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Issue with 4.88 gear install on 8.8 rear end

gixxer410

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Centennial, CO
I bought a ford 8.8 rear end and just got my 4.88 gears for it. After setting up the gears, getting the carrier back in, axles and clips in, All goes good untill I attempt to install the king pin through the carrier. IT DOES NOT GO IN!!!! After some searching for a while I find the most common solution is to notch one of the teeth on the ring gear to buy some room for the pin but that sounds like buy a new gear set next week! Anyone have any answers on how I should go about this.
:doh:
 
Notch the tooth and slide the pin in.

Use a die grinder and prep the area with paper towels like you are doing surgery.

I've had to do that a bunch of times. It only takes A LITTLE bit.

If you call randy's or ARB they both reccomend this method.
 
Nope. Just machine off a little bit off of ONE tooth. You could even use a file but it would take a while. Take off a little, then try to get the pin in there. If it doesn't fit repeat the process.

Trust me, I've done it before, and you do have to do it with 4.56 and numerically higher ratios on the 8.8's.
 
One other option that might give more clearance with less grinding is to index the ring gear so the pin falls between 2 teeth.That usually doesnt work by itself but reduces the amount you have to remove!
 
wishihad1 said:
gixxer....its heres you sign. and you say that if you correct me...not if i correct my self..thank you come again

Both of your posts were retarded, you should consider that before getting all in a hissy.
 
or the best way period is to just buy the stronger cross pin from randys (The real way they recommend that its remedied) for like 22$. Its notched and allows no grinding on the ring gear as well as a stronger pin.
 
ROBERTK said:
or the best way period is to just buy the stronger cross pin from randys (The real way they recommend that its remedied) for like 22$. Its notched and allows no grinding on the ring gear as well as a stronger pin.

Ummm, then why do they have a how-to for grinding the teeth?

Randy's Ring and Pinion said:
Getting a cross pin shaft to clear a thick gear
In many cases it is necessary to grind one or more teeth on a ring gear in order to reinstall the cross pin in many c-clip style rearends. In most cases this will not interfere with the contact pattern of the gear or decrease the strength in any way as long as it is done properly. In some rare instances you may need to grind as much as ¼ of one or two teeth away. Although we have seen vehicles run with half of a ring gear or pinion tooth missing, we do NOT recommend pushing your luck that far. However, we have no problem running a gear-set in our own vehicles with 1/4 of tooth ground off of the toe or 1/8th of the heel of one or two of the ring gear teeth.

Gear grinding should always be done on the bench top, not while gear is installed. This is to avoid getting metal and other contaminants into the housing or differential carrier. In most cases you will only need to grind about 1/8” off the corner of the tooth. After the desired amount of material is removed, you need to use a medium grit 3M disk to round the edges and remove any burrs. Be sure to clean a gear thoroughly before you reinstall it into the housing.

http://www.ringpinion.com/TipOfTheDay.aspx?TipID=7
 
RedHeep said:
Ummm, then why do they have a how-to for grinding the teeth?



http://www.ringpinion.com/TipOfTheDay.aspx?TipID=7

Because they dont offer a Notched cross pin for all the applications that would require one or notching of the ring gear.

I didnt say it was Not acceptable means to the solution, only that its not the recommend means, if a Notched cross pin is avail.
 
ROBERTK said:
Because they dont offer a Notched cross pin for all the applications that would require one or notching of the ring gear.

I didnt say it was Not acceptable means to the solution, only that its not the recommend means, if a Notched cross pin is avail.

That's where I disagree. How could a cross pin missing half of the pin be stronger than a full cross pin?
 
RedHeep said:
That's where I disagree. How could a cross pin missing half of the pin be stronger than a full cross pin?

Yeah I guess that makes sense, since a 1"x.120wall piece of mild steel is stronger then a 1"x.088wall of chromoly tube right? I mean the mild steel is thicker and all.

The cross section of the notched pin in the installed position will have the same cross section of moment matieral, as the non notched.

Do you know what your talking about here? Have you ever seen a notched cross pin and are you able to evaluate this situation in a capacity to make rationalized evaluations? Just askin...

Here since I dont think you know what the notched cross pin actually looks like?
88NTCHXPIN.JPG
 
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ROBERTK said:
Yeah I guess that makes sense, since a 1"x.120wall piece of mild steel is stronger then a 1"x.088wall of chromoly tube right? I mean the mild steel is thicker and all.

The cross section of the notched pin in the installed position will have the same cross section of moment matieral, as the non notched.

Do you know what your talking about here? Have you ever seen a notched cross pin and are you able to evaluate this situation in a capacity to make rationalized evaluations? Just askin...

Here since I dont think you know what the notched cross pin actually looks like?

My apologies, I didn't realize you had completed metallurgical studies on crosspins. Can you send all that technical stuff my way? I'd love to read it.

I did, however, speak to some people who's opinion I value much more than yours and that's what I'm sticking with.

Buy a $40 crosspin or grind an 1/8th of an inch off the toe of one gear tooth. You're right, that does make sense.
 
RedHeep said:
My apologies, I didn't realize you had completed metallurgical studies on crosspins. Can you send all that technical stuff my way? I'd love to read it.

I did, however, speak to some people who's opinion I value much more than yours and that's what I'm sticking with.

Buy a $40 crosspin or grind an 1/8th of an inch off the toe of one gear tooth. You're right, that does make sense.

Actually 22$ at Randy's.

And just as I thought.

But I do agree that the ring gear has less stress on it then the Cross pin and that reducing the material (no matter how small) on the ring gear is a much better solution then getting a high strength notched cross pin. Thats a no brainer right there....

In any case to each thier own. When I spent a grand on the locker the gears and the install kit for my 8.8 (before the 14bolt that is) the whopping 22$ was worth it to me.
 
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