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1995 rear main seal

xerox

NAXJA Forum User
so, my rear main popped today(so much for getting tattod this weekend) any recomendations about if taking the tranny out is easier. my jeep is lifted a bit, so that should make it easier to go that route right? any other things that you guys think that i should replace while i'm down there?
thanks
wil:scared:
 
It's a two piece seal, so you shouldn't have to remove engine or transmission-- "sneaky pete" can be your friend too! Sneaky Pete is a tool from Lisle tools that will screw into the upper portion of the seal and allow you to pull it out without removing crankshaft.
- pull oil pan
- remove bearing cap and lower seal
- loosen next two caps
- screw sneaky pete into seal
- give sneaky pete a cuople good tugs (doesn't sound right) and voila seal's
sliding out!


As for the tattoo- just warm the Jeep up first and lean on the exhaust-- it'll brand you for life as a hardcore mekanik-- and when people see the brand and say "Jeepers!", you can reply "YUP!"

good luck, have fun, and enjoy...... or at least good luck!!!
--Shorty
 
Yes read as many writeups as you can find, there are tons of them on all the boards.

Some tips from my personal experiences:

There's absolutely no need to seperate the tranny from the engine, that would be a lot of completely unecessary work.

Buy TWO seals because you'll probably mess one up and they're cheap and you won't want to have to make a second trip to the parts store. Most parts stores will only stock one so you might have to make two stops but it will be worth it. The one piece rubber oil pan gasket is a good idea.

This job is messy as all getout. Drain the oil then let it sit overnight with the plug out before you drop the pan. You could rig up some plastic to keep stuff from dripping on you the whole time.

On mine with 230k it was easy to pop the upper half out with a thin piece of metal but BE VERY VERY CAREFUL not to ding the crank or bearing cap mating surfaces. Use a piece of cardboard or something as a shield to protect the crank in case the tool slips.

Be sure to seal the right bits with a thin even coat of RTV. Be sure to clean all the oil off the surfaces to be RTV'ed with solvent. Be careful not to clean all the oil out of your crank bearings or get solvent in there.

Be carefull to install the upper seal in the proper orientation. The bottom one is assymetrical so you can't screw it up.

Do not overtorque the oil pan bolts. Use a torque wrench or it will leak! apply a thin coat of RTV or hitack or something to both sides of the gasket and to the mating surfaces. If you do break a bolt you will have to drill and tap it or it will leak!

After I did mine it leaked worse than ever, like 2 qt every 100 miles or so. I never did figure out what I did wrong. Don't rush, take the time to carefully do the job right the first time, you don't want to do it again.
 
I'm sure there are writeups - I've covered it at least twice myself!

Search up the posts, but here are a couple of tips for you:

1) Before you start, pour out a cup or a small bowlful of oil - and throw the new seal in it. This will soften the seal, giving two benefits:
- It's easier to install when it's been softened.
- It seals faster if it's soft when it goes in.

Using a little grease will also help the seal go in, but you shouldn't need it. The seal is rubber with a metal core.

2) Use the 1996-up oil sump gasket - which is one-piece moulded rubber, and saves you a lot of wrestling! It should work fine for you - it worked fine on my 88.
 
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