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solderless connectors

C

ChipsXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Broken Arrow, OK
Generally speaking, is it acceptable to use solderless connectors to attach new/replacement harness connector ends? (presuming the connectors are crimped correctly and insulated with shrink tubu and or electrical tape)

Example: to cut off and attach the connector for the coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing?

thanks
 
When it's necessary, it'll work just fine.

Seems you have a good handle on the process.

Only suggestion I would offer is to touch the ends of the bare wire with some dielectric grease to reduce oxidation before inserting into the connector.
 
Soldering will make the best connections, but crimping, done properly is just fine. (that's what the factory does!) Heat shrink tubing is a good idea, beats electrical tape. I like uninsulated terminals & heatshink. If you use the insulated type consider filling the connector with silicone, then insert your wire & crimp...
 
I've used them for years with no problems.

Actually I read an article in Hot Rod Mag. a few years ago and they said that the crimped connectors were better because you're less likely to damage the wires.
 
I don't know how you can damage the wires.

But you can damage the insulation of the wire if you burn it with the soldering iron.

I generally prefer to solder connections, except for the ends of wires like a female connector for a switch. I just crimp that on and be done with it!
 
I've been soldering wires for over 20 years, and the only thing I ever remember damaging was some insulation. The best electrical, and mechanic connection that you can make besides a solid wire is done by soldering. If you can find them, there are some sleeves that have a solder band on the inside, and when they are heated, they solder, shrink, and there is adhesive on the ends so you have a soldered and sealed connection. Do not use silicone RTV to seal anything electrical as it's corrosive.
 
I would just add that although I've been soldering for years, and prefer solder and shrink tubing in general, on older Jeeps you may have problems doing this, especially with wires that are exposed, because the copper will be oxidized even deep into the insulation. When that happens you'll have to do a lot of preparation for soldering, and even then it will often not take very well, whereas a crimped connector will work just fine. If you use good connectors and the correct crimping tool it's probably the best way to do the job quickly.
 
Soldering is ok unless you are repairing wires that do a lot of moving or bending, such as wires that run into the doors or lift gate. Soldering them makes them hard and with time the solder will break. You may find this hard to believe but I have seen it happen. A good crimp connection and shrink tube usually gets the job done.
 
My rule of thumb, and before I get flamed, I don't have a good reason for it. I usually solder anything that may be exposed to the elements like underhood stuff and trailer connections. I crimp interior stuff like radio or interior switches. I have been doing it that way because the old guy that taught me to be a mechanic 35 years ago did his that way and I just followed his lead.
 
I still like to use some heat shrink once the solder is done though, just because i can. and in some places you need the insulation obviously. But since there are a lot of times when crimping is just fine or the only available way, do yourself a favour and buy a good set of ratcheting crimpers. the connection is above and beyond the cheap stamped ones. You know, the ones that come standard in cereal boxes and "Automotive electrical kits".
 
Crimp connectors and heat shrink for anything under the hood. Connections subject to heat cycles that great do sometimes "go cold" on you - and you have the Devil's own time sorting it out if you've done dealt with it before.

I'll solder inside the passenger compartment if I feel the need, but I'll usually just crimp there as well.

I have to diagnose and repair too many solders that have "gone cold," and too many more that were "cold" to begin with, to make me feel like soldering works well underhood. It's just not worth the bother to me.

Throw in all the vibration that engine bay wiring is subject to, and the solder "wicking" up along the strands to make the wire stiff, and you get the broken conductor issues that were mentioned earlier (this is why they can use aluminum conductors in houses, but not in vehicles - aluminum is far more susceptible to failure due to vibration in the smaller sizes used for wiring.)
 
mikeforte said:
My rule of thumb, and before I get flamed, I don't have a good reason for it. I usually solder anything that may be exposed to the elements like underhood stuff and trailer connections. I crimp interior stuff like radio or interior switches. I have been doing it that way because the old guy that taught me to be a mechanic 35 years ago did his that way and I just followed his lead.
Click to expand...

So Jon do I and old man Bruno who taught me have it all backwards? If yes then I need one of those ratcheting crimpers that jesterbomb mentioned. Where do you get one? Never even heard of one before.
 
Here goes nothing...trying to explain (at least one) proper way to crimp...
If you look at a non insulated connector you will see the metal where you shove the wire is FOLDED into a circle (it's not a COMPLETE circle). What you want to do is put the part of the connector where the folds meet into the 'U' shaped portion of the crimper, AWAY from the little part of the crimper that looks like the tip of a screwdriver (that is actually doing the crimping). If you crimp the other way around, (pushing the tip of the screwdriver looking thing) into the space where the folded area is it will squish the connector out of round and you won't have a good connection.
HTH.
 
mikeforte said:
So Jon do I and old man Bruno who taught me have it all backwards? If yes then I need one of those ratcheting crimpers that jesterbomb mentioned. Where do you get one? Never even heard of one before.
Click to expand...

Nah - it's just a matter of personal preference. I've never liked solders underhood - and I've had to fix too many shonky jobs. That's not saying that a good solder can't be done underhood or last more than six months - just that I prefer to not bother (and I tend to think I'm fairly good at both mechanical and electrical soldering.)

If solders are working well for you - no reason for you to stop. I just prefer to not solder anything underhood - pack, crimp, and shrink (squirt a little Ox-Gard on the wire ends before you shove them in the connector.)

I've seen those "packed" crimp connectors with the solder in, but I've not tried them yet.
 
I always use "Kester" Brand solder, and "Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape" and some heatshrink where needed. I've never had a problem with any of my connections under the hood or inside. I guess it's a preference choice. If you are not really good at soldering you should be able to handle crimp connections okay. Most automotive wiring isn't very flexible anyhow, so you should always secure your wiring connections so they don't have any extra stress on them.
 
mccastlej said:
I always use "Kester" Brand solder, and "Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape" and some heatshrink where needed. I've never had a problem with any of my connections under the hood or inside. I guess it's a preference choice. If you are not really good at soldering you should be able to handle crimp connections okay. Most automotive wiring isn't very flexible anyhow, so you should always secure your wiring connections so they don't have any extra stress on them.
Click to expand...

Good stuff - I use Kester as well. Scotch Super 33+ over 3M friction tape to seal the connection - you could immerse connections after I put them together. If I expect it to be weathered heavily, then it's cold-shrink over friction tape over Ox-Gard; or heat shrink over friction tape over Ox-Gard

Yeah, I'm picky as Hell about electrical. I've seen my share of electrical fires (and I've had to put out a couple,) so it makes me a bit paranoid... Once I find something that works well, I tend to stick with it.
 
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