questions about matinence on my 89 XJ???

1. best type of oil to use in summer?..i always have to put in a couple liters inbetween oild changes..i think its leaks not sure if it is burning oil..

2. should i change the radiator fluid? im worried if i get it flushed out it could damage the radiator..for all i know is the original radiator

3. importance of change transmission filter?

thanks

James

OK....start from the top (drivng an 89 XJ myself)

1. I run 10W-30, year round. Sometimes run 10W-40 in the summertime.....If you're chewing through oil quickly, and can't find a leak, you may be blowing it past the rings/valve guides. Yes it's a problem, yes you can still drive on it. People will tell you to run one oil additive or another...Personally?? I use Lucas Oil additive....comes in a quart jug (you can buy it by the gallon or whatever) This is what we used to use in the semi's to help stop oil consumption....It generally cuts consumption up to 50% in most vehicles I use it in.

2. You probably have the closed cooling system, being that 89 was a Renix Jeep. I would just keep an eye on that coolant bottle, make sure that the coolant level is high enough. Also use a tester to make sure that you have the right concentration. I don't think there's any problems with flushing these radiators....check with the dealer or a good Renix mechanic.

3. Change your tranny filter/fluid if it appears/smells to be dirty or "burnt". You can check this on the dipstick, or drain out a little fluid. I would change the filter every 50K miles or so, just like any other automatic, it will help with tranny life/operation. Research on the board here a bit more, I've seen several cases where the AW4 trannys we have don't like to be flushed out.....

RaccoonJoe said:

I would change the filter every 50K miles or so, just like any other automatic, it will help with tranny life/operation. Research on the board here a bit more, I've seen several cases where the AW4 trannys we have don't like to be flushed out.....

Click to expand...

Most automatics don't like a good flushing if they don't have a good service history. Mine would likely tolerate it fine, since it's been changed every year or 30K miles since I've owned it, and has never looked burnt. If the OP doesn't know the service history on his trans, a simple fluid change (not flush) would probably be ok - as a rule, the AW4 "takes a lot of killing".

Another quirk of the AW4 is that there seems to be a lot of individual response when it comes to using synthetic ATF - some units do fine with it, others slip incessantly until returned to dino juice. Mine has dined exclusively on dino, and since I have had no issues, it will continue on the "dino diet".

Rob

Something to keep in mind about multi-viscosity oil. For conventional oil, the multi-viscosity spread is achieved thru additives, usually polymers (little chains that curl and uncurl with temperature changes) that are susceptible to sheer and oxidation. So those additives give you good properties of multi-viscosity, but they can contribute to deposits/dirt in the engine and also degrade the oil as they wear out.

For that reason, its a very good suggestion to go with the smallest possible viscosity spread that you need for the conditions. 10W-30 is less likely to leave behind deposits and probably last longer than 10W-40 will under the same conditions.

But then again, if the conditions you drive in, actually require 10W-40 then 10W-40 is going to protect better than 10W-30, and your motor will be better off even if 10W-30 would leave behind slightly less deposits.

Thats why I believe an oil pressure gauge is so important to an vehicle. It will give you good indication as too whether your using the proper viscosity oil or NOT, and you can pick the proper viscosity oil for the conditions you operate the vehicle.

So if 10W-30 will meet your needs, its probably better to use it over 10W-40. If oil pressure is too low for a warm engine under load in the summer, then maybe 10W-40 is called for.

Flushing Radiator? What type of anti-freeze is in it now?? Conventional Green Anti-Freeze is recommended to be changed every 2 years. The anti-corrosion additives is the first to deplete in anti-freeze and rust and corrosion can form on the radiator and other parts and create problems. Flushing does NOT need to be Powerful or Harsh with chemicals. If there is nothing wrong with the cooling system, no deposits, no gunk, then simply drain it completely (that includes removing the plug in the engine water jacket and disconnecting a heater hose and blow/suck the coolant out of the heater. Then fill with distilled water and run the motor to circulate all the distilled water, it will have to warm up to open the thermostat, let all the fresh distilled water wash out anything left over. Drain fully again and fill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and anti-freeze.

Distilled water is sold at most supermarkets for $0.50 a gallon, its water with all the minerals removed, as close to pure water that you can practically get. Tap water usually has a lot of minerals in it, and those minerals boil out and form scale on the radiator and cooling system. So using distilled water keeps the cooling system clog free and working better longer.

Many manufacturers have now replaced their conventional GREEN anti-freeze with new Extended Life Universal Anti-Freeze. If you read the fine print, they say you have to completely drain the cooling system and flush it, before using this anti-freeze. Because its really Dex-Cool dyed green. There is a controversy if this actually good for your vehicle, the safest bet would be too use the old conventional anti-freeze you motor was designed for and change it every 2 years. Look for a green anti-freeze that is NOT extended life, and in the ingredients is list "SILICATES" and some form of "PHOSPHATE". That is the old green anti-freeze. So far, only Zerex still makes it, I've only found it still sold as a generic brand.

While your at it, you should replace the thermostat and pressure cap.

Rick,

Tell me more about this Dex-Cool stuff. I just checked my last bottle (my inventory) of antifreeze and sure enough it does not list silicates, it says 150,00 mile, 5 year extended.....life. It does list ethylene and di-ethylene glycol on the label. I did not realise it did not have silicates in this formula. I thought they had just chosen not to list it under ingredients (something I am use too, BS-MSDS data sheets, another story for another thread or forum).

I will check my vehicles to see if have any other partial containers left.

For what it is worth I have not flushed a cooling system of mine in 23 years. I have only drained and replaced coolant once every three years or so, usually while servicing something else like repacing a coolant hose somewhere that needed to be pulled to get to something else. And then I usually only drained what came out of the bottom radiator and bottom radiator hose. Then again I live in the hot, deep south. Regular change out may be more of an issue up north in colder climates?

Perhaps we should start a brand/formula/ antifreeze thread????

The 50/50 green prestone mix says it's goot for 150,000 miles.

I think the orange Dexcool by prestone is good for 200,000 miles?