand correctly, must bear the weight of the vehicle.
 
Rod Knee said:
Right now I have just 235's, I do mostly moderate wheeling (obviously). I don't have an overwhelming compulsion to do rock crawling for its own sake. My goal is to gradually upgrade my rig, eventually going to, say, 32's, which is why I'd like to take care of the axle upgrade when I do the diff upgrade. I'm not sure what to think about the chromoly shafts, I've read a statement that implied they may not have the flexibility needed in the XJ shaft, which, if I understand correctly, must bear the weight of the vehicle.
Click to expand...

Ignore what you read; the guys on 35s, 37s and 40s run CrMo shafts with no problem - I'm sure you can do it on 32's. In theory 1541h steel may have a hair better strength against sheering off that way; but that isn't where axles break - they brake from twisting force, where CrMo pulls through.

If you never plan on going bigger than 31/32, you can get away with 27 spline. If you plan on regearing, which you want to do! (gas mileage!) I would do 29 spline at the same time.
 
cal said:
Ignore what you read; the guys on 35s, 37s and 40s run CrMo shafts with no problem - I'm sure you can do it on 32's. In theory 1541h steel may have a hair better strength against sheering off that way; but that isn't where axles break - they brake from twisting force, where CrMo pulls through.

If you never plan on going bigger than 31/32, you can get away with 27 spline. If you plan on regearing, which you want to do! (gas mileage!) I would do 29 spline at the same time.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Cal. Right now I have front and rear aftermarket bumpers, quarter guards, and AJ's rocker guards. Also have JKS sway bar discos; the 2365's are just that 235's, but they are BFG AT's. The tranny case and gas tank skids are coming. As you can see I'm armoring up as #1 priority. Its a stepwise process with help from guys like you much appreciated.
 
wishihad1 said:
uncc engineer...why would you go d44 over the 8.8, besides the obvious that it bolts right up
Click to expand...

It bolts up, has more aftermarket support, proper width, stronger upgrades available, no c-clips, slightly better ground clearance, and parts are easier to find when you need them.
 
true on the bolts up..i havn't seen one thing for the d44, and not the 8.8, the 8.8 is 5/8 of an inch narrower..whoopdie do, both of them can be upgraded to 33 spline shafts, c-clips...well ya gotta break the shafts first, and ground clearance...thats what a grinder is made for

haha...not trying to be a douche, but i see a way around all those problems
 
5.13 gears

35 spline shafts and lockers

full float hub kits

lack of c-clips

I wasn't the one saying the 44 is better than the 8.8 - stock I think the 8.8 is better, but not a better platform to build on; but thats my opinion. Someone asked for reasons the 44 was a better platform and I listed some. If I weren't sitting at work and distracted by earning my paycheck - I could probably come up with a lot more.
 
One more thing then. I have selectrac and want to continue its uncompromised use, living in the north central part of the USA. I've read that a rear LSD/posi/anti spin is better than a rear locker with selectrac in icy conditions. The only LSD kit I am aware of is the complete assembly in carrier. From the discussion above, I gather I would need to reset the lash installing this assembly (yes/no?). If so, I would be inclined to regear at that time and jst go to the 29 spline then.
 
You would be best off to put in a selectable locker. Run it open when your in full time 4. ARB, while expensive, is your answer.

If you had an 8.8 or 44, you could run an Ected and have limited slip open with locked as an option.
 
cal said:
You would be best off to put in a selectable locker. Run it open when your in full time 4. ARB, while expensive, is your answer.

If you had an 8.8 or 44, you could run an Ected and have limited slip open with locked as an option.
Click to expand...

Yes, pricey, especially with reseting the lash, which itself points to regearing all at the same time. I really wonder how disadvantagous a locker could really be on ice, even knowing that the last thing you want is spinning tires.
 
Rod Knee said:
Yes, pricey, especially with reseting the lash, which itself points to regearing all at the same time. I really wonder how disadvantagous a locker could really be on ice, even knowing that the last thing you want is spinning tires.
Click to expand...

Well, living on los angeles I don't have *massive* experiance with a locker on ice, but I've been in the ice and snow with my detroit about 15 times (Tahoe, Big Bear) and haven't had any real problems yet - but I throttle like an old lady. I understand that when it does kick and go, its going to be unpredictable and all at once though, and harder to recover than when open. I'd probably eat ramen for a month or two and pony up for a selectable. If you're going that far, might be worth spending the money on an 8.8 and going with an Ected, its $200 cheaper than an ARB and gives you limited slip + locked - after the cost of the 8.8 you'll only be another $100 or so into it for a much stronger rear end.
 
yea but why does all that matter if the lowest gear you can get for the d 30 is 4.88???

assuming ofcoarse one is going to stick with the 30......like the majority of people do.
 
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