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EGR Question

mpro1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY NY
After re-connecting and fixing my EGR valve and system i have been noticing a slight backfire right after shifting.......The engine has 210000 is very well maint. and freshly tuned up.......i ran it for years with the egr valve disconnected and never had this pop...also the cat has been gutted for like 10 years and i never had any backfire.....the thing always passed inspection with the gutted cat and the egr valve disconnected...... But i would notice on the inspection the nox levels were always close to the limits.....so i decided to replace and re connect the egr system........My question is should i just disconnect the egr system ?? or Do you guys think it is starting to develop other problems due to age and wear to cause this backfire?? ....I have notice some timing chain rattling that i have not fixed because i am still debating on re-power it or rebuilding ect....... What are your experiences running without egr system???
 
If you are having "timing chain rattleing" it could be the source of your slight backfire,(stretched chain gets "loose with out torque) although, the egr would be the first place I looked. Nice thing is... if there is a nice thing... its either one or the other.... good luck.
 
XJING said:
If you are having "timing chain rattleing" it could be the source of your slight backfire,(stretched chain gets "loose with out torque) although, the egr would be the first place I looked. Nice thing is... if there is a nice thing... its either one or the other.... good luck.


I will disconnect egr to see if the problem clears.......if it turns out that the timing chain is the cause i will live with it until i decide on my repower options as of now the backfire is not that bad....What do you think about possible faulty fuel injectors??? They are still original from 1990.....

Thanks
 
A typical fault for RENIX fuel injectors is leaking at the body seam - usually around 180Kmiles or so. Replace with Ford 302 units.

Running without the EGR isn't a problem - I only plug mine in when I have to go see the Air Police. Hell, engine runs cleaner without it anyhow (I've got smog reports around here somewhere that show it - the only "failure" was the EGR didn't work - but the emissions levels were all lower - including NOx. Riddle me that...)

Yes, it's also possible for a timing chain to stretch over time - but the typical "laminated" chain is usually good for about 300-400Kmiles. Rollers are good for even longer (they look like heavy-duty bicycle chains.) If you want to check for chain stretch, remove your distributor cap. Then, grab a 3/4" socket and a breaker bar - put the socket on the crankshaft nose screw, and turn the engine. If the rotor starts moving immediately, turn the engine the other way, and see how far you have to move the breaker bar to move the rotor. A few (<5) degrees is acceptable, more is a sign of stretch.

Put the dizzy cap back on and drive off.
 
5-90 said:
A typical fault for RENIX fuel injectors is leaking at the body seam - usually around 180Kmiles or so. Replace with Ford 302 units.

Running without the EGR isn't a problem - I only plug mine in when I have to go see the Air Police. Hell, engine runs cleaner without it anyhow (I've got smog reports around here somewhere that show it - the only "failure" was the EGR didn't work - but the emissions levels were all lower - including NOx. Riddle me that...)

Yes, it's also possible for a timing chain to stretch over time - but the typical "laminated" chain is usually good for about 300-400Kmiles. Rollers are good for even longer (they look like heavy-duty bicycle chains.) If you want to check for chain stretch, remove your distributor cap. Then, grab a 3/4" socket and a breaker bar - put the socket on the crankshaft nose screw, and turn the engine. If the rotor starts moving immediately, turn the engine the other way, and see how far you have to move the breaker bar to move the rotor. A few (<5) degrees is acceptable, more is a sign of stretch.

Put the dizzy cap back on and drive off.


Thanks for the tip i will check the chain for slack....based on the rattle i suspect that i will find some........The 302 ford injectors are 19lb correct?? I have heard that they are direct replacments....
 
mpro1 said:
Thanks for the tip i will check the chain for slack....based on the rattle i suspect that i will find some........The 302 ford injectors are 19lb correct?? I have heard that they are direct replacments....

Ayuh - straight swap. You can get a set of six from FiveOMotorsports (www.fiveomotorsports.com?) for about two bills - cheaper than direct aftermarket replacements at $60 a throw! I don't even know what they cost OEM, nor do I want to...
 
5-90 said:
Yes, it's also possible for a timing chain to stretch over time - but the typical "laminated" chain is usually good for about 300-400Kmiles. Rollers are good for even longer (they look like heavy-duty bicycle chains.) If you want to check for chain stretch, remove your distributor cap. Then, grab a 3/4" socket and a breaker bar - put the socket on the crankshaft nose screw, and turn the engine. If the rotor starts moving immediately, turn the engine the other way, and see how far you have to move the breaker bar to move the rotor. A few (<5) degrees is acceptable, more is a sign of stretch.

Put the dizzy cap back on and drive off.


According to the method you discribe i have about 12 degrees of "stretch"....it confirms what i already expected with the "rattle".......Thanks
 
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